anyoldiron

Problem is dies are tapered so its hard to be accurate, thread gauge is best if you can

Oh grow the fuck up , really!! You want to go o a crusade, fix your/our own fucking house first, the British are/have been world class leaders in a manner of nasty and NECESSARY ways to kill people (of which i was proudly a part off), its called war, its one of the things that need to happen to prevent the place where you live on being called a ''Strasse'' in something called a ''grad'' as in Stalinfuckinggrad!! Apologies OP

Why am i thinking that probably wouldnt work

l have one of those Chinese 'disco' kits from evil bay on my R1 for about 2 years now, fitting took a bit of fettling, i gotta say i was expecting it to be total shite, much to my surprise the finish is very good as is the paint, all decals under clear. They are holding up great , i will be getting another set for a ZX7R hybrid, and i am not easy to please

The ''R' Cynic, that must be for racing eh, or rare? l dont think it stands for ''ridiculous'' as in claims that it will do 85mph (on the road), but i could be wrong, it has been known.

My 99 r1 dose 190 pinned Jeezus,fuggin wept

lts a good skill to have, i used to do it a fair bit back in the day...........................when it didnt matter if shit got hacked up. To be honest its a PITA job, Even with the correct levers its easy to pinch a tube or gouge a rim and end up upside down. My tame shop will do one for about a tenner, i wont touch them now. l use tubeless tires with tubes on spoke wheels a lot, have been for years, not much of a option in a lot of cases, it doesnt bother me(,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but im not doing it on Superbikes, just sub 50hp kinda stuff).So tube tire on tubeless rim, l would do it, but then again.........................

Thanks Everyone Spent a bit more time on the FZR, ive ordered a bunch of rubber odds and sods, and a battery. lts running way better now,however the carbs do need a bit more work. lm getting some really nice panels together, i dont want to mess with the original ones at all, i will just set them aside. When i have a full set i will get my tame painter to blend the age with clear and a lil Ochra if necessary lm going to do a major service as well, might as well check the valve clearances while im at it, so will be tilting engine forward, not taking it out lts going to be done in fits and starts as ive got my house to finish

l picked up this FZR from a general auction (mainly farm equipment in Western Canada) on Thursday, lt has under 3000km on the clock lt is complete, apart from mirrors and fan, i just took the rest off for transportation. lts in pretty good shape dirty mostly with some light corrosion. l spent yesterday going through it, i found missing fan, oil overfilled by 2.5L (fortunately it was spotless) and some minor bodging at the engine cut-off wiring. l managed to get its running, it has one weak coil and needs the carbs syncing l thought long and hard about what to do with this bike (friggin 10 day auction) and have gone from complete nut and bolt resto, to fuck all, and all stations in=between, and this is what i decided. l am going to sympathetically restore it, im going to take it apart , not totally, (not the engine) clean service and reassemble with new consumables, no paint, i will do repairs to prevent further damage (plasti welding a side cover crack for instance) This is mainly rumour so take it as you will. Most Yamahas start off new models with serial # .............0101, the units #ed 1-100 are know as ''pre production'' and where given to Collages ,major dealers, race teams etc to be used as training aids, practice bikes etc. The where supposed to be returned to Yamaha and or destroyed when done with. So thats the general story ive heard in bits and bobs over the years. This is what i can tell you for sure, this bike has the vin to go with the engine #, it has some ID stickers and unit #s on it from a now amalgamated collage. Judging by bolt and screw heads lt appears to have only been used for certain disciplines, timing and clutch work. When i start the resto im sure i will find others, so part of the story seems to hold true. lm going to get the registration sorted today,then get the parts i need together. So, being that its 881 miles to get this bike..................each way, i picked this up on the way 1974,TX500 with 1688 miles, i have all the rest of the parts, the engine is stuck, perhaps due to sitting since 1975 and the tank is fucked, the second owner used the apple vinegar trick to get some surface rust of the inside, worked very well apparently, i believe him, he didnt rise it afterwards and a year later it has holes and i mean holes. Anyway, its soaking and im looking for a nice used tank, when i find one i will get going on it in a new thread, until then reassemble, polish as i think it will look grand in the lounge

Personally, i think powder coating on frames is way overrated, its way too thick, cannot be touched up, and is a pain in the arse to tap&die all the threads or find nuts and bolts for them. All my restos now get sprayed the ''old fashioned way, here its no more expensive than powder-coating, and you get to save vin labels etc and you can still see the stamped vin #s, which seems to virtually disseapper when powder-coated.

All my stuff on the laptop gets automatically saved on a cloud , so that when the laptop finally dies on me im so sick of them at that point i shoot them round the yard with my 12 bore and some 00 buckshot..........................................very very satisfying.

Second bike i ever rode, first bike i ever looped out

............................................l only logged on for another installment of "Grouches scaffolding shenanigans''

Stewie. lm not familiar with your model, but the problem sounds like something that i had on a bike that gave the same symptions as you describe. Does your bike have a stator (they look something like the picture)? The problem with these buggers are that over time and heat cycles the insulation on the windings breaks down. They will test fine when cold, the bike will start and run fine, but as soon as it gets hot and the windings expand they short out and the bikes dies. http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab316/Canadiancountrycabins/Marks/s-l500 1_zpsnp6dnigo.jpg

Showing off Matee, would be listing all of them, as many do