fosdyke

Hi 20:1 is usually a good ratio for standard 2 stroke engines. Do you have a picture of the bike ?

I'm with the Tallguy, though the Penguins have me a bit worried! TG - you missed out the 'safety' information which is currently growing like weeds in Kent warning of 'Crash site' and depicting a motorcycle. These are found on roads where there are more crashes of the 4 wheel variety - where are those signs!!!! They just hate us.....

Always up for a rideout in kent/sussex. Were in Ashford but go out all over Kent and East sussex...............drop us a line

Hi Quite a collection - good to see someone still into 250's!! And welcome aboard............keep in touch even when you've found the manuel!

Verrrrry nice!! Welcome aboard Bob

Have you got a picture?

Hi You didn't say how long you have had the bike and if this is a new problem. If the the smoke is blueish white and you get clouds of it when you first start up it sounds like valve stem, or seal wear, not really good for 3000 miles! When you checked the throttle operation did you observe the card operation at the same time? - sounds like the throttle is slightly sticky or you need to check freeplay in the cable. The trick with the throttle-stop screw could be down to: 1. The enrichment/choke not working properly - check ALL airways etc are clear. 2. Heavy contamination with oil weakening the mxture - does the bike appear to be using oil? I am not surprised that he spark plug is carbon fouled if you are having the screw in the throttle-stop screw, this will enrichen the mixture, plug colours can only really be checked after 'normal' running. Compression test worth doing - also have you checked valve and ignition timing? Good luck

Hi Are you still running the auto-lube system or using pre-mix? This could be a problem with oil delivery weakening the spark, or there is a problem with the carb which only shows up under load. When you had the carb out did you check for wear in the needle valve etc? Or you could have an ignition fault - badly pitted points or faulty condenser - check all of these things, especially standard settings before ruling anything out. Good luck.

Looks great! Restored my YB earlier this year - after some b*****ds had nicked and torched it 4 years ago! Used it to practice for big test - now passed on to the other half to do hers! - Don't think i'll part with it now.......ahhhh I love the smell of a two-stroke in the morning....... Keep biking!!!

Hi Glad CBT went well - big bike test next! Clip position 2 means the position the main needle jet/valve is set to - if you have taken the carb to bits you should see that the long brass needle is held on by a circlip set into a particular groove - position 2 is the groove position counted from the top (I think) - It should be set at this as a matter of course but worth checking.

Hi Sounds like it could be weak coz you should get a good belt off it when you kick it over. Things to check 1. Don't assume that because you changed the HT lead it is ok - check the connections and try another just to make sure. 2. Take off the cap and see if the spark is any better from the bare HT lead. 3. Make sure the LT side of the ignition is ok - so check condition of points, gap and make sure timimg is ok. 4. Check the wiring and connections from the points etc to the coil - make sure the electrical connections are good. If all this fails you probably have a faulty coil - but this is rare it's more likely to be a poor connection or LT fault . Good luck

That's a bit harsh Yoda - ah the romance of the little yammy strokers with the crap electrics!! Seriously - if you look after them they'll go for miles and miles so Switzerland and back should be no problem - I've got a mate who's been all they way down to Portugal and back on a psychadellic Honda 90, and is contemplating Italy next year and across the states the year after so anything is possible. What you have to remember with these bikes is: 1. Take plenty of spare spark plugs. 2. Remember that the 6v electrics are pretty crap so travelling at night is like peering into the gloom with a half dead torch, and braking + indicating at the same time is just too much! 3. The ride is none too comfy so be prepared for plenty of stops . 4. Recommended reading before you go - Travels with a Donkey... by Robert Louis Stevenson Good luck....and if you go send us the piccy's

Try Estonia - yeah Estonia!!! Welcome aboard Mr C

Hi Glad to hear that your missus is gonna be a biker too For the record here are the seetings you need - but also remember that as it's a 2 stroke good crankase/carb seals are critical to getting the bike to idle well. Air screw turns out 2 & a quarter Float height 21mm +/- 1mm Idle speed 1400rpm +/- 50rpm Clip position 2 Start the bike and get it up to temperature then set the air screw as above and adjust the idle screw to obtain a reliable tickover. If this doesn't work I would dismantle the carb and make sure the idle circuit airways are clear by blowing compressed air through them, and making sure the idle jet is not obstructed. If this makes no difference then you need to look at the oil seals on the bike you can test this by spraying WD40 on the seals and seeing if that makes a difference to the running. Good luck PS don't forget to tell the missus that when you brake the indicators go dim or stop - good old 6v systems!!

hi What is the mileage on the bike? Sounds like the carb may be worn giving an over-rich mixture permanently, if you have checked and double-checked the settings then this sounds like the most likely problem. Good luck

Glad you got it sorted. What bike are you getting next?

Hi 'loose wires' - do you mean unconnected or just extra length? if the latter - have you re-checked for a spark, as it sounds as if you may have a faulty wire or connection. I would re-check all your connections whilst checking for a spark at the same time. Beyond that you are going to need a wiring diagram. Good luck

Hi Have you checked the HT lead and plug cap? I am not familiar with this bike - but I would have thought that it used pulse generator coils or something similar to create the sparks - have you checked all the wiring to these, and the operation of the pulse generator itself? You can check out the resistance of the coils if you have an ohmeter and the specs, if everything here seems ok, you probably have a defective CDI unit. Good luck Geoff

Hi I had the same thing thing on my Suzuki - the only thing you can do is to check the routing of the throttle cable to make sure it doesn't catch on anything and that it moves freely when the handlebars are turned. I ended up pulling as much cable through from the carbs and zip-tying it to a bracket to allow excess at the handlebars. Good luck Geoff

Hi Sounds like fuel enrichment/carb settings problem - are you starting with the choke out? Also you have replaced the plug and cleaned the carb - did you check the compression readings? It could be that the carb is just worn out, or there still maybe a small blockage in one of the jets or passageways - they are really small, have you had the bike long? Geoff

Hi Have you cleaned and checked the carb? sounds like a fuel mixture problem if it runs ok with the choke out. You should also check the autolube settings as this will affect the mixture too. Good luck Geoff

Hi Sounds like the float valve is faulty or not shutting off the fuel when the float bowl is full - you need to dismantle the carb and check the valve operation and float height settings. Good luck

Hi Have you tried a new plug? This sounds like an ignition circuit problem which you will need to runthrough methodically - have you recently acquired the bike? - and when did it last run? Most likely the fault is in the low tension side - probably the points, but you need to check everything, really you are going to need a wiring diagram and an electrical tester, but check the simple things first: Make sure all the connectors are ok and connected in the headlight. Take off the engine cover and check the condition and operation of the points. Beyond this you are going to need a tester to verify the coil/condensor etc. Good luck

Hi Fuel is going in to carb - but is it coming out? - if you pull the plug can you see/smell petrol on the plug? Try a drop (and I mean a drop) of petrol down the pot to see if it 'pops'. Have you tried the thumb over the plug hole to test for compression? On the basis that work was done on the rings I would start here first.

Hi Sounds like its running rich - so check and reset carbs as a first - also check timing as well.