r1mick

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-GENUINE-YAMAHA-D...1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-GENUINE-YAMAHA-D...1QQcmdZViewItem

Welcome to the forum bud

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PO_E9cM6A3Y&NR=1" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PO_E9cM6A3Y&NR=1</a> And its not boy bands or rap Xtreme

Enjoy the big bikes mate

Erm thanks for pointing that out

I have a 2000 R1 and my temp only goes up to around 150 at idle, obviously you will have checked the water level and have the correct amount of coolant in

Live long, drink beer and ride bikes and women

Hi mate theres 2 bolts hold the ignition of a tzr 125 rk to the top yoke take them both out and remove the whole barrel and disconnect it from the loom, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-DT-TZR-RD125-...1QQcmdZViewItem You will have to drill out the seat lock and the tank lock once drilled the seat lock is held on with 2 10mm nuts and the fuel tank lock is held on with allen bolts. If you get stuck for a fuel tank cap and seat lock send me a pm and i will see what i can find in the garage as i spent the summer breaking tzr 125's and still have a few bits lyin around

The cost is around £50 GBP over here so that probably equates to around the $100 mark

Hi mate it deffo sounds like a carb sync issue have them balanced that should cure it

Hi Mate have a read of the following A slipper clutch (also known as a back-torque limiter) is a specialized clutch developed for performance oriented motorcycles to mitigate the effects of engine braking when riders decelerate as they enter corners. They are designed to partially disengage or "slip" when the rear wheel tries to drive the engine faster than it would run under its own power. The engine braking forces in conventional clutches will normally be transmitted back along the drive chain causing the rear wheel to hop, chatter or lose traction. This is especially noted on larger displacement four-stroke engines, which have greater engine braking than their two-stroke or smaller displacement counterparts. Slipper clutches eliminate this extra loading on the rear suspension giving riders a more predictable ride and minimize the risk of over-revving the engine during downshifts. Slipper clutches can also prevent a catastrophic rear wheel lockup in case of engine seizure or transmission failure. Generally, the amount of force needed to disengage the clutch is adjustable to suit the application. Slipper clutches have been used in most high displacement four stroke racing motorcycles since the early 1980s. Honda introduced the slipper clutch with the debut of the FWS1000 in 1982 at Daytona, but it failed because the design wore out the clutch. Slipper clutches were also used in Honda's 750 Interceptor factory superbikes that same year. Before long slipper clutches could be found in nearly every big bore four-stroke race bike. Slipper clutches are now gradually being factory installed on production four-stroke motorcycles such as the Aprilia Mille, Yamaha YZF-R6 2006/2007, Yamaha YZF-R1 SP 2006 , Yamaha YZF-R1 2007 , Kawasaki ZX-10R, Suzuki GSX-R1000 2005-2007, Harley Davidson V-Rod VRSC 2008, and are available as retrofit for many other models. hope this helps

Welcome..that looks mega clean very nice but how many pennies did it cost ya?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-CA50DL-Salien...NQQcmdZViewItem

Otherwise known as a c50 or as a 'plakka' when i was a kid.

I hope your not paying by the hour If its been 6 months and he cant give you a finish date then get your bike back mate

Thanks for the warm welcome guys Picked the R1 up the other day stavenage to donny in less than 1h 30 well impressed

Start with 220 grit sand paper to remove the pit marks from every where that you want to shine. What is important is to go always in the same direction with the sand paper strokes. Try to go with the existing "grain" of the metal. Removing the pitting is a long pain in the ass process. You will have no finger prints left after polishing. From 220 comes 320 to remove the scratches left from 220. I recommend wet sanding all the grits. Wet sanding will help to keep your work area clean and it makes a big difference with the higher grits. The grit sequences I use are as follows: 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and if needed 2000.If you don't mind investing some money buy an orbital sander. This will greatly reduce the polishing time and wear on your fingers. When you have completely removed all the pitmarks, redo 220 by hand to remove all the swirls left by the sander. If you decide to use the sander only use it for the first grit. The only "trick" involved is not to get into a rush to complete it. I really can not stress this enough. If you do not completely remove the scratches left behind from the previous grit you will always have scratches visible. When ever I think I am finished with one grit I always go over that same area again one more time with a fresh piece of paper to ensure I have all the scratches out. I recommend to keep using the same piece of paper until it is smooth so you are using it to gradually remove the scratches left from a fresh piece of paper.

Hi Steve, You could either rub the frame down and give it a spraypaint or if you wanna go the whole hog have the frame sand/shot blasted then powder coated yes prepping bad patches with some kind of rust treatment is the way forward

Hey Martin,, I was parked next to you at the starboyz and vertical brits stunt show a few months ago and thats one of the best trick bikes i have seen in ages but tell me what was with the baby bottle??

Hi i would reccomend throwing your old motor in a skip and finding a replacement lump i don't know the availability of these things in canada but over here there 10 a pennie. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-FZR600-GENESI...0QQcmdZViewItem

Hi mate i can't tell you the exact plug gap but as a rough guide use the top end of a ciggerette box to set the gap you can't go far wrong...As for some of the cylinders being dry that would indicate that either you are getting a spark on some of the cylinders and its burning the fuel and some cylinders (how many does you bike have?) no spark hence the wetness.Also you could check the fuel flow through the carbs.

Don't even know if im posting this in the right place so feel free to move it if its not. I've had a quick look through your forum and it seems like a canny set up.... I have been riding bikes for nearly 21 years and ive only had 4 minor'ish accidents so im either good, lucky or saving it up for a biggy!!!! Im a member of a north east of england bike club. I have 3 bikes at the mo (and a few in spares)...i know that might seem excessive but i say you can never have too many bikes..my resident bikes are my trusty zzr1100 (c1 model) and 2 dtr 125's (1995+2001) and im off down the big smoke this tuesday to pick up a 2000 model R1. Spent the summer breaking tzr125's on ebay but the market is dead now so its time to find a real job again until next summer See ya's Mick