yoda

I agree that they are corroded in. You can buy a specfic penetrating fluid in good tool stores or garages and drip[ it down into the join. Another way of seperating the crank case and barrel is to heat the aluminium crankcase while keeping the barrel cold, therefore it might release due to expansion.

Is that a blue pill? Haven't seen that article on here but will try to find out from some R1 owners.

You have done the right thing as leather only streches where its stressed. You also might want to wear thermals under the leather so you'll need some more room. It's also usefull to have room for the body armour.

Sounds more like fuel starvation. You need to flush the tank out and change the fuel filter, if fitted. Check and see if there is any more dirt in the carbs. The tacho is telling you a fault has occured.

One for each carb. Go to a specialist.

Perhaps you should fit Town & Country crossplys. If you are having tyre problems with your car as well as your bike, may I suggest that you should review your driving. 3000 miles of heavy use would be about right on a rear tyre. You need to fit tyres with a bias towards touring to get a longer life.

If you have increased the airflow through the venturi then you must increase the fuel as well. It will be running weak so try enrichening it first. If it won't accelerate properly then you will have to rejet and rebalence the carbs. Try one size up from what is already there, should have a number stamped on it. It is best to do any work like this on a dynometer as the fuelling can be fully sorted.

If you don't pay the tolls, you won't have any roads.

Isn't it printed in your owners manual?

There you go TLC, tender loving care, what more does a Yamaha need!!!

If you search around, you will find people who reline brake shoes. That will cost you alot less than OEM

Can't help with the lights but any auto lights for bar mounting would work OK, that assumes you will mount them on engine bar protectors. There are probably laws that restrict the placement of lights just as there are for cars so check that out first. I guess your in the UK. Elsewhere you'll be OK for fitment. Depending on the amps drawn for the lights, you could just fit a switch and run them striaght off the battery. If they are a heavy load you will need to switch on a relay to take the current. The switch will burn out otherwise. Don't forget to use an inline fuse to them. Word of warning. When its misty, light is reflected from the water droplets and therefore can be blinding. So the lights should be difused and perhaps coloured to cut down the reflections.

We had this a few months ago on here. Don't know the outcome. This type of problem might not be straightforward. The tail can wag the dog so start looking around the rear end for the reason. First check that the tyre (tires) are running straight and no bulges. Check the rear wheel bearings, swing arm movement and rear shocks for movement. Do all of this with the rear off the ground and give it a good pull and shake.

It is very important to check for metal in the drained oil. If there is anything metalic find out if its steel (magnetic) or a soft alloy. This might guide you to what is wrong. If there is a large amount of debris then the whole oil system will need to be flushed and refilled, changing the filter again.

You have loose joints in the electrical harness and when you move it, the joints make and break.

If you can't adjust it out then there is something wrong and should be fixed under warrenty

Put the bike on a paddock stand and face forward to it to see the extremities. Crash bungs go there. Carry with you spare levers and foot pegs to replace those broken.

Your going to lay it over so get some crash protection.

So what actually caused the problem?

I think that it can only be the engine mountings. The vibration is being transmitted through them to you, so unless the engine has started to develop a balence problem then I would change the mountings.

What your effectively saying is that the normal gearing does not suit the torque curve. Therefore Yamaha have got it wrong. Which is something that all manufactureers do at some time.

The Bandit is too heavy for a 650 engine but OK as a 1250. The Fazer is perfect.

If wishes were horses, beggars would ride. If only we could know the answer ourselves. What would be a perfect setting one day will not be another day so best you can do is to go to a specialist, have new shock absorbers fitted and the forks serviced and get it set up from that point. All racing teams would like to know the answer as well.

First thing to do is find out exactly where the sound is coming from. If you can select all of the gears and it drives normally then the gearbox must be OK. Has the action of the clutch changed recently? Has the rear wheel moved off centre? Are all the teeth still on the sprockets? If you cannot find anything and it is still making a noise, its probably gearbox bearings.

Oil level light or oil pressure light? If its the level then it might be faulty. Have you checked the crankcase breather pipes for blockage? If there is a blockage, oil might be staying in the head rather than returning.