bralkan

hah, that is awesome.

Anyone have any experience with these? I think it is a '78. A buddy just picked one up and I am just trying to learn some info.

not to imply anything, but as far as I know there is no off position on the stock petcocks. It is reserver, run, and prime. Prime will allow free flow of fuel. Parts can be found on ebay, partsnmore.com, mikesxs.com, and you can also try oldbikebarn.com as far as electronic ignition goes, it may take some re-wiring but you may be able to get an electronic ignition from a 1980+ xs and replace it....not sure though.

hmm, I may have to look at a few things then. Mine is peppy when warm but its maxing out around 75ish. The engine does have 23k miles on it....and it was in ruff shape; still is.

Best bet - http://www.files.pioneerx.co.uk/index.php?...Files/XS360-400

One of my float bowl drain screws has rounded edges on it. I should be able to get it off but I can't tighten it anymore and a bit of gas leaks out over time (very very slow). Anyways, I need to replace the screws. I looked on mikexs, and while these say fits stock 38mm (stock xs400 is 34, right?), they look like the right drain plugs. It is Part #48-0779 on this page: http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-fuel_system...category_id=4.2 They have screws for stock 34mm carbs but they do not look like the plugs on my carbs. Thanks.

Just loosen that screw on the top, to the right of the mounting plate. That end of the tach should just pull out of the top.

It would take a proper engineer, but I would think you could drill out at least some. I am a rock climber and some of the gear has this done, now by the manufacturer, to lighten the gear. It doesn't reduce the soundness of the structure. You would just have to really do some hard core engineering.

I didn't even notice that. I wonder how much lighter it actually makes the wheels.

Yep, just take the cam cover and ignition module off and you can get to that seal. Only really need to be sure you loosen and tighten the bolts in the right order. It is diagramed in the guide posted around on the forum. Should take you only an hour or less. You will need a torque wrench to re-tighten the cover back on.

That is neat. I wish I had the tools and was a bit more mechanically inclined.

I'd be interested.

Do you suggest on doing the .25 as opposed to the .50 or 1.0 ? All of the rings and pistons on there for these 2nd and 4th overbore size have 2 available. Oh, and a pic of the bike. I've done what I can to make it look nicer... need to get some more of that black paint off it and perhaps get new / stock exhaust (no idea why the guy who had it put glass packs on it; sounds alright though!). It is amazing how much of a difference a new-non-ripped seat will make.

This fine sunday morning (actually, the weather kinda sucks) I rode it down the street and back a few times and got the engine nice and hot. When I parked it it smoked a bit, but not a lot. Not as bad as when i put the new plug in and it only came out of the exhaust pipe and not out of the exaust port on the cylinder (like it was at the start of this thread). Maybe the new plug is getting sooty and not sparking as well??? (I could take it out and check, but that chamber needs helicoil inserts and I am hesitant in fear of further damage of the threads) ANYWAYS, I put the air filters back on....and I don't know what it was - the stuff my friend's dad and I did, the filters, or what but the bike hauled ass. I couldn't get into 4th gear (Speed limt only 35!!). It also fixed the backfiring problem. I work on computers, doing so for the past 8 years (I am 23) and the more and more I work with them I swear there are ghosts in the machine (they do craazy shit they shouldn't). I am starting to think this bike is posessed...Its been a crazy ride restoring it these 6 months, and it still has more to go. But, as always, I appreciate the help I have gotten from this forum. It has been priceless. I may look into getting it overbored if not only to fix the burning oil problem but to get a bit more power out of the bike. Riding today it feels like more than enough power for me. I am not sure how much hps i'd get from the overbore. I can't find a pair of 1.mm or .75mm overbore, so I'd have to go with .25 or .5mm. Anyways, any advice on getting it overbored? The other option is to just ride the bike into th ground

too true on the rings. But, I still have the problem of sourcing new rings. The best I have found is a used piston with rings on it. I think I'd rather just get the overbored pistons and have a shop get that all straightened out. If nothing else, I've learned a good bit (if by no other reason than I keep screwing up!). This has been the first time I have done any mechanical work beyond changing oils and headlights.

Alright, well once again I have proven my self... Tensioner blade was backwards. NO idea how that happened. I blame it on my buddy who was helping me... Anyways, bike is still burning oil. I guess the only thing it can be is a broken piston ring. THe left side fouls the plugs reaaaal quick. I replace the plug, lots of RPMS come back but so does the oil. Also, It is back firing (through the carbs; mostly / exclusivly right side) like crazy as well. I do not know if it is because the air filters are not on there, its cold, or what. But it wasn't doing it before. It tends to like the higher RPMS as well; idle or any low RPMS and the bike has problems. I re-adjusted the valves (had my friend dad do that who is a mechanic), so it shouldn't be those (they were not really out of adjustment anyways. I am looking at ebay for pistons / rings...unfortunatly it looks like the only ones available are for overbore. Which is fine, I can get it overbored, but eh.... !

I can't check at the moment, but do the guides describe how to balance the carbs? I am pretty sure it goes over setting the valves.

No, I did not. I noted it in the manual but I had an extra set of hands and just had them hold it in place as I torqued the larger bolts in. I had looked at the blades and they appeared ok. but then again, I am not 100% sure on what I am looking for. I am going to try and get home early enough to take the cover off and check out what is going on.

Alright, I got it. It was a timing issue (i am a dumbass). Anyways, after I put it together the dowl on the vice-bolt of the kick start broke and I couldnt' start it (Lever obviously wasn't going to work and I have a bad starter motor). New lever came in today and I put it on. Bike started up but the engine was "Rattling". I assume its the cam chain? Does it have to be renewed or do I need to increase the tension on the tensioner blade? (I had left it as it was). It will be this weekend before I can get the cover off again and check it out. SO, any ideas? Thanks, as always.

Anyone worked on these? They seem pretty simple. A neighbor has one pretty cheap and I may pick it up to have a 2nd. But, the guy says the spark isn't getting any current and is probably a wiring thing. Are coils for these pretty easy to find? I am thinking it could be that or the condenser. I am going to look around but I thought I would go ahead and throw a post up... I did some searches and most of the posts had dead ends.... http://images.craigslist.org/0101060102050...1b61a00ff75.jpg Looks like a dt100? I feel an addiction coming on....

What did you use for the reflector?

Could it be a timing issue?

Well, I found some coils but they are all 40-100 $$. How interchangeable are coils?

Anyone worked on these? They seem pretty simple. A neighbor has one pretty cheap and I may pick it up to have a 2nd; maybe get the girlfriend try it out. But, the guy says the spark isn't getting any current and is probably a wiring thing. Are coils for these pretty easy to find? I am going to look around in a minute but I thought I would go ahead and through a post up... I did some searches and most of the posts had dead ends.... http://images.craigslist.org/0101060102050...1b61a00ff75.jpg Looks like a dt100? I feel an addiction coming on....

For a 78? It should be in the manual you can get here - http://www.files.pioneerx.co.uk/view.php?f...vice_manual.pdf Look in the back, starting on page 26.