socalyamaha

the 1975 xs650 is the B model the 1977 xs650 is the D model FYI no major differences. but i think the front brakes were different.

any luck?

well you could contact yamaha directly. try this site: http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/ what is wrong with what you have now?

are the gaskets for the needle seats good? are the seats tightened down enough? i had this problem when i picked my bike up. probably why i got it so cheap. make sure the float needles and seats are not worn.

ebay or call a dealer.?

no i don't see one.

so i changed out the brake pads on my 81 XJ550 a few months ago. and i noticed the caliper is now loose when the brake is not engaged. its like the pads are pulling back to far into the caliper. plenty of fluid and the brake activates just fine. could the pin holding it in place be worn out?

Have you been able to tell if the setscrew moves? Have you cleaned the carbs? Checked your timing? I had big problems like this on my 550 seca. Which uses similar Mukuni's, but four of them. And way, the bike liked to die at stop signs and loose power sporadically while riding. Cleaned the Carbs completely, and rides great now. Buy jewelry cleaner (ultra sonic cleaner) and go to town. My slides were filthy.

i was coming home today on my seca550 from work and fighting through traffic as usual. and after i got of the freeway, i realized how hard it was to get into neutral. i kept clicking past it because it was hard to move the shifter lever. did the clutch get over worked in traffic?

got to keep them carbs clean.

i use the Bridgestones on my 400, and i love them.

are the cylinders frozen? if so, they'd be helping the barrels stay on the block. they could be rusted together. pour some diesel or deep creep in to each of the cylinders and wait a few days. any try again.

um, i'm not sure they're still available....

http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/p...2/0713/0046.Gif here is a picture of the XS360 rear wheel set up. the rubber sleeves(29) are basically your cush drive. you should notice a big washer(36) and snap ring(37) on the outside of the sprocket. that is what holds it on to your hub. the threaded shafts(30) are bolted on the sprocket and then pushed in to the hub and then the washer and then the snap ring.

ok, take a BIG Phillips screwdriver, and you'll need a seal puller(preferably with an angled tip) remove rubber cap. make sure you have enough leverage. use the driver to push down the plug below the rubber cap. use the seal puller to get out the c clip. yes you can do this by yourself. one hand on the driver and one using the seal puller. after you get the clip out. slowly, and i mean slowly bring the driver up. grab the plug when it clears the tube. if you don't it could fly off and hit something.