martin young

knocking? from where on the engine? camchain is normally a rattle in the top end. a knock is usually big ends. a rumble, often felt through the footrests, would normally indicate main bearings.

Sounds like your regulator/rectifier is dead which is why your battery won't charge. Could just be bad connections in the plug or a corroded and broken wire but more likely it needs replacing. Could also be your alternator but reg/rec is easier and cheaper to check/replace to start with. Are you using the choke to start the bike?

Sounds like it then

you open the throttle and the revs rise? but no forward motion? sounds like the throttle is working fine if it's a twist and go then it could be belt slip on the transmission - worn pulleys?

Buy a bigger bike? In short, no.

There's a German TDR125 website that you can translate to English using Google Translate. www.tdr125.com this may be of interest: 24PS through remove the cone in the elbow union Attention by these changes expires the operating permit of the motorcycle and concomitantly the insurance protection. The cone sits in the beginning of the bent that can you not over see (clear narrowing), you must only the 3 small sweat näte away gotten (away chisels or with a Drehmel or so away fresen). Afterwards beautifully glat sharpen best also with one drehmel or a Schleifaufsatzt for the Bohrmaschiene, so that no more corners and edges are there and best still polish. finished So there's a restrictor cone probably in the header pipe. May be cheaper than a full pipe.

A fairing I think

Might do about that. Fiber reeds won't increase power, only improve throttle response. They also have a habit of breaking up and going through the engine! The pipe is your best bet, unfortunately it's also the most expensive. Don't overtighten the exhaust studs as they can easily be snapped off (from bitter experience many years ago!)

The only bit there that will "derestrict" your bike will be the exhaust. Then you may run the risk of holing the piston. How much extra performance are you expecting? TBH you're better off leaving it alone and keeping it mint so it's worth more against your next bike.

Normally a screw in type puller is used. I wouldn't want to use a legged puller on the rotor for fear of breaking it.

should be a warranty transfer slip in the handbook.

If it won't go into gear it could be broken clutch plates or basket, or even worn out shift drum or worn or broken shift forks. Clutch is fairly simple to check. Obviously without hearing it it's very difficult to suggest what it could be.

Ok...I thought there was a keylock that holds the seat on The fuses are located under the seat If you look on www.ronayers.com you will be able to look at online microfiches that show where these things are.

plug is "bad"? what colour is it? could also be worth cleaning your air filter.

What is the plug like when you remove it? Have you set the oil pump cable to the mark on the pulley?

Overheat - no. Soot up - yes. Look at the plug tip. You want a nice chocolate brown colour. Black = rich. White = lean. Wet and black could be too much 2 stroke oil being injected by the pump.

Isn't the seat held on with a lock? Is this an R6 or a Thundercat?

It's not the same as anything else. get a Hagon.

split carb diaphragm?

Could also be clutch switch

you've probably incorrectly refitted the throttle cable. the outer cable is likely stuck on the holder on the carb, instead of being in it. or the cable is wrongly fitted at the other end.

Check the oil pump setting. Check the float height. Clean the air filter. Make sure the full stroke for the throttle cable is set correctly. Oily/sooty is unusual. The plug should be chocolate brown. If it's black it's running rich or too much oil.

Sure it's pressure and not level?

Make sure the TDM has had regular oil changes. The 850 twin is a dry sump so checking the oil level isn't easy. It is easy to let the oil get too low which will wreck the crank.

596 would be FS1EDX. 3F6 would be FS1DX. 470 is FS1E.