jeffhj8

This could work, the only problem that could come with this is that it is and from aluminum even though its softer and easier to mold, it could crack and break. but that could be the only thing i can do. here is a picture of what i the damage looks like

Hello all, Well here is the story. I was riding my bike the other day, and my chain came off of the rear sproket but it continued to spin around the front sproket, it ended up doubling up on the front sproket at stalling the engine. when i tried to put the clutch in to get it out of first it was very stiff and it didnt want to spring back. Today while working on the bike i got the chain off of the front sproket and onto the rear. To do this i had to take the chain gaurd off which was connected to the stator cover and with that off i saw (its hard to explain) where the clutch cable went onto a shaft i assume and down into the gearbox to the clutch, this shaft was in a housing that was dented badly from the chain being wrapped up on the sproket, i believe this could be why the clutch leaver is very stiff. I am just wondering if there is any way i can fix this or if there if this isnt the reason its stiff does anyone have any any other ideas to why it is so stiff. if i can figure out how to work this website i will post a picture of what i mean by the damage. Anything helps, thank you all for reading this and if there is anything you need me to explain in greater detail please tell me.

wont be able to post the picture for a while, silencer broke off the bike and it is way to loud to ride where i live. once i get that fixed i be sure to do a plug chop.

Ill post a pic of the plug either tonight or tomorrow if i figure out how... i am kinda new to the whole plug chopping and it looks good to me, so ill let you guys be the judge.

Very true, by moving up one more notch it will be in the center so do you think that would be too lean, or it really depends on the bike and whats going on with it i guess.

Just an update. Was a pain to get the carb back on, but i got it on after a bit but the barrel in, with the newly adjusted needle. My dumb self put the barrel in backward and it started full throttle scared the crap out of me when it started, but i got it back in the right way. Took it out for a ride and it seems to have almost fixed the problem, still bogging but not as much so ill put the clip up one more notch and see if that fixes the problem. Just another question does anyone know where i can find plastics for my bike? can't seem to find them anywhere.

i hope so too... thank you everyone for the help i really appreciate it. Thanks again, Jeff

I not sure what happened to this thing but the clip on the needle was bent across 2 notches and the lowest part was sitting all the way down on the very bottom notch. and it put some pretty nasty markings and chips in the needle, so i fixed the clip and put it two up from the bottom, so hopefully thius will help.

ok that makes sence.. i will do that now.. thanks guys for all the help

Ok sounds good, what clip are you talking about?

If i do this will it change the idle because it is idling only enough to stay going

Just went outside and tried this, seems to make it worse/ make it bogg even longer, so too much gas then

sorry worded it wrong, but anyway i have fixed all of the throttle problems, it idles a bit low but its fine, the throttle doesnt stick anymore and i can turn left or right without anything happening to the throttle. I beleive all these problems are because the throttle cable was to short but i have it set up just right where it works fine. I do still have the problem with the bogging down every time i shift though and i did the plug chop and it looks fine to me and im not sure how to post a picture off my computer. Any ideas though on the bogging?

I did check it up right on its wheels... can't see any oil but i bought some today and i will put it in. Do you know how i can fix my splitter problem? Thanks

thanks for the help man, ill check the plug tomorrow

Im not talking about the two stroke oil its oil injected and it has plenty of oil left there, there is a sight glass by the gears I don't think you put 2 stroke oil in the gears. I have tomorrow off so I will do a plug chop to see, what should I be looking for, coffee brown? Thanks

I beleive i have found the problem. The throttle cable was not sitting right and it was pulling on the splitter which was pulling the carb cable, after some messing around with it i solved the idling problem !! But sadly if i turn left or right it pulls on the carb cable because there seems to be a break in the line right after the splitter, not exactly sure how i could solve this problem, let me know if anyone has any ideas. And does anyone know what kind of oil this bike take, i looked through the little glass hole and i didnt see any oil at all Lastly i just put a new exhuast on the bike because the other one got split right open after i hit a tree, but anyway the new exhaust is not the stock one so it seems to be more free flowing, but because of this when i shift it will bogg down for a second then work fine, seems to get worse the higher the gear, is it not getting enough gas, would putting a bigger main jet solve this problem, feel free to reply any ideas. thanks again, Jeff

That is very true i will check everything, dont want to be too quick to assume. A lot af work to do tonight will post results, thanks guys for the help.

That makes sence, so could i just get the cable from the splitter back or would i need the whole assembly to change it out?

I will try and work on the cable tonight too. Only problem is that this cable is a two peice so it seperates into two different cables, i dont really have any experience with these and i am not sure where the other cable is even going . I tried to buy a throttle cable and it only came in one of the peices so i didnt even bother. If you guys know what the other part is called please let me know. thanks

Thank you, definitely checking tonight. And i will post what happens

Thanks for the reply i will definitely check the cable tomorrow, but if it was a cranky seal what would i be looking for, and would i have to do an engine tear down?

Hello all, i am wondering if anyone could help me with my bike that isn't running right. It is a DT 125 LC i believe it is a 1984, i is the unrestricted 10v model. The problems are that when the bike warms up it idles too high, when i turn right it will rev up, and when i am riding it it will rev up and stay like that even if i let go of the throttle, i use the back brake to put it back down again and it seems to be fine after that. All of this seems to be pointing to a short or broken throttle cable but I'm not sure why it would stick high up in revs. If anyone knows or has an idea what this is please reply, and if you need more iinformation dont be afraid to ask. Thanks, Jeff

Hello everyone i am just wondering if anyone has any knowlage about my bike and could help me. I recently bought this bike for very cheap and I found out after a couple days of riding, that when I am riding my bike will rev up really high, even if i let go of the throttle it will stay like this, until i use the back brake to force it back down. I think it might have something to do with the trottle cable, maybe its not sitting back down after i let go of it. Does anyone have any ideas of what this could be and how i could fix it, ask me questions if you need more information. Thanks, Jeff