pilninggas

usually crud in the carbs (typically for cylinder 1 or 2) or fuel levels too high. Take the carbs off and take the float bowls off - one at a time - what you will probably find is a small (can litterally be a speck) of muck which prevents the float valve shutting the fuel off. Seen it many, many times. ++++ introduce yourself over in the newbies section please ++++

Be very careful of these 'accident management' companies. They ensure in the contracts they offer that someone will pay. If it all goes pear shaped it WILL be you. I would steer clear. If you have union membership (i am NUT for example [yes they generally are a bunch of commies]), they may offer free general purpose legal advice - NUT is something like 1 hour free with a solicitor.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701300629

that's on one of ebay's most watched lists.......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4S_weEJwGNA

do you need to rejet? Is the idle off? Does the bike surge? Is it gutless in the middle? unless you have a problem it is not always necessary. Somewhere on WWW-land is a guide by mikuni and also a guide by FactoryPro about carb set-up. Being a 'custom' these things are far less of an issue than a sportsbike, which is under far greater load and therefore ttuning more critical. Last thing, if it really is a worry, find a local dyno and get it run, maybe the mains need up or down.

You need to see if anyone near-by witnessed it. Other than that you are gonna either have to fix it yourself or claim on your insurance if you have fully-comp. I would say nothing to the potential other party first and then look their vehicle over for corresponding damage etc, photograph with a good quality camera if you find any evidence. Good luck, i had this happen years ago, and got nowhere, fixed it myself with secondhand bits in the end.

just go on ebay or try wemoto. I bought a pair of new coils (pattern) off of the 'bay a couple of weeks ago for £14 each, then bought some ngk 12mm plug caps (also the 'bay). Fitted it all the other day, jobs a good 'un for under £40 all in. btw a car coil pack could work, but they are generally bulky etc.

there is a yzf-r125 forum, with some knowledgeable folks on there. On my occasional visits, there seem to be a range of quality pattern parts available and the links will be on that site. The engine is the similar as the india-market fz150. the guys over there also know their stuff (kevshek) If you need a rebore, don't forget to give your local motor engineers a call. a lot are way cheaper for reboring, than a motorcycle dealer (most of whom will send it off anyway). If you still can't sort a rebore google piston-broke bristol, he ain't cheap but he is good and can source most pistons.

i had a cyclone V2, and they are okay, but far too easily defeated. The sounder is a separate part and one cut of some 24 gauge wires and it is silenced. The immobiliser part is better, but there is no way i was connecting that, i've heard of immobilisers cutting the engine whilst people were in lane 3 of a busy motorway or mid-turn. Agree whole-heartedly on your last point.

You might find someone who will do it, but it is unlikely. Most alarm fitters will tell you they don't fit 'old' alarms of unknown history as they do not know if they will function correctly. Off the top of my head you cannot refit it yourself because all of the wires will be unmarked (correct me if i am wrong but the 357t all of the wires are black), the original fitter has labels on all of the wires which are removed as he installs it (so that thiefs cannot defeat it quite as easily). Google around there may be an answer somewhere, but Meta simply do not want a trade secret falling into thieves hands (pain in the arse for the rest of us) as it would destroy their business model and reputation. GL

Went into work this morning, the first class a lovely group of year 7s, so i wrote a note on the board before they came in: "Year 7, due to your poor behaviour you will not be doing Design Technology after Easter, instead you will be doing extra maths." they came in and sat quietly but they were all whispering and looking really disappointed, then one girl said "Sir's having us on, its April fools day today!", I had a good laugh. Then a science teacher sent a boy to me asking for a glass hammer, so i sent him back saying she could only have it if she could lend me some silk nails (kid absolutely none-the-wiser), some of my class sussed it though. Finally sent two girls to my colleague next door for a left-handed screwdriver, they came back fuming!

what about just leaving the engine idling whilst it's on the back? +++i would also ride it, far easier overall

bt 021, just not upto the jobber.

i found the bt 021 on my XJ6 rubbish, in the wet it was possible to hang the rear out with a touch off lean and in the dry it was a real bugger to get fully warmed up. If i still had mine i think i'd run diablo corsa. i was on my third rear when it got wrote-off, a maxxis which was ok grip-wise, but wearing quite quickly. btw barky, you are right do the tyres yourself if poss, you can then buy the tyre from a net/phone discounter and literally half the cost.

Have a good one Paul

an oil pressure lamp should be lit when the engine is not running, as the oil will have no pressure. It's a kind of safety check, if it is not illuminating at this time, it probably isn't going to illuminate when the engine does lose oil-pressure.

if it works, it'll last a long time. If it don't it'll be seconds! it should be fine. try connecting an 330 resistor/LED to a 12v source, before you build the rest of it (heck you could buy a couple of cheap red LEDs to be sure), and see if it's okay. If it is really bright, it will fail in seconds (unless it's a superbright LED of course). If that's okay the rest of the circuit (and the smoothing caps) should be fine.

The circuit ^^^ looks just the ticket i'd just stick a 330ohm resistor (x2) in series with the led anodes, i've never had a problem ballasting LEDs like this. If your concerned about the LED flickering a 1000microfarad (uF) electrolytic capacitor connected between the resistor/led-connection and the cathode of the LED should provide enough smoothing. Make sure it's rated for at least 40v (50V or 63V would be better and probably easier to get). - maplin should have some. Drewpy, procede with caution, as I am thinking this from my knowledge and not from direct testing.

Just to add, Wilkinson's do a much cheaper paint stripper than you will typically pay for nitro-mors and it seems to be the same concoction (cyanoacrylate). Of course as OG said, never on to be used plastic (there is a funny thread on another forum, out there on'tintanut about such an incident).

btw use a good voltmeter, personally a cheap digital one is better than an old moving coil (which may have been bumped or gone out of calibration)

Welcome Adam, might be worth putting a post in the noobs section to introduce yourself properly... ....do you have an alarm? if yes look there. If no alarm... To test whether you rectifier/regulator is working, check the battery voltage with the ignition off, should be 12.55/12.60ish volts (lower is not good, less than 12v is very bad and higher indicates a an overcharge problem- lead acid batteries 'memorise' their overcharge condition for some time after last being overcharged). Then run the engine, give it a few seconds at least, then check the voltage across battery should be between 13v and 15v, less than 13v means it probably ain't charging (reg/rect, wiring, generator), more than 15v (14.5v in some cases) will mean the rec/rectifier is overcharging and is goosed. The voltage should also be reasonably stable (providing the idle is stable). If at idle it checks ok, then check the voltages again at 4000rpm (some reg/recs only work at higher rpms, unlikely on a factory custom, but someone may have substituted parts over the years). Get this sorted and then if you have performance issues move onto that. HTH merv

looks nice'n'shiny. where is the place in your avatar?

I own an FZR1000 which has a similar engine. They are over-cooled, and so on a cold-day it is possible that it might not come off the gauge stop, which is still 60 degrees or similar. As for poor running some possibilities: Coils knackered and breaking down - the fact that it restarted badly shows this is possible. (spark plugs may also be fouled) Worn emulsion tubes (google it) making the mixture rich. or possibly sticking choke mechanism, as this gives similar results. Crank position sensor shot (not too likely). Of course it could be a few other things too. As for flat battery, is the battery new? it may well be knackered, but seem to hold charge some of the time. get yourself on the exup1000 forum if poss as the guys over there are very gen'd up on big-bore yam sportsbikes.

ruddy hell, that was quick