hadley8899

I had heard they use the same motors, Id also heard a rumor about changing the WR's cam timing 1 tooth to give it more power? Could just be a crazy rumour ? To be honest i cant really find many for sale (WR wise) But i seem to come across alot of DRz400's So i may be heading away from yamaha on this one. I wont be buying one till around march next year so ive got plenty of hunting around to do in the mean time. I do really like the WR's. and having rode a yz250f im guessing the WR400 would be very similar just more power and abit more weight. Ive just had a seach for a TT600re and i couldnt even find one lol,

Wow i really like the MATT effect that bike has it goes really well, Nice work mate keep it up

In all honesty i didn't really realize they were that high maintenance, To be honest i only ever ride once in a while maybe once or twice a week. So i suppose it wouldn't be to bad for me. To be honest i wanted to go over to a big single four stroke for the low end torque and reliability but it seems as if thats not what ill get. I would love a 250 2 stroke on the road just for that pure thrill of the powerband. Coming into corners knocking it down 3 gears then powerbanding out with the revs through the roof with the lovely smell following you around. I havent really looked at whats on the market 2 stroke wise for the road over 125. Ive only really looked at the Suzuki DRz400sm, Yamaha WR, The CCM supermoto(cant remember the name) and the big KTM690 Supermoto Any other suggestions would be well looked at Ive only ever rid 4 strokes (Above 125) on the track and its only ever been an RM250f and a KTM450 2012 and i must admit i did like the idea of having alot of power even when your not in the right gear. But i must admit the sound and the feel of the weight didnt do much to my liking Am i right in thinking the WR shares the same engine as the YZ ?

Well in fairness after the rebuild (rebore,piston, bearings and seals) the bike ran exactly the same . Turns out after all of the things i had done to the bike the air box snorkel had been removed (I didn't even know there was meant to be one there) I put that on and it was a totally different bike. Well i had a spluttering issue straight after i put it on (and made a post) but again it was my fault, Id kinked the snorkal as id put it on. The spark plug is alot browner now and the throttle response is alot better no bwaaaaaa arp Who would of thought that little bit of rubber would cause all of these issues. Mind you the worn top end probably didn't help it either

Thankyou All working well now, Just the weather being the let down Looking forward to next year when i do my test and get me a WR400

No to be honest it didnt look as if it would of taken much to break it. It only goes into the alloy cast on the yoke. Yeah ive had many of bikes stolen from me in the past In one night the took my old 1999 dtr125, My 2003 yz125, my dads XT350 and a downhill bicycle. This was years ago mind but within the last month ive had my motorcycle trailer stolen which is very very annoying as they did such a clean job on the break in on the garage, Even closed the door after them All the best

Yeah it should be here tomorrow, So ill wack it on and go for a blast And thank god for that i thought my thermostat was knackered lol I prefer the old style clocks, The new ones dont come with a temp gauge or rev counter. So i used the old yokes and old style clocks. The sh*t thing is though i dont have a steering lock now

oh and also my temp gauge never goes above this while riding It will go up more when idling or in traffic but will always return to there, It that a normal temp ? All the best

Ok so ive gone through alot of hell getting this to run right First of all it died on me while i was out and about, As soon as i got to the high rpm it just spluttered and popped to a stop. It turns out it was running lean ? Hadnt caused any engine damage but I did a full rebuild on the motor (Had 19000 miles on clock). I had the barrel over sized and new piston, 2 new main bearings 2 seals. The reason i did this because i suspected the crank seal was gone so i just went all out and did the lot. The left hand crank seal was showing no signs of a exterior leak but it was badly perished wohoo the bike ran again but it wouldnt idle unless the idle screw was fully in ? but either way it ran fine riding along But it started to die at lights unless you gently revved it, It was always the same when you blipped the throttle to hard it would bwaaaaaarpppp and die or if you were lucky rev up Right so its still lean. Bear in mind i have checked all of the inlet hoses Main jet is a 240 I cant remember what the idle jet is but i was standard Right so i found out that the air snorkel at the top of the airbox had been taken off. So i got one and put it on and it was amazing how much different it made it. I could grab the throttle from idle to 100% throttle and it would rev So i took it for a test ride and it rode very nice up until i got to about 8000rpm and it felt and sounded like i hit a limiter So now its too rich ?? What i wanted to ask was my exhaust gasket (on order) is leaking very badly would this cause a rich condition ? Ive ordered a brand new air filter although ive have cleaned it i just wanted to eliminate that But does anyone else have any suggestions ? All the best

Just out of interest cynic what did they actually change from the old engines to new engines ? Bore X Stroke is the same isnt it ? All the best

If your still having the problem i have a wiring loom unbroken for sale on ebay at the moment But to be honest that shouldn't be to hard to sort out I have a haynes manual if you would like a wiring diagram i could scan it All the best

Just for reference i have a wiring loom and CDI on ebay which would fit your bike All the best

If you are still interested im pretty sure youve got the standard expansion chamber as i dont think the big one or dep pipe come with a heat shield To restricted it im pretty sure you have to cut the pipe further down im not sure where as ive never done it or itll be by the manifold(a big washer) As for other restrictions you can pin the power valve open if havent got the server and cables (Problem is you lose alot of bottom end power) Hmmm i have read about earthing a wire behind the clocks but ive never done that either All the best

Just for reference, I used DTR fork stanchions in my DTX forks. They are exactly the same (The DTX fork stanchions were very poorly chromed and had rusted) There are a few changes inside the fork however Have a look at my build project if you are interested in seeing them in pieces Its in the projects section (DTR,DTRE,DTX merge) All the best

Got alot of work in front of you Just so you know i have a fair few DT parts which i accumulated doing my dt project so if you need anything give me a quick shout All the best