Mallet

ok, got hold of a manual. I've actual got six plates which lines up with manual which says to space them 60 deg. So the basket has been filed down, plates cleaned, clutch reassembled and clutch adjusted to lineup with the alignment pip. Took it for a test ride, has fixed the vibration that was there before and can stop without stalling. But the bike still pulls slightly with clutch lever pulled in with 1st gear. What could still be causing this, plates worn too much, springs too short? I checked the end of the push rod and it looked ok not mushroomed.

120 degrees? i got 5 steel plates, should'nt that be 72 degrees apart as airhead said ?

I took some photos of the steel plates during disassembly, if i understand what your saying then these plates are not positioned correctly. The pips are the single bump on each plate? In the 1st pic the pip is around 1 o'clock, yes?

Ok it's apart, plates separated very easily but the clutch basket looks fairly grooved. Is it ok to file them down, what are the drawbacks with doing this. A new basket cost $350 aud.

Once that plates are separated would you suggest any sort of cleaning/brushing of the fibre plates ?

Have done that, didn't work. Going to pull it apart like cynic suggested.

I'm working on a 1995 dt175 which has been sitting around for a few years without being started. When in gear the bike will not roll when the clutch lever is pulled in as the clutch plates are sticking. I've tried most suggestions to free it up (clutch cable adjustment, rocking it in gear, cable tied the clutch lever in overnight, rode it around dumping the clutch in and out at revs) but it basically the hasn't changed. So I'm guessing the clutch fibre plates have had it. So i'm looking at replacing/rebuilding the clutch. I want to do it properly once. So is it good enough to just replace the fibre plates or should I be looking at other parts while the clutch is disassembled? Is there a link somewhere showing the procedure for clutch rebuild/installation? Cheers, Mallet

Thanks Airhead for the photos/diagrams of the choke circuit. Your a legend.

Any special tools required for that job and can that be done with box/motor still in the bike? I have a repair manual for the 74-76 DT175, would the procedure be the same for my 96 model?

Dip stick level is dropping. I set the oil level with the stick sitting in the hole but not screwed in, is that correct or should it be screwed in? I'm just wondering if the smoke could be from overfilling? Will check out the gearbox and smoke smells in the next day or two.

Ok, on to next problem. Bike is still burn transmission oil. Is there any test or visual checks to see where the problem is. Could be crank seal, is there way to check that?

That makes sense, when i got the bike it was premixed. Guess the oil feed was broke.

Here's a photo; thanks

How do i add a photo to the reply?

Got the clutch plates freed up. Thanks for the help. One thing that helped was cable tied the clutch lever in overnight. Road around on the blke for a while and that cleared the exhaust smoke. Got an exhaust manifold leak. Where can i get a gasket for the exhaust manifold?

Anybody know what the port below the choke is ? It's presently plugged..

And the blue white smokey exhaust? I pulled the carb apart, cleaned and adjusted the float level (21mm). Could the smoke be cause by the carb, either something i've stuffed up during clean/adjust or could there be a mixture adjustment needed? Or maybe something totally unrelated to carb? Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks.

Hi Blackhat, yes, the zed was heavy, it tried to kill me with a tank slapper when i first got it. Put a steering damper on it and everything was sweet. DT progress: going to drain oil from transmission and fill with recommended oil. Then try and get the clutch to release as suggested in garage forum, if that doesn't work will pull it apart. Are you familiar with pulling these clutches apart? Cheers.

ok, thanks for moving the thread to the right area. So, if the autolube oil pump is not used and oil is premix with the fuel would this explain the reason for oil pressure light remain on? Also, the transmission oil was recently changed but i think they used 15w-40 car oil. Can this cause a problem should i can it to a two stroke oil? Cheers

Hi, my name is Andrew and I live in NSW Aystralia. Bikes I've owned were, 76 kawasaki Z900 and honda xl250. Presently trying to get a yamaha dt175 running. Cheers

Hi, was wondering if i got get some advice on a 1996 DT175 that i'm trying to get running. The bike has been sitting around unused for a couple of years. Without the motor running, if i put the bike into first gear and pulled the clutch lever in but cannot push the bike, it's like the clutch has not disengaged. I started the bike in neutral and the exhaust was quite smokey. I held the clutch in and put it into first and the motor stall (with clutch lever pulled in). Tried again with a few more revs at idle and was able take off in first but noticed the oil light remained on so shut the bike down. The oil bottle/pump has not been used by the previous owner, they just mixed the oil into the petrol. Any ideas on whats happening or how check/fix it, appreciated. Cheers, Mallet