ETR174

Ok, could that stop from it starting?

Ughhh I think its a full motor rebuild time. Gas was leaking out the flywheel cover. I removed the flywheel and stator and there is a little gas left but it was pouring it out bad.

I got it, it was just a little chunk of solder. I stuck a pick down the tube and its cleared out now. I reset the floats and no gas out anywhere. I will start her in a minute.

No overflow, just gas out the side vent tube.

Yeah there was a leak at the base and I filled it. I think it may have gotten clogged from the solder and the floats aren't set correctly so I will check.

Yes it requires some tools and the rebuild kit or you can drop one off to a motorcycle shop that can rebuild them. They can cost a pretty penny to be rebuilt ($200-400) with the labor and rebuild kit. You're better off finding one in decent shape on eBay or getting an upgrade.

Tusk Super White bulbs are da bomb! Like said earlier you will have to be careful but these lights are extremely bright and have a white tint. I have the H6M Tusks on my Banshee, same watt rating as stock, and they improved my night time vision dramatically.

Ok so I got it running for about 30 seconds and then it shut off. I noticed that the carb was leaking fuel out the overflow. I adjusted the float and now it wont start and its not leaking gas out the overflow but instead the vent on the side.

Aight, thanks man!

Sorry for the long waited response but it turns out that the brass tube for the overflow was split by the base. I took a solder gun and filled it with solder. I have everything set up and no leaks. Haven't started it yet, I'm eating dinner real quick.

Ok I bent it back and its still leaking. Ok the needle looks like it was filed on the side, I have another mikuni needle but it is a rubber tip, will that work?

Ok one minute I will take it back off and look

Ok I will try, the floats are facing the right way. I set the float at 21mm and they are still leaking since the last report.

Ok so I found out that the needle was getting stuck so that fitting the needle sits snug on had to be cleaned. I verified that the needle dropped and I put it back in the bike. Turned the gas on and gas is pooring out the overflow tube. I am assuming that the floats aren't adjusted correctly. I know how to set them just need to know the gap size.

Ok thanks! I am on my way home so I will check that. Thank you so much!

Yeah that plug at the bottom in the photo. Damnit just dont want to spill gas infront of my garage.

You can clear it out by starting it WOT

Its dead center at the bottom of the bowl

I'd say maybe 14mm

I forgot all about that little jet at the bottom for the choke! Everything else in the carb for this poor bike was blocked. Ok when I get home I will look. Just one last question, I noticed there is a small nut at the bottom of the bowl, do you just crack it loose for the gas to go out the hose on the bowl?

Yeah. I probably kicked it over 100 times. Also since the carb was off so was the tube for the autolube going to the carb throat. The old tubes were junk on the carb so I replaced them and I needed to bleed the line for the oil injection going to the carb. I took the cap for Yamalube and drilled two holes. I fit the line in and got most of the line filled with oil and fit it on. There is a small 1 cm gap of air collected at the top of the line. Should I pour a little Yamalube down the spark plug hole so it is easier on the piston when I kick it over? I have a Banshee so Im used to kicking very hard lol

No and I forgot to mention it had a spark plug (cant remember the brand) stamped with ND. The model was W23ES-U and I followed a conversion chart to a NGK B8ES which I had lying around because my Banshee uses them too. I replaced it and unscrewed the top so the the boot would connect to it. I took the plug out and had it touch the heat sink fin on the head and it sparked a nice blue color. I am starting to think carb because the needle didnt exactly drop down the smoothest so maybe it is stuck shut? Also is 115psi of compression still good?

Turn the petcock off when not using it for more than about 30 minutes. When you get back turn the choke on, give it a couple of slow priming kicks and give it a nice strong kick. Good thing Yamaha knows how to gear their kick starts. My Banshee starts with one kick every time while my friend with a LT250R takes a good 20 kicks to start.

Hello, I got a DT125E 2 weeks ago I am trying to fix up to screw around with up north. I have put the carb back together with a 150 main and stock pilot and I am running a 4" pod filter. The bike does have spark with a replacement NGK B8ES and I compression tested it at 115psi (need verification on good or bad) and it will not start. Any suggestions? Choke was pulled and I have the air screw 1.5 turns out. Sorry I accedentially typed 1987 when it is a 1978.

Yes I saw it is stamped with 2A7. My Banshee for instance is labeled 3GG which means its a Banshee from the model year 1987 to I believe 1997