yoda

Well done and congratulations. Get your test in quickly as it changes in October and unless your lucky, you will have to travel along way to take the test.

There is a modification that involves a little wiring to have both lights on at the same time. I do not know whether it will work on your bike. Other things to check are that the earths are clean and working and the headlight switch is clean and not corroded. If your not getting full voltage to the light, it will be dim.

We have had tales like this before. Most of the time it is the rear wagging the dog. Check you rear tyre and wheel also your swing arm bearings and rear shock. There is a 99% certainty that's where you will find the problem. However, some bikes do need a steering damper, so check your head bearings and fit a damper if you find nothing else. Check back here when you find the problem.

I suspect that you have done a little damage with the cams. it is a question of overlap that can cause the problem. You must lap the valves in properly. Do not get any paste on the valve guides. To test the valves for leakage, after lapping, reassemble the cylinderhead that you are lapping, just the springs etc not cams and fill the head with white spirit. If there is a trace of the spirit in the inlet or exhaust passages after say five minutes, then you need a bit more lapping. When you have reassembled the engine, run it normally for a few hours and the retest the compression. You did remember to roughen the bores when you put the new rings in?

I would also check the coolant level when cold. It could be a head gasket.

It is true that you have to have the same size wheel and tyre on the same axel. This applies to bikes cars and scooters. It does not apply to tractors etc, especially with mountain farmers!

I was just checking that it wasn't an icing problem. Well my best guess is that you have a faulty spark plug or plug lead. Check that the plug leads are not damaged in any way and that they are all secure to the plugs. Find out if all the cylinders are firing by checking the exhaust header temperatures, straight after it starts to happen. Check your airbox for leaves or dead mice etc and that the throttle bodies are OK. I suspect that the bike warms up and then this starts to happen so probably not a fuel problem but check that the fuel line is not getting too hot and vapourising the fuel. Come back here when you have tried all of that. Just a thought, is the sidestand switch secure? Any kill swithes that are intermitant will also cause this problem

Does it do it in damp weather or will it do it in warm dry weather?

I would use fully synthetic oil which by the way does not cause clutch slip but ensure you are using the right grade.

Your good, very good.

It does sound like water in the conections or bad cable connectors. You need to spray all the connectors and switches with a water repellent, such as WD40. Failing this, us must check the whole electrical harness for shorting and burning. For safety, disconnect the battery when not in use.

If you wish to increase your tank milage, just increase the octane rating of the fuel. The higher the octane (to a point) the easier the engine works and the less throttle action is required. This works on cars as well.

You can use old pantyhose!!!!

All you need to do is remember that you have done the change. There will be no 'JoeCool' if you do forget! I'm surprised by this thread as we never had cutout switches on our bikes. I must admit I never consider them. Just like jumping in a car its second nature. You will f**k up!

You will find riding it very different to other machines! Because of the cylinder arrangement the crankshaft throws the bike sideways. You will get used to it!! Good bike and I would like to see some pictures when its cleaned up.

Don't worry if you can't get them all out, they will just sit in the bottom of the tank. The important thing is to flush the tank out to ensure there is no other debris in there. When its clean, re-assemble it and ensure that you put a filter inline to the carb inlet.

It probably works on a drag cup. There will be a spinning magnet under the needle cup, so that's where to look.

Spread it across the county.

If it's got carbs then you have an air leak.

Air filters are you last problem. You need to change the oil everywhere and clean and flush the whole fuel system. Any hydraulics need to be serviced and new tyres (tires) fitted. You need to have it checked out by a serious mechanic to make sure its safe. Now you can ride it to the sky!!

Where is it leaking from? Is it the outside or inside can you tell for sure? When you find out come back here. Be careful if you are using the bike. We don't like our members riding down the road in flames even if it does look good!

Welcome to the fray! There could be a number of things wrong with the bike, its just a matter of working through them. First thing to do without causing yourself injury is to get the bike hot and when it starts to be limited, find out if there is one cylinder cooler than the other. This can be done buy checking the exhaust pipes. That will tell you if one of the cylinders is not firing. Anothing thing to do is check that fuel is gettting to the carbs and that no filters are blocked. Next take out the spark plugs and put new ones in. After or before all of that , check all of the oil levels and ensure they are correct. Come back here when you have done all of that.

I think that you should be very careful with this bike until you have found the cause. I you detach the throttle cable from the carb end, you will be able to exercise it and see if it is sticking at all. You will also be able to see if the the throttle butterflies are closing without sticking. If after reassembling them it is still doing it, it is either the throttle return spring not pulling back or the cable is jamming. The carbs should be OK from the checks that you have made. If there was an air leak it will give the same sort of hang up but that will clear in a second or two. One other thing to check is the carbs float height. You might have one float low or filled with fuel causing this problem.

I would advise that after highly polishing the forks, to give them a coat of laquer. This will reduce the amount of work needed in the future.

Look in the bikes handbook and it with magic will tell you.