gregost

ok figured it out so i might as well put the info into the post. you use the kick starter and move the piston to top dead center where there is the most compression. then you pull the compression release and move the piston just past top dead center. then let out the compression release and don't use it when you actually kick the kick starter. for cold starts, pull out the choke, then make sure the kick starter is clicked up as high as it will go and then give it a kick without applying compression release or any throttle. BOOM the thing starts like a charm. for a bike that has been running do all the above except don't pull out the choke. i tried it with and without using the hot start lever and it started either way. if the bike floods i usually pull in the compression release, kick it a few times to sort of clear ot the cylinder, then go thru the routine above. after some experimentation i became pretty good at starting this bike on the first kick. you think with as intricate a procedure as above Yamaha would have given some decent starting instructions but i couldn't find any. maybe this will help somebody else out. anyway, i just sold my two stroke after riding this bike over the weekend. what a smooth riding power machine. it has a Bill's thunder series pipe and damn it also sounds great! see ya..

bought it for cheap and just rebuilt 4th gear. now it runs like a fine machine. the only thing is my unfamiliarity with the manual compression release and hot start. seems it's a fine line between pulling in the compression release lever too far and it not starting and letting it out too much and having too much compression to kick it over. anybody have any tips on how to best start this bike cold and also once you've been riding awhile? it's going to be a blast once i figure this out.

ok i figured it out. the air screw opens to make it run richer which is opposite a two stroke. duh.. once i figured that out i just opened it a few turns until it idled and then dialed it in from there. bingo. bike runs like new.

i had the same problem with a used '99 pw80 i bought. my solution although not the technical one was to buy another carb online from the dealer near me. i believe it was around $70. i stuck it on and the bike ran like new from that point on. was happy with the choice i made each time i gave it one kick and it started up and purred like a kitten. sorry i should have read the second half of your email you may want to take it back and try another carb if you can return it. may be less frustration based on my experience with the replaced carb. originally i dissected mine and wasted a shitload of riding time before doing what you did and buy a new one. that solved it all.

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Just traded my pw80 for a 2005 ttr125 off craig's list. needs some attention which it didn't receive from previous dipsh#@ owner. have gotten all perfect except the carb. can't get it to idle. have dissected it and used the manual to check settings and unfortunately it just doesn't idle. runs good otherwise. have the idle set screw turned in almost all the way. the air screw setting on the bottom of the carb is only open about 1 1/2 turns. the carb has an ink stamp 'RM' on it. perhaps this means remanufactured? anyone care to toss in some sound advice. hate to have to spend the $$ at the dealer or buy a new $210 carb.