yoda

Assuming that you put your details in correctly and asked for the same level of cover, then you would be insured. You should also check what you are insured for, as this can mean alot of difference to the cost.

Assuming that all else is normal ie that there is not too much petrol and all plugs are firing, I would say that the cranking speed, when cold, of the engine is too slow. This could be because the starter is knackered or the battery is no good or the earth (ground) needs cleaning/renewing. It probably starts from hot without any problems. It could also be that thee wrong oil has been put in it causing the engine to crank slowly.

The tab probably only prevents you from removing the fuel pump. Cut the tab off or cut the tank open and remove the pump. Be very careful not to damage the pump and its wiring. Clean the new tank before fitting the fuel pump.

Does that give you a storage area under the cowl?

Congratulations Haley, you can go to the ball. Why not, you have a bike and in time you will sample all makes , I hope. Your Yamasuki will go under your name.

They might be on seperate relays but might be on the same fuse.

Welcome! Want some oil?

Whilst you were in the arms of morphius, the Yamaha gremlins crept in and wrecked havoc with your bike. Now go and do the rest of what you were told.

The UK (British) Government has started a safety check on all helmets. There are to be independantly checked for safety and marked accordingly. You should buy the ones with the best safety number on them. The results will be out mid 08 onwards.

Go to Dogpile.com and do a search. Puting a starter on a bike just increases the weight, If it hasn't one, don't fit one.

That big heavy lead that comes out of the engine?

Where were you in the floods this year? Seasonal salutations to all!!

Apart from ensuring that the shaft drive line is streight and that the lub filler is at the top, I can't think of anything else apart from standard aliegnment checks.

Back firing through the carbs is an indication of the timing being too advanced. There are things that can cause it such as incorrect valve timing or faulty ignition. Your dealership really does need to sort this out as damage is being caused to the engine.

Sounds like a rich cut. When you open the throttle there is too much fuel getting through and the engine cuts out. If its a diaphram type carb, then there is a hole in the diaphram.

Your float is stuck down and causing the carb to flood. Remove the float chamber and clean it all out and then refit it. Dry the sparky bits and then try to kick it over. Do not switch anything on like lights, first. Ensure that the fuel you have is clean and that there is no dirt in the system.

Really, do you wish to qualify that statement? Where can I buy my Yamaha parts cheaper than Yamaha dealership supply. Do tell everyone. If you know a deal tell us all.

Welcome to the forum! In Europe we don't get our 08's 'till 08. Although you can order them. Can you put a picture up of the pipe?

Check the above but I think it might be a sticking carb float.

I have never heard of any official dealership refusing to service its make of vehicle. I would take this up with Yamaha America. However, it is possible that they have refused to service your bike because they cannot get the parts from Yamaha. Other dealers can buy parts in from anywhere but the official dealers cannot. So if Yamaha don't supply, then dealers cannot service. You can buy all the items required for a service on the internet and most servicing is streightforward. Do it yourself and be proud that you did. Get a manual.

This just means that the voltage has risen high enough to jump the gap. I think that it is producing a low voltage normally, for whatever reason perhaps as you have written that the windings have gone to ground (earth). Take the flywheel off and give it a good clean, refit and try again.

If the cylinder heads are held on with nuts then the studs probably go all the way through to the bottom crankcase.

Your last photoshowing the rear end also shows the shock absorber mounting. The top bolt of the mount doesn't appear to be long enough for safety. With that type of nut there should be a minimum of at least one full thread and the standard is three full threads past the end of the nut. Sorry but for your safety, I comment. Nice bits though!

What do you mean 'bottom head gasket'. I think you mean the head gasket rather than the rocker box gasket. Take the head off, clean all faces, put new gasket on and tighten down head. Adjust valve gear as required.

Maybe you did. Get a hot air gun and go over the electrics. Try not to melt anything.