pilninggas

I had 2 RXS100s, the first (picked up on my 17th Birthday) I did more than 30,000 miles with (don't know how much more the odo broke). The second one i had was pants tho, never made as much power. Shocking front brake on them, totally not fit for purpose.

haha quality.

I am top of the league, say I am top of league. C'mon you Rovers, c'mon you blues.

each carb has a float bowl (you can remove them with the carbs on the bike, but it is a pig). Take the carbs off, flip them over and take the float bowls off once at a time. You may well see muck in the bowls (off course it may now be on the chamber ceiling, as the carbs are inverted. I usually clean these deposits with thinners, WD40, carb cleaner etc. Each float bowl chamber, will have a bank of floats, these are orange plastic (check each one for holes or damage as this will cause problems). Very carefully remove the float pivot pin (don't lose it!). Then ease the float out and the valve 'torpedo'. Clean those orifices (oh-er missus). My experience is that you will see specks in end of the hole that the 'torpedo' sits in, you can blast this away with WD40/straw. When reassembling, you must seat the float o-ring correctly - i always use a tiny, tiny amount of fairy liquid to ensure this happens. When playing with the floats you may put the float heights out, all I can suggest is to go very carefully and treat all the parts like they are made of gold leaf. You could of course set the float heights---- These carbs wear out badly, google fzr1000 emulsion tubes for a whole host of trauma. Tuning them is a real challenge, the ones on my EXUP have been off tons of times. At the moment I have my spare TDM carbs (the same type Mikuni CV downdraft), they are worn on the tubes (perceptible amounts of ovalling) and the float heights (fuel levels) were out. This all leads to rich running. Look at your exhaust is it sooty? If so the carbs are rich and may require work.

usually crud in the carbs (typically for cylinder 1 or 2) or fuel levels too high. Take the carbs off and take the float bowls off - one at a time - what you will probably find is a small (can litterally be a speck) of muck which prevents the float valve shutting the fuel off. Seen it many, many times. ++++ introduce yourself over in the newbies section please ++++

Be very careful of these 'accident management' companies. They ensure in the contracts they offer that someone will pay. If it all goes pear shaped it WILL be you. I would steer clear. If you have union membership (i am NUT for example [yes they generally are a bunch of commies]), they may offer free general purpose legal advice - NUT is something like 1 hour free with a solicitor.

http://forums.probetalk.com/showthread.php?t=1701300629

that's on one of ebay's most watched lists.......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4S_weEJwGNA

do you need to rejet? Is the idle off? Does the bike surge? Is it gutless in the middle? unless you have a problem it is not always necessary. Somewhere on WWW-land is a guide by mikuni and also a guide by FactoryPro about carb set-up. Being a 'custom' these things are far less of an issue than a sportsbike, which is under far greater load and therefore ttuning more critical. Last thing, if it really is a worry, find a local dyno and get it run, maybe the mains need up or down.

You need to see if anyone near-by witnessed it. Other than that you are gonna either have to fix it yourself or claim on your insurance if you have fully-comp. I would say nothing to the potential other party first and then look their vehicle over for corresponding damage etc, photograph with a good quality camera if you find any evidence. Good luck, i had this happen years ago, and got nowhere, fixed it myself with secondhand bits in the end.

just go on ebay or try wemoto. I bought a pair of new coils (pattern) off of the 'bay a couple of weeks ago for £14 each, then bought some ngk 12mm plug caps (also the 'bay). Fitted it all the other day, jobs a good 'un for under £40 all in. btw a car coil pack could work, but they are generally bulky etc.

there is a yzf-r125 forum, with some knowledgeable folks on there. On my occasional visits, there seem to be a range of quality pattern parts available and the links will be on that site. The engine is the similar as the india-market fz150. the guys over there also know their stuff (kevshek) If you need a rebore, don't forget to give your local motor engineers a call. a lot are way cheaper for reboring, than a motorcycle dealer (most of whom will send it off anyway). If you still can't sort a rebore google piston-broke bristol, he ain't cheap but he is good and can source most pistons.

i had a cyclone V2, and they are okay, but far too easily defeated. The sounder is a separate part and one cut of some 24 gauge wires and it is silenced. The immobiliser part is better, but there is no way i was connecting that, i've heard of immobilisers cutting the engine whilst people were in lane 3 of a busy motorway or mid-turn. Agree whole-heartedly on your last point.

You might find someone who will do it, but it is unlikely. Most alarm fitters will tell you they don't fit 'old' alarms of unknown history as they do not know if they will function correctly. Off the top of my head you cannot refit it yourself because all of the wires will be unmarked (correct me if i am wrong but the 357t all of the wires are black), the original fitter has labels on all of the wires which are removed as he installs it (so that thiefs cannot defeat it quite as easily). Google around there may be an answer somewhere, but Meta simply do not want a trade secret falling into thieves hands (pain in the arse for the rest of us) as it would destroy their business model and reputation. GL

Went into work this morning, the first class a lovely group of year 7s, so i wrote a note on the board before they came in: "Year 7, due to your poor behaviour you will not be doing Design Technology after Easter, instead you will be doing extra maths." they came in and sat quietly but they were all whispering and looking really disappointed, then one girl said "Sir's having us on, its April fools day today!", I had a good laugh. Then a science teacher sent a boy to me asking for a glass hammer, so i sent him back saying she could only have it if she could lend me some silk nails (kid absolutely none-the-wiser), some of my class sussed it though. Finally sent two girls to my colleague next door for a left-handed screwdriver, they came back fuming!

what about just leaving the engine idling whilst it's on the back? +++i would also ride it, far easier overall

bt 021, just not upto the jobber.

i found the bt 021 on my XJ6 rubbish, in the wet it was possible to hang the rear out with a touch off lean and in the dry it was a real bugger to get fully warmed up. If i still had mine i think i'd run diablo corsa. i was on my third rear when it got wrote-off, a maxxis which was ok grip-wise, but wearing quite quickly. btw barky, you are right do the tyres yourself if poss, you can then buy the tyre from a net/phone discounter and literally half the cost.

Have a good one Paul

an oil pressure lamp should be lit when the engine is not running, as the oil will have no pressure. It's a kind of safety check, if it is not illuminating at this time, it probably isn't going to illuminate when the engine does lose oil-pressure.

if it works, it'll last a long time. If it don't it'll be seconds! it should be fine. try connecting an 330 resistor/LED to a 12v source, before you build the rest of it (heck you could buy a couple of cheap red LEDs to be sure), and see if it's okay. If it is really bright, it will fail in seconds (unless it's a superbright LED of course). If that's okay the rest of the circuit (and the smoothing caps) should be fine.

The circuit ^^^ looks just the ticket i'd just stick a 330ohm resistor (x2) in series with the led anodes, i've never had a problem ballasting LEDs like this. If your concerned about the LED flickering a 1000microfarad (uF) electrolytic capacitor connected between the resistor/led-connection and the cathode of the LED should provide enough smoothing. Make sure it's rated for at least 40v (50V or 63V would be better and probably easier to get). - maplin should have some. Drewpy, procede with caution, as I am thinking this from my knowledge and not from direct testing.

Just to add, Wilkinson's do a much cheaper paint stripper than you will typically pay for nitro-mors and it seems to be the same concoction (cyanoacrylate). Of course as OG said, never on to be used plastic (there is a funny thread on another forum, out there on'tintanut about such an incident).

btw use a good voltmeter, personally a cheap digital one is better than an old moving coil (which may have been bumped or gone out of calibration)