fosdyke

......................Just don't get me started!!!!!!! What is it pray tell in the time of 'Global Warming' and 'Carbon footprints' that this and most other f******** governments have got against us bikers??? You'd have thought they would be encouraging us to get on our bikes! (Not that I need much with the price of fuel!!!)

It's got 2 wheels................badge on the side doesn't matter - hey look at me I am multicultural in my approach to bikes.........the more the merrier! Welcome aboard. Ride safe

....................ahhhhhhhh Vitae but you don't live in the nanny state UK where soon cotton wool suits will be compulsorary on the street! Yeah check it out on the DSA/DVLA site all the info is there. Like Aquila I started out when you could ride up to 250cc on L plates and the test comprised of riding round the block a couple of times while the examiner watched! Ride safe.

Hi and welcome. Hope we can help. Ride safe.

Hi and welcome. Of all the bike forums I subscribe to this is the most active..............lets keep it that way! Ride safe

Hi Skid.....................welcome. Looking forward to the better weather too............if my hands haven't frozen off, or the water collecting in my boots doesn't give me trench foot! Hoping to make it up with a bunch of friends to Hunstanton this year + excuse to see the rellies in Heacham - maybe we could meet up? Ride safe.

Hi Really sounds like a timing issue if the petrol is igniting with the plug out resting on the head. As to the broken reed valve - its possible - if you turn it over normally then take out the plug is it very wet? A very wet plug could indicate a broken valve. Let us know how it goes.

hi..............and welcome to the forum. Yoda is right if everything was OK before it is almost certainly fuel. However there are a couple of other things you should check just to confirm. 1. Do you get a spark from the plugs - take the plugs out lay them on the engine and turn it on the starter - you need a good blue spark from each. 2. Is the fuel getting to the plugs - if you turn the bike over a few times with the plugs in and the choke out - then take out the plugs and look to see if they are wet (but not soaked) and smell of petrol. If you need to drain the float bowls you should find a brass type screw at the lowest part of the bowl - undo it and see if any petrol comes out. Good luck.

Hi Ok you have a spark - is it a good fat blue one? If the contact point was burnt it could be the root of the problem, that or the condensor, although these rarely fail - did you replace the contacts or clean them? As a start you could just drop a small (empahsize small) amount into the cylinder(s) and kick it over - if it starts then you are looking at a probable fuel delivery problem or air leak at the carb - make sure the plug is dry before you drop the fuel in. Ideally you should keep an extinguisher handy at this point. If the bike still wont start this could be a timing problem - have you checked this? Check back after you have tried the above and we can go from there. Good luck

Hi Just a thought............this could be a timing issue, not familiar with the TZR50, but if it is similar to other 2 stroke singles with a magneto system you could have a broken woodruff key which would put the ignition timing out. A quick check would be to take out the spark plug, take off the magneto cover then using a large allen key check when the piston comes to TDC and then look at the points or the magnet if you have CDI unit. Rotate the flywheel back and forth and check to see if if the spark is created fractionally before the piston comes to TDC. If the timing is out then this would account for the bike appearing ok but not starting - I have worn out my leg a few times vainly trying to start a bike with a timing problem!! New woodruff key costs around £1 or less. Hope this helps.

Hi Sarah Welcome aboard. Here's the bad news......................unfortunately since about 1985 (for those of us who can remember) the powers that be decided that bikes over 125cc were far too dangerous for learners and restricted them, virtually wiping out the 250cc market overnight! To add insult to injury they have over the years that followed further restricted 2 wheeled access and so today you have to...... For DA 1. Take and 'pass' a CBT (cost around £120) 2. Take and pass a theory test (irrespective of whether you have a car licence!) 3. Take and pass a practical test on a bike of more than 33BHP/35.x Kwh (can't remember exactly) For A2 The same but 3 would be on a bike of which is, or can be restricted to 33bhp. This you can ride for 2 years and then get a bigger bike or remove the restrictor kit without having to jump through any more hoops. Now...................... Here's the even worse news.................. From November 2008 the practical test comes in 2 parts is much harder and probably more expensive! So as regards your RS you can't ride it 'legally' until you have passed either your DA or A2, and of course to do that you need some 'time' on a bigger bike which you can only do with a riding school, unless you know a 'tame' instructor and access to a big bike! Now you say you are over 21 so the DA route sounds sensible as it is basically the same test, but a word of caution - and this is not meant to be sexist in any way but my other half and her friend have taken 2 tests now as they find the bigger bike harder to control on the compulsory U turn..............just a consideration. As to the bike itself the RS 200 is a bigger version of the 125, which was a pretty mechanically sound bike let down by an indifferent frame and dodgy electrics.............however they are getting quite collectable now. You will of course have all the wonders of a 2 stroke bike and a kickstart, but for all that you will get a machine with the power of a 350 or 400cc 4 stroke! Have fun and keep us posted

Welcome aboard! Ride safe.

Don't think it really matters - the heat isn't going to make that much difference to the level. Just make sure that when you check - the bike is level, and on level ground.

Drewpy's right I'm afraid - this is a multimeter and a ton of spaghetti job - no short cut, you're just going to have to trace an test all the ignition wiring. I had a similar fault on an old RS - turned out the be LT wire from ignition to the coil, but took me ages to find it! Good luck

In the meantime you could try repairing the leak if its eay to get to with a hot 'knife' to melt the plastic (if the floats are plastic) - obviously be careful as you are working with petrol soaked parts - so dry them off thoroughly). Otherwise try some of the bike breakers - I got a load of stuff a couple of years ago from Ed's Bikes - sorry don't have the number but you could google him, or try ebay - he's on there sometimes. My YB always pisses petrol out of the overflow............thought it was just normal with these bikes!!!!

Hi Wemoto is good, or just try googling it - I have seen them for around £15, must get round to buying one for mine...... Good luck

Greetings and salutations....

I had this years ago with a 76 RS100 - never did get the reg! But on the bright side the DVLA have a form for getting the reg using the engine and frame numbers - don't know if they charge these days though. - Otherwise you have the re-register at your local office - they will give you an age related mark based on a points system - so if your frame and engine numbers match then you get so many points etc etc. Be prepared for it to cost around £70 though - and you usually have to take the bike there! Good luck

Robert OK this could be a number of things - but first you should check the freeplay at the clutch lever and adjust. You should also check the adjustment on the activation mechanism - usually a worm gear arrangement which should have all the slack taken out - then backed off 1/4 - 1/2 turn. If neither of these make a difference then you could be looking at a problem with the clutch itself - weak springs or a problem with the friction plates. If adjustment does not work then I would advise replacing the clutch components ie springs, friction plates and steel plates. Good luck Geoff

Hi This means you're going to have to take the engine apart! Sounds like the kickstart drive gear - the one that engages with the engine has either broken or the mechanism that enable it to engage has broken, or disengaged. It's different on different bikes so I can't be more specific - maybe one of the other guys who knows your model will be able to help with more specifics. Good luck

Hi Hmmm this could be bad - On Prime gas will flow to the carbs and if the needle valves aren't too good you could end up with an engine full of a lovely mixture of oil and petrol - thats what the guy had done to my Suzuki before I got it - and I had to drain and flush the engine before I could use it! You might want to pull your dipstick out and smell it to see if any petrol has got into the engine. Yeah no problem if: 1. Your tank is clean (ie no bits of rust) coz the reserve takes fuel from the bottom of the tank where the cr**p is (you may consider an in-line filter). 2. You do keep a check on fuel as when its gone, its gone!! Good luck

Hi Daz OK have just been out to the garage to have a good look at the arrangement which is unfortunately a bit difficult to photograph adequately - sorry. Here goes with a description instead: The large spring, which is the one that deals with returning the brake pedal to it's normal position fits from a hole in the pivot part of the brake pedal to a hole in the exhaust bracket. The spring for the brake light switch is a little more difficult (both to descibe, and fit - as I recall!) but it runs from the hole in the switch arm up to a clip fitting which I believe is held on further up the brake pivot arm by a split pin arrangement. The hard bit is setting the the switch to activate when the pedal is used and released. Hope this helps. Good luck with the MOT!

Hi Daz Is it the pedal or the switch that you have the problem with? There are a couple of springs here - one big one for the pedal, and a small one for the switch - I will try and post some pictures later. Geoff

Hi - Good to hear you are getting your hands dirty- and you're a girl!!! Seriously - is the acid you have obtained neat or diluted - coz it needs to be at a specific gravity for batteries, if it has been supplied ready for the battery you are probably ok. A word of caution battery acid is nasty stuff and will eat through your clothes at the very least, trust me.....I know! so be careful when filling - then as above advice: 1. Fill between max and min levels 2. Let it stand overnight. 3. Trickle charge it for a good few hours. 4. Fit and enjoy! Good luck.

Hi You certainly need a trickle charger suitable for bikes - which probably means an output no higher than 1amp - don't use a car charger unless you want to 'cook' your battery! Ebay's ok for most things, but my experience was that the trickle chargers here were no cheaper than you could by elsewhere (and be able to return it if you have a problem!) If you are finding the battery is not holding the charge for long - discharge it and then 'deep charge' it with the trickle charger - you should find this helps. Good luck