andrewed1

A small flat screwdriver works well Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lately i have been experiencing login issues via Tapatalk.. saying network issues.. while tring to login.

Agree.. replace the switch.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Found them....[emoji35][emoji35] What was yamaha thinking ???? The whole topend had to be removed... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Help needed...! When splitting the cases to fix a slipping starter clutch.. where are the bolts #s 21, 22, 23 hide.. I hoping not under the head!! If so any quick way to compete as i do not want to dissasemble the cams/valves.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Why did you wire to the "red light".? These bikes have a ignition connector, mines only a 2 wire connector some are 3 or 4.. the ignition switch should be wire to the corresponding connector in the harness Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ebays got some.... all read this... http://yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php?/topic/31917-Do-not-post-links-to-service-manuals-or-other-copyrighted-material Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

2 post in one 27/3/2017 Hi All, I have just been given a bike and its an FZ750 i am planning on trying to get it running as it has sat in a shed for 17 years,, i do like a challenge, though i will need help. The good -- Has compression and all parts attached it a complete bike The bad -- has not run for 17 years & radiator core is broken This weekend i pulled the tank and splashed some fuel down the carbs, hooked up the car battery (not running) and hit the starter. engine turning over but not cranking. it sounded like the starter was spinning so pulled the alternator and then the starter and check the starter gears teeth, All good all there (relief :)). I then splashed some more and just let it turn over for a while soon enough it start ti=o turn and in fact did kick a little (big smile). at that moment i connected an ancillary tank (plastic bottle of fuel) connected it to the carbs and hit the starter. At this point the carbs spat the fuel back at me fro the 1st air vent tube from the left side. NO matter what i did the carbs squirted out the air vent tube... so now with a flat car battery and a sad face i called it a day and looked on line for some answers. So with some research and found that this happens with old carbs as all the internals stick and the carbs flood very easily. The next morning stripped the carbs of the bike cleaned with some degreaser, and removed the float bowls expecting to see sticking floats and grime. really it was pretty clean (possible to all the fuel that has recently went through it.. I then continued with stripping the carbs floats and diaphragm's and the other internals, Needle and seat etc, and let them soak in kerosene to remove all grime (i chose kerosene as it is safe on the o-rings), and the body went in the tub of degreaser for a longer bath. This is where i am currently at... 1. Drained oil heavy smell of gas, and refilled with new oil 2. Removed Radiator as to get to the Sparks plugs (there must be an easier way) 3. Unfortunately all 4 Diaphragms had small holes so got some Gasket sealant Oil and Gas resistant flexible stuff, and used a paint brush to applied it on both sides (youtube). now carbs work perfectly,,, 4. Still spins and cranks/sometimes but more spinning than cranking need to sort this out.. xxxxxXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX 21/05/2017 Well, have had some free time of late and have been able to play with this project bike a little more. I been trying to free up the starter clutch as I have read and been told that some time theses can stick, and slip causing what I have been experiencing when starting. So today I drained the oil and forced pumped in the oil via the starter motor hole and then tried to start it again unfortunately without and real success. Told my self that the only way is now to pull it have have a look. so today I set out to remove the engine. I have been told this was possible with one person and completed by myself quite easy with my trolley, Car stand and Jack and a little time to check things... Preparing the bike - Removing the bits and pieces and then the Engine..... Now,, The fun will begin, time to open it up........

Yes take it off and with it in your hand, connect the wires to it and test it. Once confirmed re-fit it carefully Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Very nice bike... things like "points" can be changed and adjustment gets easier the more you do it. Have fun with it.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You will have to check the contacts inside the switch.. sounld like its not connecting correctly or the bulbs need changing Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Still.. the stator does not produce the spark. Yes creates cunnert to provode the spark but does not create it.. The OP should check their coils, cdi or ignitor, it is possible they could have failed..and this could be the reason of no spark. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

You do know that a "stator" does not produce a spark!.. That is a job for the coil and spark plug... A stator produces current which runs into the R/R which is converted to volts and is used to charge the battery... Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Happy to hear you got it working.. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

It does not matter. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Fuses?? Is battery still ok?? Is the bike running? Get you multimeter and connect to battery what are the Dc volt readings 1. No power just sitting 2. With ignition power 3. Running at idle 4. Running at 4000rpm? We need to 1st find if the new stator and R/R are working correctly Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Whats the process to the oiling the shit out of it?? Would i use a pump through the starter motor mounting hole??? I try anything too free it rather the splitting the cases [emoji4] Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Ok.. that would indicate (atleast too me) that the stator needs to be replaced...1 thing to be aware of is that sometimes a failed stator can also take out the R/R aswell.. Are you able to remove the stator cover and inspect it?? If so your looking for a burnt side. It will be clearly visible.. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

From looking at the service manual if i remove the clutch i would still not be able to see the starter clutch as it appears to be sectioned off. Once removed what would i be looking for. Also: I do not think this is an issue as i have been able to get the engine to start just took a long long time, as cranking was very intermittent Thanks i appreciate your time and help.

Ok it think yours is a 2 phase system. So which colur wires gave you the eeadon of 0.7ohms? Please test the YR wire (yellow red) & W (white) wire as these are the output going to the R/R 1 = Stator 2 = rectifier regulator 4 = fuse 21 = Battery Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Sounds like your stator and or RR has fried. Are you able to access the stator connection plug if so a quick test is to use a multimeter "Resistance setting" and then any pin from plug to ground. This should not read ANYTHING if it does give you a output reading your stator is fried.. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Thanks Slice.. Well i removed the starter motor to check the idler gear teeth and no teeth are missing. The starter motor teeth look ok to me and works. The idler gear spins freely 1 way but the otherway feels like it catches the starter gear, is this correct? So is the next step to try and inspect the starter clutch gear teeth? Using your mirror method as i will need to purchase a inpection mirror.. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Excellent. .. thanks. I will need to do that.. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Sorry were would i find this? What cover do i need to remove. Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk

Yes already did this and could not see any missing.. might have to do it again.. Where would you place the mirror and torch for this inspection? Sent from my SM-N910G using Tapatalk