Jetscrazy87

So i covered the intake on the carb and choked the carb and flooded it. After that it fired up, but died out as soon as I opened the up the throttle. I guess the pod filter is going to be a problem...looks like I'm going to rejet the carb.

Hey guys it been a while. So I'm back at it with the Sr after a long winter. Charged up the battery and tried to fire it up the other day and it won't run. There was no fuel in the carb while sitting and just for good measure I still took the carb off and cleaned it. Everything looked good except my diaphragm has a small wear mark on it. Thinking I'm gonna have to replace that...anyway, I have spark but it's acting like it isn't getting any fuel. I have fuel in the bowl the needle valve is working but it just keeps turning over but not firing. I currently have no air filter or anything on the carb...am I getting to much air or should it start anyway? Also will the diaphragm make it not run? Any advice is appreciated! it does have the stock 34mm cv carb.

As promised here is a picture of my ALMOST complete sr250. I still need to repair and paint the gas tank, button up the last few solder connections for the taillight, and install the headlight and LED flasher relay and install side mirrors. Hope you guys like it.

ok so i figured it out...i mixed up the plugs, there is one that goes from the stator to the rectifier and then from the rectifier to the head light bucket. they have identical plug ends and in my tired stooper i mixed them up. When i went out there this morning i traced it back and picked up on it right away. Swapped the plugs and everything works as it should. My wife callled it, she said i bet its something stupid and you're tired, go back out in the morning and you'll find it...sure as can be she was right.

so yesterday was a lonnngg day, sorry if my last post seemed like i was crying a bit, but after all this work i've been doing all i wanted to do was fire it up at the end of the day being it was the first time it sat on two wheels in months! Anyway, after a decent nights sleep I'm going to go back out to the garage and figure this out...my first thought is the neutral switch and here is why. As long as i had the bike the neutral light never worked, then when i changed the stator the light came on. the resistance of the pick up coil on the new stator was the same as my old one. I have continuity from the switch to the headlight bucket and when i shift out of neutral i don't loose that continuity. Previous owner before me had the bike under a tarp in the back yard sitting for a couple years. lastly when i pulled the old stator assembly out of the motor there was a seal and i lost a lot of oil, im wondering if when i pulled that assembly out i made the neutral switch unstick? I'm going to pull the neutral switch in a little bit and clean it up and put it back. I can't find a new one, if anyone knows where i can find one please let me know. it'll suck to find out i spent 75 bucks on this new stator assembly and the whole time it was just the neutral switch. thanks fellas!

Update...so since installing the new stator and pickup coil the bike has been running great. Since then, I have started to finish up the bike. Today my new sprockets and chain came in the mail, so I reassembled the rear and routed all the electrics to how I wanted them. I didn't make any splices or changes since getting it running in fear something might not work again, well guess what something isn't working again! The major sign of my problem is no spark and loss of neutral light again...I am praying nothing major is wrong, but how could it be? NOTHING has changed! Only electrical changes made were new ground wire and new positive wire from the battery to the solenoid and elongated the started wire to the solenoid. Lets take a step back to the issue prior...same symptoms, no spark, no neutral light. its clear the two are related, so my question is this...is there any way possible that something is frying the pick up coil/solenoid? or do you think its just a faulty neutral switch? The only reason I slightly doubt the neutral switch is that the instant I put that new stator and pickup coil in the neutral light worked fine. Any help would be amazing as I just spent another 100 dollars in parts to finish the bike and I am supposed to drop the tank off for repair Monday which is costing me a fortune. Hate to find out I'm wasting all my money.

Only concern i have is that someone already used a tank sealer of some kind and im not sure if you can just go over it with the por15

Thanks guys its running great now. I have a couple of leaks in my tank so now i need to address that. Any ideas. Thanks for all the advice guys! I promise a few pictures when its done.

I have a pod air filter. Ive read of people having issues with air restrictions with these. Anyone have any knowledge of this?

Hey guys i replaced the complete stator and pickup coil assembly and now i have a beautiful bright blue spark! Now i put some fuel into the carb and tried to fire it up, but im not having any success. I did open the carb up and clean it when i picked the bike up but it doesn't want to start. I shot a little ether in the cylinder and it fired off ran for a second then shut off as i suspected it would. Any suggestions?

Ok so i bought a NOS TCI and thats not the problem. Only other thing i can try to replace is pickup coil. Blackhat ill give that a try thanks for the suggestion.

here's an update...i still have no spark, i actually cant even get the spark i was getting when just pushing the button...i installed a new coil. fully charged the battery, and even moved the ground from the frame to the engine. still i have nothing, at this point I am at a cross roads...i have put a lot of time into this bike, but I paid next to nothing for it, so do I keep wasting my time on something that i cant find the parts for(CDI box) or do i sell it for whatever i can get? I am trying to find someone who has the same bike, so i can test out my CDI(TDI)box but it seems they are hard to find and ebay has nothing as of now...any input or ideas would be great.

so i cranked the engine with a drill instead of using the ignition system and I got no spark what so ever. when cranking with the starter with my multimeter at the coil I drop into the lower 10v range.

The battery is brand new...i will charge it anyway but it has 12.8v...im really struggling here, ill put a charger on the batter...is there anything else you can think of? If this doesnt work i think i might start opening up the harness and looking for bad wires and shorts.

it's a little more complicated then that, the ground for the switch is actually a metal tab that bites the handle bar and creates the ground. That tab wasn't biting through the paint and I wasn't getting good ground, so i alligator clipped from the ground in my headlight bucket to the switch and that fixed that. Now i could actually use the start button to crank the engine instead of jumping the solenoid. But i still have a spark problem...when i press the start button i see a nice bright spark but as soon as i continue to hold the button down the spark disappears....if i hit the button intermittently i see a spark every time, if i hold the button down i lose it. Any ideas?

Update from this morning. I figured out why the starter switch wasn't worker, it wasn't bad contacts it was bad ground. After fixing that and cleaning the contacts on the harness to the tci box i finally saw a spark! Yea this is an exciting feet being ive been messing with this spark issue for a week now. But its not all good yet...when i press the start button i see a nice bright spark but as soon as i continue to hold the button down the spark disappears....if i hit the button intermittently i see a spark every time, if i hold the button down i lose it. Any ideas?

The ignition witch is brand new. The starter button doesnt work but thats just bad contacts.

Ok so just wanted to post a little update. I ordered a new ignition coil to see if that would fix the high resistance on the secondary side of the coil turns out that the wire to the plug from the coil is actually the cause of the high resistance. I reterminated the end of the plug wire and there was still 17.5 k ohms of resistance. I completely did away with the plug cap and had the proper 8.5 ohms of resistance. Tried the wire strait to the plug and grounded to the head and no spark. Only thing left is the cdi box. Oh and i still have a constant 12v on the plug wire all the time, that still makes no sense to me. Any help would be great.

I grounded out the neutral switch and still no spark. I double checked the ignition coil. The primary was 3ohms and the secondary was 19k ohms...I've looked up what the bike specs but ive gotten mixed results. Does anyone know off hand what the manual calls for? The secondary numbers i got were from 8-10k ohms, if thats right and im 7k over, is thats the problem ?

thanks, ill make a thread with some pics soon,,,right now i'm trying to pick the brains of some the yamaha masters lol im having some spark issues right now!

thank you for your response...the bike does have a clutch switch as well which i have to earth...but still no spark. My neutral light doesn't seem to work for some reason. How does the neutral switch work? is it constant 12v switched or switched ground? Anyway with the neutral switch bypassed (clutch switch to earth) i hear the safety relay click which makes me believe its working, but still no spark! this is getting very frustrating...im almost done with my build but these electrical issues are driving me nuts! anymore help or ideas are greatly appreciated!

Hey everyone, I'm one of the new guys and I'm in need of some assistance...If you haven't seen my introduction thread please check it out! Now to the task at hand...i have a 1980 sr250 I picked up a couple months back for next to nothing...it was in decent condition and I thought it would make for a rather inexpensive and fun tracker project. Anyway, I've hit a brick wall with it this week, for some reason I can't get this thing to spark. I checked the resistance on the ignition coil primary and secondary, pick up coil, and the starting solenoid...everything checked out good, but this is where it gets weird. when the ignition switch is on and the stop/run switch in run, I get a constant 12v on the spark plug wire. If i switch to "stop" i lose the 12v...strange right? Why would i see a constant 12v on the plug wire? i've never seen anything like it. I know there isnt really a way to check out the CDI box and i don't want to go out and buy one until im sure thats the problem. Also, I am having some troubles with the neutral switch. with the ignition on and the bike switched to run i have continuity from the actual neutral switch to the harness at the headlight and thats good, theres 12v there as well, but i cant get the light on the speedometer to light, all other lights work so far. It could be just the bulb but I'm not to sure, but then i started thinking maybe its related to the no spark. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks- Matt

Hey fellas, I'll start by saying I've had a lot of bikes of bikes over the years, mostly all off road bikes. Some of those include 98 Honda Cr125, 93 Yamaha YZ125, 81 Honda ATC70, 85 Honda ATC185s, 85 Honda 250 big red, 85 Kawasaki KXT250 Tecate, 69 Norton Commando 750, and my newest 80 Yamaha sr250. As you can see I have a thing for trikes, never got my hands on a tri-z though...I currently only have the Tecate(my baby) and the sr250. Growing up on Long Island I spent a lot of time riding off road, I have pretty strong mechanical skills and I consider myself to be really good with electrical work, so I hope I can be helpful to the forum. Anyway, I just picked up this sr250 a couple months back and started a tracker project...I'll get more into that in a new thread because as you can imagine I'm running into some issues and could use some help! Looking forward to chatting with you all. -Mat