KevtheRev

Ehh, you don't have to cut up plugs to do a plug chop . It just means examining the electrode ends to see if they are in the right temperature range . It's the only surefire way to tell if a two stroke bike is running properly .

Hi Jer , as long as the swingarm pivot bolt ( the big one running through the frame ) isn't seized you shouldn't have too much trouble . Make sure the bike is properly supported , remove the rear wheel , remove the shock(s) , open the chain at the split link and move it out of your way . Undo the nut on the pivot bolt and tap the bolt out ( taking care not to damage the thread ) . As you lift the swingarm out take note of the position of any spacers or shims . Reassembly is the reverse and if you put some copper grease on the pivot bolt it will prevent it from seizing in future . Hope that helps .

I'm not sure whether the P.V. is cable operated on your bike but if it is , check the cables as they seize if not lubed .

It must've started for him , lol .

Hi there , your clutch is "dragging " . Either the cable is not properly adjusted or there may be another problem . Check the cable adjustment .

Hi there , if you are changing the steering head bearings I'd recommend tapered needle bearings , a bit more expensive , but harder wearing and much less fiddly to fit .

The symptoms you describe could also be caused by worn brushes in the starter . I doubt very much that it will be anything to do with the CDI .

Hi Chris , did you rejet the carb and do a plug chop ? Also , check for air leaks between airbox / carb / inlet stub and make sure the inlet stub is not perished or cracked . Best of luck .

Hi Nick , if you are going to strip the bike that far you should replace both seals , also check the main bearings . Might save you having to strip it again .

Nice one ! I'm told those ultrasonic cleaners are good for cleaning carbs ,

If the chain was run loose before it was adjusted it may have been rubbing against the stand (usually the mainstand , if you have one ) .

Your easiest option ( assuming the crankshaft and seals are ok ) is to rebore and fit a new piston and rings . My first bike was a '79 DT175MX . Great bike and pretty simple to fix , but you should get a workshop manual . They are available and are a great help . Best of luck .

Sound !

Get a bolt to fit and bring it with you for sizing .

Happens ,

If it's not the cable you'll have to remove the clutch cover and recheck the clutch centre bolt and the spring retaining bolts for tightness . P.s . It's usually just one ball that sits between the clutch pushrod and the lifter plate .

Cable is ok , cool . Just make sure it has some slack . If a ball bearing was missing the clutch would not disengage , rather than slipping as yours seems to be . You'll have to search for an exploded diagram online to find out if the bike has a clutch pushrod bearing . Some do , some don't .

Make sure your clutch cable is adjusted properly . You should have about 10mm or so travel at the end of the lever . It sounds as if your cable may be too tight .

You could also replace the exhaust sealing rings at the cylinder heads . If they weren't replaced when the exhaust was changed they could be leaking air and this also causes popping on the overrun . They only cost a quid or so .

Oh , well if it looked cool I suppose ... lol . It does sound like a broken wire or loose connection tho' .

Did you use the carb from the old engine or from the replacement ?

If you gear lever was bent after the crash , the gear selector shaft may be bent . They are inexpensive though and only don't take long to fit . Otherwise , as above , all good advice . Wear that rash with pride !! (it will fade )

It sounds like the fork bottom bush might have come off while removing the fork tube . If levering is your only option just try not to damage the seal seat . use something wide and blunt like a small tyre lever rather than a screwdriver . Should pop out ok . Dont forget to look for your bottom bush (if it still exists , or wasn't refitted sometime , you never know ) . I like the hot oil method , but me Ma'd batter me with her pan .

So when you switch your front light off , your back light goes off as well ? Sounds ok to me , unless you've left off the connection for the park/ride light .Was the original light working properly ? And if so , why ...... Ah , to be a teenager again , "tuning"/seizing DT's like they were going out of fashion .

If the front sprocket is hooked it may affect gear selection , otherwise as above , check the chain tension and clutch cable freeplay at the lever .