Derekm

2007 XVS 1100 Classic. Front downpipe could do with re-chroming. Just had the pipe off for an oil & filter change and found that there is the front chromed section and under the heat shield, the rear section, which fits inside the front, is black. Is this rear part removable or is it welded in place please? I don't want to start braying on it if it is welded!

Quite happy. The towbars on my last 4 cars had their electrics connected with Scotchlocks and there was never a problem. Exposed to the elements I could understand, but protected inside the vehicle or light unit is OK for me.

The strobes aren't that bright and they're mounted inside the red cover with the standard bulb. Easy to cover with tape for MOT if needed. What's wrong with Scotchlocks at 12 volts and near zero current?

Received the above lights a couple of days ago. Excellent & well finished. Machined aluminium and a very bright light. Recommended. Also for anyone interested, strobe stop lights, fitted in 15 minutes inside the rear lamp cover. Derisory price of £1.40!!!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201562727306?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Easily fitted with one snap connector like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QUICK-SPLICE-SCOTCH-LOCK-WIRE-CONNECTORS-ELECTRICAL-CRIMP-TERMINALS-CABLE-SNAP-/200995966830?var=&hash=item2ecc4b0f6e:m:mo72eqYlLRJxLJzptlPHt4Q

Just ordered a pair of these for my V Star 1100, but they haven't arrived yet so can't comment. They only use 5 watts each, so won't take anything out of your battery. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222211306963?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

When I first posted the question, I wasn't intending checking the clearances for a few days, hence didn't want to bother with removing plug covers, plugs, jacking up the bike etc.. Not having redone tappets on a bike for 50 years, on my T100 as a teenager, I was trying to get everything sorted in my head in advance!

Because there were no early replies, I did it the "hard" way (!). Plugs out, into 3rd and turned rear wheel forwards. Engine turns clockwise; Clymer is right (unsurprisingly).

I have a Clymer manual for the bike & it says to turn the engine clockwise (looking from nearside) to get TDCs and align timing marks. Looking on YouTube, the clip below says to turn anticlockwise. Which is correct please?

Thanks, I'll do that.

Does anyone know of a UK source of lower wind deflectors for a V Star 1100 please? Everything I've come across so far has been in the USA with silly postal charges!

I'm curious. Do both cylinders fire on the same revolution or on alternate revolutions? Ditto for the Harleys, as they seem to have a different sound.

The book says Yamalube 4 10W30 or 20W40, but no mention of type. Yam do mineral, semi-synth & full synth. and unfortunately, their prices are rather "imaginative". Yam don't make oils, so what are their oils exactly? I know about avoiding many car oils, because of friction reducing additives & clutch slip, but my local dealer said he recently serviced a VS 1100 for a customer, used their stock, branded motorcycle specific oil (don't remember the brand) and the customer came back complaining of clutch slip. In my previous 2 machines, Suzuki Katana 650 and Bonneville 850, I used Unipart semi-synth and had no problems, but the clutch slip phenomena seems to be a trait of V Stars & Viragos as I understand things. Advice from long term V Star owners appreciated.

Have you got a link or a web address for your German supplier please?

Cheers guys. With some tyres lasting 5k or less and others running to 15k, one wonders how the hell they manage to sell the high wear ones, especially for cruisers & tourers. The powers of marketing I guess.

Thanks for that TM. You've confirmed my gut feeling, but with a heavy cruiser being so different from a sports bike, I felt it wise to ask. Before my Bonny I had a 650 Katana. The original Bridgestones lasted 5.2k and the bike dropped into corners badly. Replaced with Pirelli Phantoms (spit!). Dropped in just as bad and worn out in 2.5k!!!! Avon RoadRiders next, just before selling. Seemed to wear really well and handling was perfect & neutral.

Recently bought a V Star 1100 Classic with only 5200 miles on it. The rear tyre had already been changed and the front, presumably original Dunlop D404 is down to 2mm already. This doesn't seem very clever at all to me. My last bike, a Hinckley Bonny on Metzelers still had lots of meat left after 6300miles and it seemed to me that it would be good for 10k, maybe more. What should be a decent mileage for a V Star and what tyres would you guys recommend, for good mileage, handling and grip, please?

I take your point about near the coast, but the Bonny was no problem with bare polished alloy. I'm only a fairweather, low mileage rider!

Well, I went for the small scissor jack:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Scissors-Stand-Motorbike-Jacks-Mechanical-Mini-Lifts-1100lb-500kg/291402911742?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3De0d5fe6550514ea8944b93bf1924bfe3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D311502073980 Very solid & well made and the support cups are rubber coated to protect the frame. I had to cut off some of the support collars and also make a ramp from a couple of pieces of 3/4 ply (to go under front or rear wheel) to get the unit under the bike. Easy to then lift the bike and it is stable for working/cleaning. Only lifted one wheel at a time so far but would be happy raising the bike fully, but would put axle stands under the wheels to prevent fore/aft tilting. Overall a compact, economical and useful piece of kit if some common sense is applied.

I've a 2007 XVS 1100, built for the Jap, Hawaii and US markets. There appears to be some sort of lacquer on the shiny surfaces of the cast alloy wheels and some "white rust" has found it's way underneath. Does anyone know the best way to remove the lacquer completely, without damaging the painted/coated centre section please? I don't ride in the winter and a couple of sessions with Autosol each year is no hardship - and I like the polished finish!

Has anyone got one of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/60mm-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Speedometer-Tachometer-Gauge-0-13000RPM-12V-For-Honda-/331426150458 Do they operate on a 2 cylinder bike? If "yes" Where does the "Signal" wire connect to please?

Buy or borrow one of these:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-LCD-Multimeter-Multitester-AC-DC-Voltmeter-Ammeter-OHM-Circuit-Checker-/131572794442?hash=item1ea259844a:g:EVUAAOSwLVZVwhAy Set on DC volts and check battery voltage. Should be about 12v.Get someone to press the starter button and see what the voltage drops to. If it's much less than 9 or 10 volts (from memory) you've most probably got just a duff battery. Even if you have to take it in for something else, the meter will stand you in good stead for lots of jobs.

Probably low electrolyte level or dead battery as above. You have enough voltage to make a spark when you kick start, but when you press the starter, you could be trying to draw 150 amps or even more, depending on the bike. The voltage drops right down, too low to power the ignition.

The footprint of the 2 point is 18" across the bike, by 12" down the length (with the "ears"), so wider than a centre stand. With an axle stand in front and behind the jack for security it could be a safe possibility I think? The other type with a modded platform would be better I agree; still waiting for platform dimensions though. A pity no-one makes a lift with a suitable platform for XVSs. Your link looks ideal, but the price!!!! (and it would still need a modded platform by the looks.

I'll be picking up a 2007 XVS 1100 Dragstar in the next couple of weeks and have been looking at jacks/lifts in readiness. This 2 point jack looks useful for lifting one wheel or the other, but can anyone say if it can be used safely to completely remove either wheel? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Scissors-Stand-Motorbike-Jacks-Mechanical-Mini-Lifts-1100lb-500kg/291402911742?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3De0d5fe6550514ea8944b93bf1924bfe3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D311502073980 The other, probably more useful option, is one of this type:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1500lbs-Hydraulic-Motorcycle-Lift-Motorbike-ATV-Quad-Jack-Jet-Ski-Moped-Ramp-/131402718695?hash=item1e98365de7:g:0MsAAOSw8d9UtUA- but the problem is the projecting sump. I am waiting for the supplier to give me the dimensions of the lifting platform, so meantime, can someone please tell me what distance is required between the lifting bars, to safely avoid the sump?

OK, thanks.