billa65t

Hi there, as far as i am aware the only differences between the early and later models was cosmetic so you should have no problem useing a later model swingarm on your model

Hi there, I take it that when you changed the timing your talking about the valve timing have you checked the ignition timing to make sure its firing on the compression stroke ?

Hi There, dont know the spec's for your model but why not just get a vernier gauge and just measure your fork tubes to see weather they are 26 or 27 mill?

Hi there, yes you should be able to see down the middle of your jet,try soaking it in petrol overnight then blowing it out it might be blocked with petrol varnish ?

Hi Nick, Don't know exactly what set up your've got on your bike but as a rule of thumb for a standard airbox and pipe the clip usually goes on the middle slot then its just a case of tuning the carb to get the best results for your bike if you have standard jets in your carb? hope this helps Bill

Hi there, if none of the other tips help check the wireing where it goes round the headstock because it sounds like you might have a wire shorting out to earth when you turn,Look on the inside of the wireing loom where it touch's the frame to see if it's rubbed the insulation off?

Hi there, from the sounds of things it sounds like a selector shaft problem, the selector shaft is a shaft within the gearbox with a U shaped bracket attached which sits in between the gears and engages and disengages the gears ! there is more than just one of these and they are moved by the selector shaft drum which is cylindrical and has slots cut out of it in diffferent area's which the selector shafts are plugged into? unfortunatly untill you take it apart and have a look at it and maybe take some photo's I cant give you any more advice hopefully when you take it apart it will be clearly visable? Hope this helps Regards Bill

Hi Ryan, usually if your carb needs to be rejetted the manufacturer of the pipe will tell you and recommened what size jet to put in ! But on most occasions unless your also changing your filter like putting on a K&N you don't need to? but as a general rule you should up your main jet by 10% then it's just trail/ error and adjustment to get it running properly Hope this helps you Regards Bill

Hi Dell, if you can remove the exup valve then you must be able to release it ! otherwise there are usually spare ones on e-bay ? anyway if you do decide to remove it you would also have to disconnect the motor that opens and closes the exup valve which is located under the tank on the right hand side of the frame ( just trace the cable back from the exup valve ) Regards Bill

Hi there, normally the easiest way is just to fit the twin disc front wheel as long as its the same size and the other caliper and brake line ! as normally the other fork leg as already got the holes for the other caliper fitted already? Regards Bill

Hi there, Not good news it sounds like your thundercat is suffering from a worn gearbox most likely worn selector forks and bearings !!! now unless you are going to do this yourself it is probably going to be very expensive not so much the price of the parts but the price of the labour to remove and strip the motor/gearbox and replace the worn parts?? Before you go any further i would recommend that you take you bike to a reputable dealer and get an expert opionion on the cost of putting it right, and then maybe consider buying a damaged - repairable or just another motor and swapping them over? good luck and think positive

Hi there, yes you can use the carb with the plugged post it shouldn't make any difference to the running of your bike . your original carbs must be off a UK or europeon spec bike as the jet is a mixture screw and adjustable ! where as the carbs that you have just aquired are US spec ones and the mixture screw has been blanked off to stop it being tamperd with to comply with federal laws? You could if you really wanted to carefully drill out the plug so that you could adjust the mixture but unless you have altered the carbs,airfilter, or exhaust from standard ther should be no need .

Hi Mark from the sound of things it sounds more like you have poor compression either due to worn or damaged rings! when it's cold and you try and start it you are not turning the mtor over fast enough for it to draw in fuel due to the worn or damaged rings but when you bump start it you're turning the motor over that much quicker. When its warm everything has expanded enough to give you decent compression therefore it starts? if you have access to a compression tester see what reading you get and check this with your dealer then you will have a better idea what is wrong Hope this of use to you Regards Bill

Hi Alex, since you have gone this far you may as well remove the carbs and give them a clean ! start by disconnecting the throttle and choke cables followed by the fuel and overflow pipes,next step is to remove the carbs from the bike either by undoing the jubilee clips that hold the carbs to the outlet tract rubbers or the jubilee clips that hold the rubbers to the cylinder head , whichever is the easiest. Place the carbs on the workbench bearing in mind that fuel will drain out of them once you turn them upside down? start by removing the float bowl on No 1 carb and clean any sediment out of it next remove the fuel float and fuel needle and blow out the fuel passage followed by the main jet and the idle jet. do these one at a time and make sure that they are clear of any petrol varnish residue ( blow out with a low pressure air line ) All holes should be clear to see through ! There should be a screw on the very bottom of the carb as you look at the float bowl that is the air/mixture screw this is sprung loaded, before you remove this one, screw it in untill it makes contact counting how many turns it takes usually about 2 to 2 and a half then remove it and blow out the passage way.when you reinstall it remember to screw it all the way in then screw it out the right amount of turns. Refit all the above in reverse order then carry out the same prcedure on each of the other carbs in turn. Refit your carbs to your bike check your fuel lines for any residue and if you find any replace the fuel lines as if you dont all the work you have just done will be pointless because as soon as you run clean fuel through these lines this residue will be carried straight back into the carbs and gum them up again! If you have an inline fuel filter replace this as well Good luck and happy rideing

Hi there, Chances are that it is something pretty basic that has gone wrong ! 1 check the throttle cable to make sure it is sitting in the top of the carb properly and any other housings. 2 make sure you havn't screwed the throttle stop screws in to far on the side of the carbs 3 check to make sure that the throttle slides are not stuck half way up the carb body 4 check that there are no air leaks between the carb and the cylinder head ( carbs are sitting properly in the rubbers) Chances are that it is one of the above that is causing your problem

Hi there from the sound of it you have a duff coil , if you have a Haynes manual you should be able to check the primary and secondary resistence of you coil to see if it is duff ? if your not sure how to do this the other way to check you coil is to swap the coils and the leads over ( dont forget to swap the wires supplying the coils ) and then see if you have a spark at 1 & 4 if you have you know you coil has had it If you still dont have a spark chances are your cdi unit has had it ?

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Hi Dill, First make sure you haave he right wattage/voltage bulb,next It is either one of two things ! either you have a bad earth which is arching out ( check all earth leads are clean and tight ) or your regulator/ rectifier is toast which is more likely. Best way to check is to put a voltmeter across the battery then fire the bike up, if the voltmeter shows more than 14.6 volt when you rev it then you regulator/rectifier has had it. hope this helps you sort it out cheers Bill

Hi there, even if there was to much oil in the gearbox it shouldn't leak past the oilseal if you remembered to renew it? it sounds more like you have a leak in the crankcase seal on the engine caseings ! being as 2 strokes work on crankcase pressure if the mating surfaces arn't joining perfectly then the gearbox will get pressureised and the oil will be forced out of the easiest escape route, sorry to be the bearer of bad news but if this is the case then you will have to strip the motor again and check the mating surfaces to make sure they are flat with no burrs or marks in them then put back together again not forgetting to put some jointing paste on all mating surfaces. Good luck Bill

Hi there, check the wattage of the bulbs that are fitted in your blinkers to make sure that they are correct and also your led markers? because if the resistance is too high eg your bulbs are ment to be 12 V -5w and they are 12V-10W then you will have too much resistance in the circuit and this will stop them from flashing !

Sounds very much like a coil breakdown, if you can next time it happens swap the coil leads and the wires for the coils over and see if the cylinder affected changes ? ifnit does you will know its the coil and you can change it! if it does'nt you are looking at coil pick ups or cdi unit ??

Hi there, It could be that the HT lead has broken down but also that the coil itself has broken down on No 1 cylinder.Best way to check is if the HT leads are detatchable to swap the lead over with one that is working,if it still doesn't fire on No 1 then you know it is the coil that is duff

Hi there, dont panic, the thing is with brake/clutch fluid is that it absorbs water, that is why it is recommended that it should be changed every two years. This is the reason that sometimes when you strip down master cylinders or brake calipers you find rust around the pistons or seized parts! Try warming up the mastercylinder and pipes with a hot air gun or hairdrier first to see if that makes a differance, the piston in the cylinder might just be stuck, a bit of heat and a slight tap may free it off? once freed off you should replace the fluid and bleed the system.if your garage gets cold replace the fluid with new silicon fluid which does not absorb moisture and should stop this problem happening again. Good luck!!

Hi there, have you checked the HT lead to make sure it is good and there is no break in the wire ? If it is ok the primary resistance should read between 1.8-2.2 ohms at 20 degrees C (grey wire & red/white wire for cylinders 2&3) secondary resistance should be between 9,600 to 14,400 ohms at 20 degrees C Hope this helps you get back on the road