Chris Heath

Hi there, Yam dealer may be able to help you in the first instance. Failing that try the DVLA Vehicle Enquiry Site at: http://www.vehiclelicence.gov.uk/EvlPortal...?SKIN=directgov - select the tab 'Vehicle Enquiry' and supply the details it asks for and it goes some way to providing information about the vehicle. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, is it the 2 cog type? If so, I think it's a question of putting a feeler blade between the cogs to check the gap. If it's outside tolerance the cogs can't 'squash' the oil hard enough to pressurise the pipe. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, glad you found it! The norm is that the fuse blows and gets replaced with whatever's to hand. What you need to do is check the bulb ratings (in watts) and add up the current requirements to see if 7.5 is big enough. You want the smallest fuse possible capable of dealing with a continuous load (in amps). If you re-arrange Ohm's law you get power (watts) = volts x amps. If you re-arrange this you get watts / volts = amps. So if you have a 12 volt system for instance and you take out your headlamp bulb and it's rated at say 24 watts you divide this by the voltage (12) and get 2 (amps). Follow this through for all the systems that would be on continuously (like the lights, front and rear) and you start to get an idea as to the fuse rating. Bear in mind that indicators and brake lights are only on intermittently unless you spend a lot of time waiting at junctions to turn off. People sometimes over-rate the headlamp bulbs etc. to get better vision and may uprate the fuse. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, at the risk of sounding silly hark back to the old saying 'all roads lead to London' and then apply the notion to the bike and think: 'all wires lead to fuses'. When all else fails follow the power side 'backwards' as it were and it should ultimately take you somewhere. It may be that on the smaller machines they don't have that many circuit dedicated fuses and the circuit protection may be incorporated into a larger / general one. They're usually placed to be weather proofed but accessible. Under the seat and behind side panels is the best starting place. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, I would humbly suggest you remove the cable and inspect it in its entirety, it may be in the processing of snapping and thereby stretching (which produces some peculiar symptoms). Whilst the cable is off, manually operate the carbs to see if it revs thereby providing you with more reference for you analysis. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, I'm not sure I fully understand the test you carried out that unfortunately resulted in the damaged float. Take heart, the same thing happened to me when I stripped the TZR carb. These float arrangements are desperately, DESPERATELY fiddly and subject to very fine tolerance. You may have noticed a small tab on the float hinge that is used to adjust the height when the chamber fills with fuel, this may have been mal-adjusted when the you first encountered the problem or the fibrous seat washer may have decayed. I strongly suggest you use this 'opportunity' to inspect the rest of the carb to see if anything else is amiss. The parts are usually easy to source, it's just a question of how much you can afford. I'm lucky in that I had a bike breaker near me who sold me a fully functioning carb for £20 which went a long way to sorting some of the trouble and provided me with some useful spares. Ebay is always a good source for these things because they're easy to find because they have such a powerful search engine. Do try your Yam dealer just as a reference point. Traditionally people shy away from main dealers due to a reputation for high prices but I've found that's not always the case. Most often with carbs however the main dealer mantra seems to be 'if it's outside the carb we can get it, if it's in the carb, it's a new carb jobby'. Also (this may sound silly) but consider an entire bike that's a write off because you'll get what you need hopefully and a whole lot more. Hope this helps! Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, I had something similar on a TZR 125 although the leakage was worse when the bike was switched off. My investigations at the time led naturally to the carb and also to the fuel cap which had a routing machined into it to allow venting. What appeared to have happened was that the vent had become blocked from the bike living outside and the fuel tank was pressurising with the heat generated by the engine (because it was right above it and fuel expands with rising temperature). Have you checked the venting in the fuel cap? Add to that the TZR looked as if it should have had a vacuum operated fuel tap etc. which had been modified etc. etc.! Hope this helps. Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hmm, could be a candidate then, transistors get very funny when they're starting to break down and are severely influenced by temperature. Often one problem is the heatsinking, partially due sometimes to the thermal transfer compound being washed out on mating surfaces. When it cuts out can you still get a spark ? Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, is it YPVS? Can't remember on those. It does sound a bit 'fuelly', have you checked the filter(s)? Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, I think you need to consider certain things if you wish to go down this route. Most of them are extremely basic like 'are the connections the same' etc. The more major issues take the form of the amount of power required by the whole electrical system which is provided by the battery and the reg/rec. The main thing here is the alternator and its wiring configuration (delta star) etc. and how much power it can produce. I would suggest therefore that you might want to do some analysis on the system to determine its power requirements and see if your new / alternative unit is suitably rated (electrically speaking). The rectifier basically does the same job where ever it's used (convert ac into dc) but can only deliver power on the basis of the size of the diodes. If you wire up other bits and it goes wrong you might get some nasty spikes (ac) on the system which can often peak in excess of 30 volts. Hope this helps? Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, is it electronic ignition? If it is, could be a case of thermal breakdown? Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, the line in the oil viewing window is where the oil should be once you've filled it up. It's often empty when the bike is running but shoud come back when it's switched off. I had an earlier model TZR but I thought the YPVS was cable operated off the throttle. Is yours electronic then? They're not normally connected when the bike is restricted. Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there, as I recall the magneto will produce power to charge the capacitive discharge unit (if that's what you've got). The ignition module may be suffering thermal breakdown due to overheating (ok when cool, fails when hot). If you could check this against one that you know is working? Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi, as I recall on the TZR there is an earth connection for the coil that often corrodes. As the unit is above the engine and under the tank it tends to suffer with heat and trapped moisture. Check the coil readings as well against the manual. I think they're electronic so you'll be looking at relatively low impedances. Kind regards, Chris Heath

Hi there. Don't know specifically for your model but as a general solution there may be 2 things to look for. A lot of the smaller bikes have what looks like a penny washer in the intake (often between the carb and head) that restricts the airflow. If it has and you remove it you may have to adjust the mixture (richer I think). If it's electronic, suggest you refer to a cct diagram and check carefully because often earthing these things out makes the system think that you're exceeding the rev limit (small connection on back of counter usually). Kind regards, Chris Heath