XSwheels

I don't know for sure, but it is likely any XS wheel would fit. There are a lot of parts that all XS's shared. You may have to alter the spacer and of course you will need a brake stay for the hub. You can likely bolt it to the boss on the caliper hanger. You need a lever and cable also. Try offering a trade on this forum.

Hold on here, I disagree. You don't have a C model. What you have is a 360D. The360C is for year 1976. In 1977 the 360 came in two forms, 360D and 3602D. The 2D was an economy model without electric start and disc brake. Drewpy did say he was tired when he answered your post.

Hey your XS looks good, you only need two things. First a new seat cover, then obviously a new wife.

I don't know for sure, but it is likely under the tank and behind the carbs. Probably attached to the front of the battery box via a rubber attachment.

I got a chuckle when he said he rode the bike without a seat and it didn't bother him. IMHO it's a $350 bike.

Hello mles and welcome to our forum. Try this.

When you find a new cam chain, find a new mechanic.

Check your air filter. Make sure the air box is not filled with debris and the filter material is not clogged.

You have an XS400 Maxim. There is an XS400R Seca.

Second gear can be a problem on this model. There is however a cheap fix that involves shims, I believe.

On these '70's XS360/400's a no charge condition is common. Your pilot jets could be plugged too.

First off you have to get rid of the notion that having something newer and bigger is somehow more cool. It sounds like your 360 is giving you good service and you say it is fun to ride. You should stick with it. The attraction to this bike is the coolness of riding a 32 year old bike and the adventures you have with it. Sure, to most, it has typical bland styling, but have you recognized the unique slab sided styling on your XS? I have a '77 XS360 that I bought as a project in the winter and it will be ready to ride next summer. I usually license two bikes. I have a newer cooler bigger bike to ride, but I am more looking forward to riding my XS360 next summer and so should you.

Hello and welcome to our forum. The 180 Yamaha, I believe, was called the YCS1. In Canada we didn't care for Yamahas' numerical model designations, so it was labeled a Bonanza as well. In the late sixties they were quite popular around here. Do you have the roadster or the high pipe version?

Hello and welcome to our forum. If your 360 is a 1972 then it is a RT2. The 1973 model would be a RT3. I don't remember too much about them, but I had a new one in 1973. If it is leaking badly, you are right to suspect the seals. Clean up the area around the shift seal, kick start seal, and the countershaft seal and monitor them closely for leaks.

Reconnect your rectifier and leave it alone. You may already have done enough damage.That goes for anything else that is bolted to your battery box. Your rectifier's job is to convert the alternator's AC volts to a battery friendly DC volts.

I agree, it is an XS3602D from 1977. It is the economy model with wire wheels and drum brakes.

I too have a 100/90 in fact it is the same brand you have on your bike now. I agree, if you go wider you will have to notch or remove your chain guard. Remember that if you squeeze a larger tire on your stock rim, the tread will become more rounded and leave you with a smaller contact patch. Your sidewall will also flex more.

Here's another one. 10 bucks and no bids. XS360 on Ebay

You can shorten your existing throttle cable yourself, you have nothing to loose. Cut your cable at the carb end so you leave the adjuster alone. Measure the desired length and remove the cable. Put some solder on the exposed cable near the nipple so when you snip it it will not unravel. You can buy replacement nipples or you can try and save yours. Lightly heat the nipple and pull out the old cable. Be careful here, too much heat and the nipple will melt. Another option is to drill out the old cable. With a new fine hacksaw blade cut the outer sheath to the desired length. File the burr. Pull off the metal ferule at the cable end, and reinstall it to your new length. Once again melt solder to the inner cable and snip it at the desired length. Solder the cable to the nipple and you are done. BTW silver solder works best, but I have had success with regular solder, especially on throttle cables which have a lighter pull.

Try this, Permatex stripped thread repair. It works surprisingly well. You mix a two part compound to cover the damaged threads, apply a release agent to your bolt and simply thread the bolt back in. Wait a few minutes and remove the bolt. Allow the compound and new threads to cure and voila, new threads.

Resist the temptation of taking a drill to your carb. The tips are a taper fit and no way could you drill them out without damage. They are stuck in there from corrosion. I would immerse the passage in a solution of acetone and automatic transmission fluid at a 50:50 ratio. Don't let the solution come in contact with anything rubber or the acetone portion will destroy it. The ATF will work its way past the taper end and the acetone thins it out to ease penetration. Let it soak for a few hours and try safely pushing out the stuck pin from the inside. If you have to, let it soak until you are successful.

Go to your kitchen and get a spoon. Scrape the piston tops; combustion chamber ,valve faces, exhaust ports. The spoon will not scratch things and will remove the heavy carbon. You can finish up with a nylon scrub pad. Install an old spark plug to protect the threads and keep the crap out of your good plug. Clean the exhaust pipe with a drill mounted wire wheel.

I had to replace my voltage regulator in my 1977 XS360 and I know that Bralkan just replaced his. Is it just a coincidence that others also have charging problems? Now I realize these bikes are 25 to 35 years old, so maintenance and replacement is required, but is the VR as common a replacement for the XS as it is for the same year Suzuki GS series? The 70's and early 80's GS Suzuki is famous for its regulator/rectifier failures. History has proven the XS360/400 to be pretty good bikes but is it possible the regulator is the one common failure on these bikes?

If you do a lot of short trips especially in cool weather, condensation can form in your oil cap in the form of a milky foamy residue. Change your oil and see if the foam goes away. Closely monitor your antifreeze level to determine if you are loosing coolant. If the level lowers and you don't have an external leak, then you should consider coolant migrating into your oil. The water pump seal would be a likely culprit especially at 42,000 miles.

Here is something to consider. Manifold Repair