125fightingmachine

No, no new relay has been fitted mate.

It's a bulb relay, we took out the old indicators (single wire) and swapped out for new two wire bulb indicators - as they were two wire indies we earthed the negative wire to the frame. And no they don't flash they're a steady Amber

Hi all, have got a wee problem.. Have just stuck some new indicators on the bike and they are coming on when the bike is turned off? Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Cheers, Louis

Spot on mate, will try extending them today! Grounding to the forks just seems a little dodgy as pilninggas has said above..

These wee buggers are modern and are screw ins.. No clamps.. Here's an interesting question though - I'm going to extend the wires. Does anyone know whether or not I can just strip a pair of wires off an old set of indicators that are similar or does the wire gauge and type have to be exact/bought? cheers for now, Louis

Cheers man

Hi guys, am fixing up a bike - took off old indicators (single wire) and swapped out for new twin wire indicators. Have connected the positive wire up but the negative is needing a place to be ground to. For the rear two I have ground to the frame but as for the front pair, well there not going to reach the frame. What do I do? Can I ground the wires to the forks or do I have to extend the wires to the frame..? Any ideas greatly appreciated. happy riding, Louis

Hi guys. I've topped a lead acid battery to the upper level, stuck it on trickle charge till fully charged. It's fallen to the lower level now... When I top it up to the upper now do I have to charge again or should I be alright? Bye for now, Louis

sounds like quite a dawnting task so might take it into the bike shop at some point. Could be a while from now as we live so far up north

hit the nail on the head there vario! Sounds about right.. Will take the side cover off over the next couple of days. Cheers for all the help p.s. She's still stuck

Just been out to check oil level and she's sitting pefectly at top mark. Bike always gets well looked after. I'm not getting spark from the engine either btw...

Hi guys, I was on my way to work the other day - bike was running the best she's ever ran and 5 mins later she was losing a bit of power, then engine started sounding rough and next conked out making the most horrible noise ever from the engine. Engine was extremely overheated, kickstart is stuck at top and electric start won't turn over. Anyone any ideas all the best n happy riding, Louis

Hi guys, I was on my way to work the other day - bike was running the best she's ever ran and 5 mins later she was losing a bit of power, then engine started sounding rough and next conked out making the most horrible noise ever from the engine. Engine was extremely overheated, kickstart is stuck at top and electric start won't turn over. Anyone any ideas all the best n happy riding, Louis

PROBLEM SOLVED - spark plug had died which led to it getting covered in fuel, and that also explains the unburned fuel..

I've also got an oil fouled spark plug

I can now keep her running only on full choke at full throttle but all I'm smelling is unburned gas

I'm sorry jimmy but your missing the point bud (maybe I wasn't explaining myself clear enough) - I start her on full choke but she cuts out after 3-4 seconds Almost like she's not getting enough choke

It's got a carburetor btw, sorry forgot to mention that. Jimmy, I've started her on full choke and she cuts out after about 3-4 seconds.. That's the problem in hand. If I give her a very wee amount of throttle she'll stay running a little longer but will splutter like mad!

Cheers for that malky, I've got a day off tomorrow as I'm ill so I'll get down to the bottom of it then! I'm fine with carbs etc so that's not an issue. It's a ybr 125 2007 model. Have just been outside to start her up -started on full choke, dropped down to half and instantly died..

Hi guys, This is actually the first time ever my bike has refused to start! So I stick choke on, start her up, she'll tick over fine for about 3-4 seconds then suddenly cut out.. Last night I was going to do a valve clearance adjustment - took all the timing caps etc off then realized my feeler gauge is all rusted and I can't see the numbers so I stuck all the caps back on and left her. Do you think this could in some way be related to my problem? All help grately appreciated. Happy riding, Louis

Right, so pretty happy today as I sorted the brake problem - I'd bought pads that were ever so slightly bigger than the stock pads. The piston pushed it forward but it didn't spring back (got wedged in). Shaped into the stock pad shape we were good to go. Also when I bled the brakes I didn't give the lever a few final pulls to push the piston all the way out, resulting in a lot of lever play.

Hi guys, another question for yous. I've changed the brake pads on my bike and bled the system. What could be causing a lot of play in the lever before the caliper activates as the lever is hitting my fingers when I pull back - I like to have two fingers still on the throttle when I go to brake.. Cheers for now, Louis

Cheers guys appreciate the replys. Will let you know how I get on. If the slider pins are sticking, this could cause sticking brakes couldn't it?

Cheers for that slice have changed the brake piston, seals, pads and fluid. When I took the old pads out they were getting worn unevenly - could this be over tightening the front axle (pulling the forks in closer together maybe?) It's a ybr 125.. Would dodgy wheel bearings come on and off (stiffening the wheel up every day or two?

Hi guys, have been having a bit of bother with a stiff front wheel for a while now - has been on and off. I'm looking at the piston and am wondering if it's meant to sit flush with the caliper or if it's meant to rise above the caliper by about 2-3mm. Cheers, Louis. Happy riding