R1evad

OG is right, just drain it out cold and fill back to the correct level with the bike UPRIGHT,..... NOT on the side stand. Either put it on a paddock stand, or get someone to sit astride it holding it up while you refill. Dont do anymore high rev riding till you sort it out coz you will be maxing out your visa card if you do too much

YOSHI

YOSHIMURA TRS

Having said all that, my money will be on sticky float needles, runs long enough to suck the bowls dry, then the restricted flow starves the motor till it dies. Wait a while for the bowls to refill and it`ll run like a good`un till the cycle is repeated. You should move to somewhere really hilly, then you can power up the hill and fill the float bowls while you coast down the other side and so on. A bit like a "Rolls Can`Ardly" but in reverse!

Hi There ReBorne, something else to consider when testing your fuel system, esp. as you say the bike been resprayed. Have you unmasked the breather pipes / holes to vent the tank again. If you run a bike, (or any engine come to that) you have to replace the volume of fuel drawn from the tank with air, or you will create a vacuum in the tank and (especially with gravity fed machines) the fuel cannot get down the pipe(s) to the carbs. Next time you test, run the bike stationary till it cuts out, then pull the pipe off the tap or carb feeder pipe, If fuel flows, you have a carb problem if it doesn`t you may have caused a vacuum. With the pipe still off open the tank lid, if she flows, the prob is definitely a venting one. (you will also probably hear a sucking of air sound as you open the lid) Just a thought, I bugger all idea which way round your tap works though

ER...If we all go out riding, then we will be burning more juice ........And HMG will be pocketing more TAX WE need to cloc the roads up with horses and steam engines!!

If the plate is all on one line it is a definite nick, (£30 and a correction note, so you will be down your local mot centre for a viewing) Not endorsable though, as it is a construction and use offence. You are more likely to get away with a small two line plate, so long as it is spaced and set out evenly. Misrepresent the digits though and it is possible to be prosecuted for attempting to pervert the course of justice if it can be shown you have committed another offence and cannot be readily identified by your reg plate (small plates can still be read by ANPS Readers if they are in the correct format). So get stopped for speeding accross the double whites with a plate that cannot be auto read, with a "race use only" end can and tyres that say "not for use on the public highway" and you WILL go to jail without passing "go" and £200 wont cover it, .........................Will it KIM?

Pick me up on the way round, I like a bit of recovery work

If you are not trying to gain loads of power, just keep the original downpipes / collector / exup, and fit a nice looking end can. Whatever floats your boat and fits your budget. (make sure your Exup is working ok, or the thing will run like a miss firing twin!) I had an ART carbon round can on mine, looked and sounded awsome but was too load for Nurburgring. came out at 110 dBa have a look about on ebay, you could find something nice fairly cheaply. Keep the original can for MOT`s though, unless you buy a removable baffle E marked item. Yoshis always look and sound nice, They do a removeable baffle road legal TRS now. The quality cannot be beaten I`m running Twins on my R1 now, they are top notch!

They work best with a standard set of headers / Exup collector. End cans that freeflow are ok, but you will need to spend some time on a dyno and fit a Dynojet kit to get any noticeable performance gains. It is easier to make it worse than better on the 750 because it is already fairly well tuned as standard. My `97 model made 3bhp more (119) than my mates `95 893 Fireblade. (116) at the back wheel, when were both completely standard.

Set up a small camera to a cheap (Tescos £30) video recorder. Once you have some video evidence, trawl the local Chav haunts looking for the toerag, when you track the Sh!7forbains down "Explain" why it is not a good idea to revisit the aforementioned shed. Then offer to pay for his taxi to casualty! Luckily we have four Police personnel in our immediate family, and are well known to the local ne`er do wells, who prefer to give our area a wide berth. You need to team up with your neighbors, and more importantly their children, to get your area known as a zero tolerance zone. Forget all the NW. stuff, teenagers passing the word is far better

Right where do we start! Check all the obvious stuff, Tyres Chain, untoward noises, CLUTCH SLIP (don`t use fully synthetic oil unless running a EBC paper clutch) And general condition etc. Check all the mileages on all the MOT`s to make sure they rise steadily and not 12k between one year and 200miles between all the rest I had the HAYNES MANUAL `97 red white and black bike for a few years and it was a stonker. And really good fun at the `Ring! A fit standard one will produce 115/120 ponies on a dyno and the frame and suspension, if in good nick, will handle that well enough. (The same basic frame was used with the 1002cc exup engine on the Thunderace) If the front end damping is a bit sloppy, the usd forks respond quite well to 15w oil instead of the standard 10w. They are solid reliable busses, but as with anything that old, the individual example you are looking at has a unique history, so ask LOTS of questions. EVERY 2nd hand bike you view has been stolen, raced, crashed, is on finance and is just about to blow up, until proven otherwise! Things to look for specifically on this model. If it is a `94 model it should have a switch on he left side fairing panel for fuel reserve, Make sure it is working ok and connected up. you do not want to be running in the reserve position all the time, as when you run out you will be walking. Exup valves are known to get sticky, but more importantly make sure the servo motor fires when you turn the ignition on. It is just inside the frame rail under the base of the tank on the right hand side. You should hear it whining. At the same time check to see the cables that run to the exup are moving freely. With the rear seat off, you should find a little lever to release the rider seat, pull that and take the rider seat off. check all the electrics under the seat and the battery. After market exhausts rarely gain power on this model and more often spoil the flow, especially if the exup is removed / not working. There is a lot of valve overlap on a five valve head and back pressure is critical. Make sure you have a road legal can for MOT`s The standard six pot callipers are good when they are looked after, but like a lot of yams of that era are not keen on being neglected after a winters layup, especially if stored wet / salty. They do free up fairly easily, but are a bit more fiddley to do than the larger pistons found on four pot versions. Speedo cables can work loose at the hub end ad result in a clicking jumpy speedo needle, or a complete non runner. If left to run notchy, the inner cable gets damaged, but is simple to replace. My `97 had about 20k on it when I sold it and used to go through about a litre of oil every 1000 miles, but never blew smoke, They just "use"it. Should be ok as long as there are no oily deposits in the exhaust end pipe, and no puddles under the machine. If it blows blue smoke at any time, cold or hot, you will be sending off for a new visa card! POLISHED FRAMES. There is usually only one reason to polish a frame / swingarm and that is to remove evidence of some form of damage. Same with frame protectors, which usually go on AFTER the accident to cover it up, not before. SEE ABOVE Having said that, some people genuinely like the effect and are happy to spend hours needlessly buffing up the frame, rather than riding the bike What does the rest of the bike look like in the flesh, if it is polished all over and you can eat your dinner off the engine casings, then it`s maybe genuine. Your HPI check will tell if it has had a major. Test ride CHECK THE TYRE PRESSURES BEFORE YOU GO 36psi/2.5bar FRONT. 42psi/2.9bar REAR. It will handle like a pig if hey are too low. Esp the front. The standard front discs are known to warp if have had heavy track day type use. Easily spotted on your road test as a pulsing (ABS like) feeling through the lever. If it has after market discs, then that`l be why. (budget £300 to replace and negotiate accordingly) Ride the bike on a dead straight smooth road,(at a decent legal pace) and gradually relax your grip on both bars till you are hovering your hands a few millimeters away. as the bike starts to slow down, see that it runs straight, and doesn`t try to "shimmy" or shake it`s head. (Twisted/bent forklegs, yokes) Also feel for any fore and aft movement in the bars when comming on the gas and the braking. (headrace bearings) All in All keep your eyes and ears well and truly open, and buy it if you are happy. A decent YZF ridden hard like it was meant to be, will bring a big smile to your face, and you will still have some low down grunt for pootling about. They don`t need to be screamed about like the 600`s of the day, and is its pretty comfortable too, so you should be sorted for some long distance stuff. I loved mine, but was seduced by a tidy MkI Fireblade, which is another story altogether! Keep us posted

Try having a go at starting it, then take a plug out to see if it is wet. If it is you have probably got stale juice, try emptying the tank and putting some nice fresh stuff in. If the plug is dry, you`ve probably got gummed up carbs, like DAVE.C. says. Float bowls off and liberal sprayings of aerosol carb cleaner will probably sort it, but you might have to take `em apart and clean the bits individualy.

Ouch, And I thought I had it bad with a three piece collar bone Does that lot set the scanners off at the airport I bet they have fun trying to find where you`ve hidden it

If you want to find out how far you can lean, SAFELY. Do a trackday so you can concentrate on going round the same set of bends, slightly faster each pass with no lorries or cars coming the other way. The keith Code California race school is all about cornering confidence, you will soon lean what feedback is all about and be wearing out the edges before the middle is even touched! You could always try a sportier profile, softer compound tyre, The pointier the profile the more rubber on the ground at the same lean angle, so you are closer to the edge without being too much further over. Metzeler Racetecs 120/70 K1 front and 190/55 K2 rear. Just dont try it on a cold damp day Coz they get twitchy.

Sounds like a good idea. If I cant get tickets to the BSB at Snett, I`ll see ya there!

You can get brake cleaner from any motor factor or Halfords etc. Use this and you can do your callipers and discs without the fear of contaminating your pads and causing a braking catastrophy

Another Blinding weekend of fast laps an FOG! (not at the same time you understand) Took the bikes in the van on the Chunnel £98 return. Met a couple of Yam riders touring through the region with a tractor rider and one of the Suz**£! thingys! I would recommend the Berghotel Hohe Acht. FRANK a really nice guy, who speaks pretty good English and appreciates you having an attempt at the old Sprechen sie Deutsch. (never said I could did I) http://hohe-acht.com Ready to go! Heres some we met earlier. AFTER the mist had lifted Nice of Roman to join us at the table! ITS NOT THAT WAY UP ON PHOTOBUCKET

Hi there B. BEFORE YOU SPEND MONEY ON A REPLACEMENT SET OF CLOCKS......See below. The Rev counter is `lectric, but the speedo / odo are run off the front wheel by cable. Make sure it is tightly screwed in both ends and that it is firmly "home" in each take up socket. it is well known that they can come loose and the speedo runs slow or packs up altogether. Also if the front wheel has been out, make sure the spacers and drive hub are all lined up properly and the tabs are located correctly. The YZF cable driven clocks are virtually bomb proof (unless been tampered with), it is almost always the cable or drive hub thats to blame. Good luck

`Sfunny how people come FROM Slough, but no one ever GOES there Hi y`all, only kidding, I love the smell of Mars bars cooking!!!

http://photobucket.com

Yes, especially as they have just effectively killed the feedback process. You cannot haul any one over the coals anymore, the strongest complaint you can make is a decline to leave a positive Any body want a cheap ebay account, I have one I don`t want any more!!

You will find it is not the track thats the problem, itis being out of your depth that will get you. Dosn`t matter where you go, without proper instruction and a structured leaning curve, you can bin it anywhere. It is the same as riding on the road, if you ride what you can see and gain some experience, you can build up speed later. Just don`t go out with "the nutters", er I mean experienced progressive riders, until you are confident enough to hold your own. You will be doing fast laps of the Nurburgring in no time

ER,.............. on a 2006 R1 (or any other 5VY model) there is only 1 Allen bolt at the front, and you have to take the two knee panels off to gain access to the two bolts (1 each side) that attach the tank to the frame. THEN you can tackle the rear mount removal to access the battery. If you have an alarm fitted (like a Datatool 3 or 4) you will need to supply a constant feed to the + and - connections other wise you are going to need a hearing test afterwards, I SAID HOWS YOUR HEARING Get, beg, borrow or otherwise a "jump start" pack, or battery and leads, and connect a temporary supply to the battery leads BEFORE you undo the terminal bolts. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START THE BIKE IN THIS CONDITION AS YOU WILL MOST LIKELY FRY SOMETHING EXPENSIVE The supply is just there to fool the alarm.

De ja vue?