grizzlydan

Should do, most frame & swingarm on specific models interfit. The way to check is look up the dimentions & then measure the replacement swingarm, if the same it'll fit.

I've had similar problems on other Yamahas & usually find it's the brushes in the generator have worn to the limit.

could just be a knackered battery.

Sounds like a choke problem or your throttle cable is sticking. Check the choke is going off completely after starting(the valve is closing properly).

It's supposed to be, that's what creates the bounce. I had to get the help of a friend to sort mine out. By the way, you are supposed to use a special tool (or fabricate one) to put down the inside of the fork tube to hold the end thats turning.

Yes you can. Will you be riding a 50cc ? If not then you should wait til you're 17 but if you are fine.

If they refuse to refund your money tell them you will report them to trading standards & report them in the biking press. No bike shop can afford negative press these days, it costs them too much money. I know of a couple of shops that were put out of business that way.

You can pass a cbt at 16 for 50cc's but you will have to do another cbt in 2 years. The CBT only allows you to ride with 'L' plates on max 125cc at 17 years of age & upwards, you have to pass the theory test & 2nd part test to obtain a full licence.

A yamaha dealer or a locksmith will know where to locate the key number & so supply you with a replacemant.

What they're saying is you buy a brand new battery that is dry charged when made & they will fill it & charge it for you. If you're going to do that you may as well get it sent to you, open the battery & you will find a row of transparent phials of electrolite. Cut the tops off (very carefully as it is acid) then pour it into the battery (put the battery holes to the phials 1st, then turn it upside down so you don't spill any) then you will find the battery getting hot (this supposed to happen). Then put it on charge til fully charged. You can leave it 20mins & there should be enough charge to start the bike but i often find it cheaper (& better) if you charge it for a couple of hours 1st. As for your battery, it may look ok but the cells inside are likely to be warped from constant charging which happens over time.

I don't know what sort of charging systems you have in the usa but if the reg/rect is getting so hot you can barely touch it, then trust me it points to over charging (or other electrical problem)! As for checking with a fully charged battery, it makes no difference as the charge should be constant as long as the system is working properly. As for a battery maintainer on a new battery, waste of money imo coz I leave my bike 1 week to the next & it always starts without a hitch (to the point that it's been left 3 months & started 3rd turn of the engine). Mad73, have you checked for electrical shorts in your wiring? This would allow the battery to discharge when turned off if there is a completed circuit to earth (short). Just another possibilty.

If it has a race exhaust it may need to be jetted but 1st check the pilot jets ain't blocked (also check the pilot air jet is correctly set) & the air filter/s are clean. If it has the original airbox try running it with out the airfilter to see if it makes a difference (may need cone filters fitted). Check the plugs as well coz aftermarket parts (like exhausts) can make the bike go through ignition/carburation system parts like nobodys business.

Sounds like a charging problem. You said it had a new battery, I wonder why? Is it because the charging system or reg/rectifier needs to be checked. This can happen coz as soon as the bike warms up the electrics start breaking down. A quick way to check is put a voltmeter across the terminals of the battery & check the charge when running ( should read 14.5 volts) & watch what the charge is when it cuts out. A more in depth check can be done using a manual on electrics (Haynes do a good one). By the way also check the reg/rect for getting too hot (smell & feel).

Sounds like the reg/rect is burning out, usual cause is over-charging. You need to get this checked, if you have a multimeter put it on voltage & check the charge across the terminals (should read 14.5 volts with the bike running). A better way is doing a ampage check but i wouldn't advise doing it if you are a novice.

It is aligned both sides of the swingarm to the same mark isn't it? If so , new chain & sprockets! If this is the 1st time you had this problem since buying the bike then the last owner might have removed links out of the chain to sell it. Just a thought, coz many traders/sellers use this shortcut to save money & get rid (if you know what i mean).

This is on it's way 2 my ex as 'm typing!

Nice job but i think you'd do well to get rid of the Yamaha Air Brakes (what me & friend's refer to as THOSE indicators). Put some smaller ones on. Would look better, HONEST!

Don't know for sure but look around the battery box (that age of bike it may be under the battery box/carrier for airflow).

Sorry to hear about your loss mate, I know how it feels! Years ago, when i 1st passed my test, I maxed out my my credit on buying my 1st middleweight. I couldn't afford to insure it til the following morning (couldn't get anymore money out & no credit cards) so I put 7 different locks on it, the next morning the only thing left was the 3 locks & chains securing it to a lamp post & 2 other bikes. GUTTED OR WHAT!!!!! So I know what you'd like to do to them dirty no good scum sucking B'stid's if you ever catch them. Sorry getting emotional again! The doc's say I'll get better,over it, whatever. BALDOCKS!

Thanks, as a mechanic/tutor the more of these links on my favorites the better.

You could try here or visit this one., hope these help.

Congrats ShoKs, now try to keep the licence. So be careful with the right hand.

To check the float height, hold the carburetor so the float hangs down, then tilt back until the valve needle is just seated (the small rod in the end of the needle valve shouldn't be compressed). Measure the distance from the carburetor body (without the float chamber gasket) to the top of the float. The float height should be 20.0mm +/-1.0mm(0.787+/-0.020inch). Again that's what it says in the manual.

If it keeps going slack (the chain) & you're running out of alingment marks then the chain needs replacing. The torque arm is to make sure you have a back brake (if this is not attached you have no rear brake), the nut can be loosened (after removing the pin) when adjusting the chain but remember to tighten afterwards & replace the pin coz it (the pin) stops the nut going west while you're going east. It's also a MOT failure if the pin is missing (point of roadworthyness if pulled over by the law) because it's there to stop the nut coming off if it should become loose. By the way you are tightening the rear spindle after adjustment i hope, coz that's the other way the chain keeps loosening? The false neutrals can be caused by the oil being no good, needing changing.

If you take the frame & engine number to a yamaha dealer they will be able to identify it 4 you.