Dr Sangrado

Yes, I had to resort to disconnecting the headlight bowl. The Haynes manual explains that the low oil level lamp is operated by a float switch which is a press fit in the top of the oil tank. This is wired through the neutral switch so that when the ignition is switched on, and the machine is in neutral, the lamp comes on as a way of checking its operation. As soon as a gear is selected the lamp should go out unless the oil level is low.

Thanks All for the advice. I've finally checked the bulb, and that of the Low Oil Level warning one, which is supposed to illuminate as a check when the bike is in neutral, according to Haynes, as that too didn't work. As can be seen from the photo it's quite a palaver, but there's no other way. The bulbs were intact, which I wasn't expecting, so maybe one day I'll check to see why but at least the Neutral light works.

Thanks for the links. It does look that the headlight will have to be removed; although it seems strange that Yamaha would choose such a difficult and time-consuming way to replace a bulb. Perhaps in the case of the RXS100 its designer didn't want unsightly screw heads spoiling the appearance of the instrument cluster; although I would prefer the screws to be visible and accessible. Hopefully fellow RXS100 owners, with experience of changing warning lamps, will know of a quick and easy way to do so.

Yes, that's a similar item. There is less than 19mm clearance between the front screw head and the headlamp bowl so unless there's a special screwdriver that fits, the headlight needs to be removed; as far as I can see. I could raise the speedo and tacho but I don't think that would help.

Could someone please tell me how this is done. The Haynes manual explains that the top cover of the warning lamps compartment, which is retained by two screws under the mounting bracket must first be removed. It also says that all other models have the screws positioned on the top (the most practical place for them). I can see the screws but as they are obstructed by the headlight unit, this appears to have to be removed to gain access. I can't see how to do this, if it is necessary, nor does the Haynes manual offer any guidance. Thank you for any advice.

Thank you for your detailed and helpful replies. I feel I'm asking questions too readily but I'm new to this and appreciate your taking the trouble to help. I think I may have answered my own question! I've just removed the silencer and found the the brake pedal hits a stop welded to the footrest bracket. There's a small flange at of the front of the stop which look as if a rubber buffer could be attached there. I've cut a piece of rubber tubing to fit it but it's not clear in the photo. Hopefully it will stay in place. Thanks again.

I've noticed that the top of my rear brake pedal is in contact with the underside of the silencer and there are clear signs of wear on both parts. I'm sure there should be clearance between the items and if left, could wear a hole in the silencer. The rear hub lever and brake rod have an angle about 90º between them, I'd always believed that this angle should always be less than 90, anything more than that is wrong. Or is that an old wives' tale? Would moving the hub lever, a spline or so on the shaft, make things any better? Any explanation of what's wrong or what I can do to fix it would be appreciated. Bike has a recent MOT so brakes should work OK. I had thought of wrapping a thin strip of rubber round the pedal, but it might burn on the silencer.

Thanks both for your comments. I was trying to be helpful but your remarks are completely valid; it isn't wise to pass that sort of information to strangers. No point in deleting the post, better let it stand so that anyone who is thinking of buying a key that way is warned of the possible dangers.

Thanks for that! That's something I hadn't considered and has really cheered me up. Is there a way off taking my post? 'Taking my post down'?

I've raised a new post, Classic Yamaha Key Cutting, which relates to and continues this topic.

This is a follow-on from a previous post, 'RXS100 Spare Key', as it's applicable to any classic Yamaha or other bike with a simple key and warrants a wider audience. A company on EBay, 'Spare-Keys-4-u', was advertising the blank HON42 which my key was. I asked if they would tell me the length of the blank, as I wasn't sure whether the one in their illustration was the correct length. They asked me to send a photo, but I sent two, one of each face. I was told they could cut the key from the photos. I was sceptical but they offer a money back guarantee so I ordered one. I don't know whether it would work in every case, but I've tried the one I received today and it fits and functions perfectly. The cost was exactly a third of the price I was quoted by Timpsons.

Thanks for the link. HON42 is shown there under Honda motorcycles and is identical to my key, being a long shape. My bikes's ignition switch looks original, and the key also fits the locking fuel cap. They may have been replaced or maybe the same manufacturer supplied both Honda and Yamaha with these items.

Having received only one key with the bike I thought it prudent to obtain another. Yambits will try to help if I can provide the key code which is written on the bottom of the ignition switch but I am reluctant to start taking the bike apart, at least just yet. As it's a very basic key, marked SILCA HON42, I asked Timpsons if they could cut me one. They had the short version of the blank, but not the longer, that I require. Strange to have different size keys with the same number. Timpson can obtain a 'long' blank within a few days. I asked what the cost would be and was told £30 for the first key and £15 for any additional ones. When I expressed disbelief at what I thought was the high price, I was given a lot of waffle about quality etc. The Saturday girl in my local 'We sell everything' shop can cut a perfect key. She clamps the key and a blank in the machine, presses a button and within a few minutes, a perfect key is produced. HON42 blanks are available on EBay but they look like the short ones. My next step is to try the local locksmith shop. I can't send the key away for fear of it getting lost although I could go a reasonable distance to get one cut.

Thanks for your reply. I checked again, no sign of a lock and the seat is firmly bolted down. Looked again and saw there was a 10mm bolt at the lower right corner of the oil tank side panel which I removed. After gingerly pulling gently on the cover, the back swung outwards, holding the oil tank on its base. When I first looked to see how to reach the filler cap I noticed that it was positioned closely under a frame member, which had me confused. With the panel moving outwards it makes replenishment simpler, and cleaner. Good design, whenever it was changed; but Yamaha forgot to tell Haynes.

Silly question, but how does one gain access to the filler cap? The Haynes manual explains that the dual seat pivots on the RH side and is opened by a key operated latch on the LH side. This should give access to it, and although I can see the cap just below the fuel tank, I can't see where the lock is, if there is one. Thanks for your help.