s900t8v

So the parts manual lists 336-634-00-00 as the plates for yamaha cy2/3 and dt 175 from 74-75 which my bike fits in. This is what I find. http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=331315117183 These plates don't have the cutout. Whereas mine do. My understanding is that these are the earlier style plates. Am I right in understanding the cutouts help stop the plates from burning up? Will using the old style plates cook the friction plates. I don't want to buy 70 buck ebc frictions and have them fail!

Well I can't even find anyone other than dc plastics who sell yamaha steel plates. They used the same plates through a lot of other bikes from same era. Rd etc. but no one seems to sell. Maybe I ought to buy oem steel and ebc friction. I certainly don't want to pay this money and have the clutch fail again. I have brand new ebc springs that are 15% stiffer. I will go back through all my steel plates and see if I have anything decent.

As above? Any good sources ? I will buy ebc friction discs. Thanks

haha its still a fun project, the wallet is just getting a bit too light on this one project for my liking!

guy who I bought these off was a crook thats for sure, pulled down the running motor and its got a bent f*****ng mainshaft as well... not bent splines, an actual bent mainshaft. god knows how that happens - seized chain again probably. this guy was a downright tool. cant catch a break with this engine stuff... really pissed off about this... paid too much for 2 wrecked bottom ends although I do have 3 good cylinders/piston combos I might be able to make a bit of cash off.. I have enough parts I can probably sell on ebay to make some cash - theres another bike close to home i'll pickup hopefully with a decent engine. .

went and ordered all new engine bearings and seals, plus a few other seals all up about $115 just had to get the countershaft support bearing from ebay israel lol as its a yamaha only part ($30) so its not too bad in terms of costs. at least after that the thing will be done and wont have to worry about anything except the top end seizing/failing. bought all new allen case and side cover bolts for the rebuild so the motor should end up looking pretty good

think I'm going to buy another parts bike, a ct1

ah well hold the phone the parts catalogue does not list a center gasket for the yamaha CT series... I just went through the manual and the crankcase halves are bonded with yamabond whereas the crankcase cover (or clutch cover) requires a paper gasket + yamabond on both surfaces to seal. thats awesome, I'll just make a crankcase cover gasket myself I think or re use the one I have. saves me $60 for a gasket kit I wont even need. problem solved!

Yeah that's a good point. I'd have to re shim the crank. Not a huge deal but some what adding time. Ill do it the right way and buy the gaskets and use yamabond on both sides of the gasket Etc Thanks I did sort of think it wouldn't be ideal to cut corners on the gasket.

clutch is still slipping an ive resanded the plates and checked everything, made sure the spacing was correct, have the uprated springs etc.... I think the issue may be the basket it seems to be warped. the spare one I have I think may be for a dt 175 which needs 6 plates? confused by it all thats for sure! gearbox bearings are shot so will have to strip this motor down - was going to rebuild my spare but it was put aside when I found the bent mainshaft.. I haven't been able to find one cheaply enough here

I've rebuilt motorcycle engines in the past and always used gaskets with flange sealant on both sides for the crankcase. can I assemble the crankcase halves without gaskets and just use threebond 1104/yamabond? the gasket kits are expensive to buy in aus. I could cut my own gasket if required as I have plenty of gasket paper. cheers

Hahaha it's certainly not quiet. Ill take a video. Maybe ill just rbuld the lot. Gearbox bearings are shot so ill have to strip it down and rebuild the whole thing. Will try to avoid rebuilding the crank although crank kits are only another 100. Maybe I should just suck it up and do the lot. I do like the bike so far. But clutch is still slipping despite sanding the plates but its still fun! I think with a chamber and bigger reed intake it will rip

Ill post a video.

Doesn't sound totally like slap to me. Could be rod knock then.

hey all from others experience is it the yamalube oil pumps that tick loudly at idle. it almost sounds like a cracked hydraulic lifter in a car? or is that bad rod bearings? I can post a video, but if others find the oil pumps noisy then I wont worry

Cut and buffed the tank with meguiars 105 and 205 first with a wool pad then a fine foam pad on the drill applied the vinyls. not bad for a first time on the vinyls, theres a little defect on one of the letters on each side. I a glad I am not clearing , the vinyls were 5 bucks and I can just remove them with a gentle peel and alcohol at any time. pretty happy with how the paint looks considering it was a very quick and cheap job

Thanks. She's pretty rough and ready I mean all the black rim and frame paint is sprayed on with minimal prep and looks good from about 1m but not up close. The green paint I've done properly so it will look good but I figured if I like the bike ill powder coat all the frame stuff black and get new rims etc as the front one is actually fairly buckled lol. I'm happy cos i haven't emptied my pocket into something I won't get back. It's a blast even with a slipping clutch. I think it'll be great. The brakes are surprisingly good.

few crappy iphone pics picking up the new seat from the post office tomorrow.. .really have to get around to painting the cylinder/head.

I didn't do that. Thanks for the information!

6 is the rubber cushion ring there are 5, evenly spaced. the bearing is in there (this would produce the inability to declutch if it was missing) heres the picture that shows the cutouts I did this wrong... I was just offsetting the small bump in the plates, I didn't actually take note of the entire cutout which extends like you said almost 100 degrees in diameter of the plate... I will offset them properly and do all the above and hopefully this fixes..

as per this goes - clutch drum > steel > rubber > friction (repaat x5) > clutch face plate OK two things that may also be wrong - I think perhaps the pushrod is bent, I noticed when i pulled the clutch in that the plate did not lift evenly, it was a bit crooked, BUT stil this should not affect the clutch operation when the clutch is not engaged? - I just put the steel discs one slot apart on the drum, I was going on the pointy bit, but not the cutaway area, so in saying that my steel plates are not 120 deg apart. I will have to fix that.

whats with the fact the mating surface where the clutch face plate (that the springs compress onto the plates) mates with the friction plate is only like half the thickness of the friction plate,, that just seems like wasted grip....

I've never put car engine oil in there but I suppose its possible from silly people before me lol will it permanently contaminate the friction material?

GHETTTTOOOOOOOOO black n chrome hahah a great way to cover up rusty spokes the cheap way... will polish up the hubs with the drill buff when i get a chance... I rode the bike a bit more, clutch still slipping so I am gonna strip down and check the steel plates for flatness on a sheet of glass, I will also do a quick cross sand with 400 on the friction plates to see if I can rough them up so they grip... I dont get it, the material thickness is correct, the clutch is adjusted properly, the springs are 15% stiffer than stock, I have 5 plates, 5 friction discs, and the thing still slips with high performance castrol wet clutch stuff... THE plates MUST be warped, or friction discs glazed I cant think of anything else grumble grrr...

Yeah it is. Front brake requirement from July 86. My bike is October lol. Victorian roadworthy is bullshit right. The current front brake switch works but is worn so you have to pull the front brake to lock for the light to come on. It might get through. It's silly that the switch isn't adjustable like the rear.