Scott8155

I'll have to get my hands on a meter. The display on the speedometer shows a full battery and after some button presses this goes down to half. Obviously a meter is more trustworthy like

It was my girlfriends Dad that came across the 2sparks then nothing. I checked it myself today and it's almost different every time I press the electric start. Sometimes it sparks once then not at all until I let go of the switch, at this point there is sometimes a series of small/weak sparks. The spark plug is on my to do list anyway, it might not need changing, but I have no idea how long the previous owner had it in. Whilst the button is pressed there's that repeating noise the bike makes when trying to start on the button, so I don't think it will be the solenoid. I'm wiring a new speedometer sometime in the next week or two so I will check the wiring to the starter motor then. My bike seems to be good at 1100-1200, any lower and the bike seems to struggle, when not warmed up that is.

I did answer the question dt502001, maybe I didn't do it clear enough for you. Yes, I do have family members who could help me with this, but I'd rather research it and go at it by myself.

You're right oobliksem, I've just checked. That seems really high but I suppose if it's in the manual then I should give that a go.

Jesus, is that for my model? That seems quite high. My bike only sparks twice off of the button so I hold it until either the bike has started or until the two sparks will have passed.

No the battery is almost full and was new two months ago. One thing I have noticed though, I'm not sure if the bike is supposed to be like this or has an electrical fault, but off the button the bike will only spark twice and then not again until I repress the button.

Just turned the idle up slightly like you said. The thing with the choke is, and I've heard this is the case with many bikes, is that there's a 'sweet spot'. Under that isn't enough and over that is too much. So sometimes if I don't go straight to the kick start after trying the button once or twice, to save battery, then the bike will start off of the button and won't cut out.

Ok I'll give that a go in the morning when I'll be riding it to work. Right now the bike idles at 1100 when warm so 1200 won't hurt to try. My carb doesn't have a thumb screw so it take a bit of messing to get to the screw, but it's easily done. I have checked around the carb for an air leak with wd40 and didn't find anything. Thanks for your time guys, it means a lot with me just starting out with my first bike. The bigger picture is to finish the years insurance on this bike, and in that time get to grips with the mechanical side of it, and then do my A2 test and get a 250.

Yeah the bike can be restarted straight away. That's the thing dt50, when the bike is cold started with or without choke it will idle quite low at around 900 rpm and then die after around 5 seconds. This will happen only when very cold for the first 3 or 4 times of starting the bike. Secodondly at this same point of cutting out, if I give the bike throttle it will die also. So should this just be a carb clean again? This is my first ever bike, I'm 19 and I've only just been able to afford one you see. Also just to add, the choke does work.

Hi blackhat, I'm not a mechanic nor am I great with the terminology aha. As far as I'm aware he removed and cleaned everything on the carb, including the jets, and then rebuilt it. So he kept the original jets. Now it's been a few weeks the bike only cuts out when started some of the time, and other times runs well. Maybe it's just this cold weather?

Sorry for the misunderstanding Preload. My girlfriends Dad did it, he's great with bikes, so he jetted the bike in whichever way so it ran well, which it did, for a while. The choke starts the bike well at 1/4 in and then it goes straight off as I've heard that's what's best. I'll check the air screw and tickover. Thanks

For anyone that reads this I got the carb rejetted and the bike runs find, but still needs tweaking. I found a Speedo but it got lost in the post!

The tank is a hard plastic so if there is crap in there it'll be from the cap, so maybe this isn't the problem

Thanks dt50, the carb was spotless but I'll do it again. Fuel filter a cheap job?

Hey guys, so I've just had my 2010 yamaha xt 125 rejetted so that it would idle without cutting out. It worked perfect for a couple of days, starting off of the button first time. Now it's been almost a week and the bike is dying again whilst idling, with any amount of choke. So is this thr carb yet again? Thanks in advance

Well I'll get my hands on one then and we'll soon see!

Thanks kev. Yeah the wires should still be the same, SHOULD! The speedo restarts when I'm out riding every couple of minutes and doesn't read speed anymore. I'll see if I can pick up a cheap manual somewhere.

Thanks for your answers guys. I've looked for the Haynes manual and I did find one, however they only do the year previous model of my bike, will this make a huge difference? My gfs dad has some time off of work in 2/3 weeks and has agreed to take a look at my carb! Good news there. The two adjustable screws on my carb are knackered and can't be adjusted, so he has some for me if they do need tuning. Now for those of you that know about wiring, my speedo has stopped displaying speed, so I changed the speed sensor wire, but this didn't work. The wire did have a wire that was cut though, so it did need to be changed. Any ideas? Secondly; if I was to change the speedo how would I go about finding out what each wire does?(I have my dad to help with electrics, but I've agreed only to ask him when I really need to) the speedo has 14 wires coming from the back. So far I know what 11 may do, but don't know the colours. These are: neutral, high beam, dip beam, indicators, low fuel warning, speed sensor, odometer, power +, power -, earth, oil warning. So there's potentially 3 wires that I don't know the purpose of. The previous functions are what my speedo shows, so I guessed each wire must belong to each one? Thanks for you time guys, I'm greatful for your help:)

Sorry for the late reply! Thought I would be emailed when I got a response and forget about my post! Just had to google Squires aha, seems like a nice place for anyone on 2 wheels. Thanks for your time guys

Hey guys, sorry about the late response, I assumed the site would email me! My mistake. So I changed the battery, the old one was pretty much dead. I've gained some knowledge from reading and my girlfriends dad is good with bikes, just a very busy man. My thoughts are if the bike won't idle then this could mean the carb needs sorting? For now I have had to adjust the throttle cable in order to up the revs a little to keep the bike running till it's warm. Am I right in thinking the pilot air screw sorts the bike when at closed throttle/idling? However my adjustable screws on the carb are knackered, clearly been tinkered with before. The choke makes no difference. How would I go about checking the valves? Thanks for your time

Hi guys. I'm new to bikes and I've just bought my own 2010 model with 23000 miles on it. My dad is good with mechanics as he restores classic cars so he can help, however I wouldn't mind trying by myself first. So my problem: the bike starts after 3 kicks or so, and off the button when warm, however the battery sometimes makes a buzzing noise (needs replacing?). The bike needs some throttle to keep running and takes around 5 minutes of this to run alone. So my question is what can I do or check to improve this? So the bike will run better. Thanks in advance

Hi, I'm Scott from Hull. Just bought my first bike which is a yamaha xt 125 x 2010 model. Not the best of bikes but I got it for a good price. I have little experience with bikes but I look to get quite into riding now I've got a bike. Hopefully I can learn something here and meet some nice people. Thanks for reading