yoda

Problem is what caused it to shear? Something must have locked up to shock load it that much. What other damage is there?

How big is your gallon? An imperial gallon is larger than your US gallon so that is the difference.

I've got to ask how you siezed the gearbox? If the engine was not shock loaded you could sell it.

It's not on cam at those revs so that is why its a little bit rich. There would be no pick-up if it was weakened off. I suppose that you exup valve is working, or is it a Honda.

Oilcooler?

Dirt in the tank.

Get it fixed, a tent maker or shoe repairer might do it or fix it yourself!

Do be careful. 7mm is plenty. What year is it?

Any motorfactors will have some. Do make sure you buy the correct thing.

I think the starter dog has gone.

Welcome to the fray! Are you short of time? We arn't. If you need help, ask away.

I don't know whether it is just because it's new or the synchromesh is baulking the gearchange. It must be very frustrating not knowing when it is going to happen. I can only suggest the following:- Speak to Yamaha to find out the exact setup for the clutch. Then adjust the clutch to what they have said. Run in the bike as per makers instructions. Make sure that you do lots of gear changes to loosen the box. If it is still baulking on first gear, return the bike and get a refund as there is something wrong with it and the seller is responcible. Make sure that you tell the seller what is going on and put the whole episode in writing.

There are a few breakers around, you will find them in MCN (out today) or try ordering a new one. ebay is another place to look.

Cross the plug leads over and try to start it.

Well you need to clean out all of your fuel system, including the carbs, as you must have blocked jets.

If you have removed the tank, it can be welded. You will need to vent it first. if the hole was caused by rust, then a cover plate will need to be welded on. However, if that is the case it would be better to get another tank.

I think its sucking air in from the wrong places. When you took the carbs off did you change the mounting connectors? If they suck air they won't suck fuel.

Not so easy to diagnose but here goes. If the clutch lever cannot be pulled back as you stated in the start of your sentance then it must be the master cylinder. If the lever pulls back but nothing else happens, it could be the slave cylinder. If the slave cylinder is moving but the clutch does not dis-engage, then its inside under the clutch If it is none of these, you are holding the front brake lever.

You need to contact the alarm manufactureer.

Try setting the plug gap to 25 thou, it might be a very weak spark causing the problem. I suspect that the starter is the prime cause of your problems.

....and you want us to be part of it? If the frame and engine number are missing, you are just helping the criminals to keep going.

If it was significant it would not idle. You will however destroy the engine if something has come adrift. The lack of power and the knock look like broken piston but it would not idle unless the idle adjustment was increased. I would not ride this bike incase the engine suddenly locked up.

Agreed. I only think that they might not be standard cams or valves. However you said it was a basket case.

You must have a faulty switch or connecting block. Try disconnecting and skirting with wd40 see if that helps. You might be able to get some in the switch. Another thing to do is exercise the switch to clean the contacts. The fault must be close to it.

After checking the cylinder head as per Drewpy, re-assenble the engine and check the valve clearences. When they are OK try and run the engine. You need to do a few hours to rebed it in and then check the compression. The blowback might be caused by a crack in the head which opens up under pressure. However, you must have equal spark plug gaps and ensure that they are all firing. These engines are bullit proof so they say, so it will not be difficult to find the problem.