KevtheRev

Good photos , if she'll turn over by hand without binding you should be ok .

As Cynic said , switches . Does your bike have an ignition cutout switch on the sidestand , clutch lever or maybe both ? They are prone to wear and neglect .

Hi there , is that a new camchain ? I can't understand why it's not running straight for you . Is the camchain kinked ?

Ah , I thought maybe it wasn't advancing properly .

Check your chain tension Stu , a badly adjusted/lubed chain can affect the gearchange . Make sure your gearlever is not fouling on anything and that the splines on lever and shaft are ok . That's the stuff you can check without much hassle . Other than that if the bike has ever been dropped the gear selector shaft could be bent . Oh , and check the oil level . Best o' luck .

Always check for play in the swingarm when buying a bike , by the looks of that one it could've played for United !! Easiest way is to put the bike on it's sidestand , then lean it over onto the stand a little more to take the weight off the rear wheel , then rock it on the stand . ANY undamped movement in the suspension is play and means that something is not right .

Oh sweet Jesus !!

Does that model of bike have a mechanical or electronic advance/ retard mechanism ?

Check the valves by turning the head upside down and pouring a little petrol into it , if any fuel leaks through, the valves need attention .

Me too , 30yrs later , lol

Hi Tommo , just check that niether of the tyres is oversize as this can cause the same problem . Stands also tend to wear quite a bit but can be brought back by welding a couple of bits of plate onto the worn "feet" to make up the difference . This might save you scourcing a new shock . Best o' luck .

If you ever do strip the thread on the sump , a cork from a sherry bottle or similar can keep you rolling until you can fix it properly .

Hi there , the easiest way to test the CDI is to switch it with one that works (on a bike already ) . I've changed DT's from points to CDI (and back ) and never changed the coils and had no problems . Hope that helps .

I googled a diag for that bike and it has a two part pushrod with a ball bearing in the middle ( according to google ) , So remove both , and don't lose the ball bearing . The idea is to disengage the end of the pushrod from the lifter , which should allow you to remove the lifter . Those dents have tightened the clearance . Have you tried gently rotating the lifter back and forth to see if you can free it up a bit ? If you're careful you should be able to lock a vise-grips onto the lifter to give you a little leverage . Other than that I'm stumped . Best of luck man .

I think you may have to remove the clutch pushrod from the other side of your engine (it runs through the centre of the shaft that the clutch basket sits on). This should allow you to remove the clutch lifter ( the part you are trying to remove ). Because of the dents you may have to gently lever it up , don't force it .

Try coating the outside with silicone sealant for a temporary fix until you track one down .

As above , push the wheel in before adjusting .

Check the throttle valve where it engages with the adjuster screw . If it is pitted or worn it will be difficult to fine tune the tickover and should be replaced . Always lift the valve (via the twistgrip ) before adjusting the idle adjuster screw in order to prevent this type of damage occuring .

Can't beat the smell of hot brakes and two stroke , better than heroin !

Always oil new cables before fitting them , a drop of engine oil is best . And yes , a badly routed or ill fitting cable can severely affect your clutch or throttle to the point of being dangerous . Some small bikes have a cable for retracting the sidestand attached to the clutch cable , not sure about the mighty RXS but check it out . A manual is best .

Make sure the inlet stub rubber and all carb/airbox gaskets are good or you'll be wasting your time trying to get it right .

A full carb overhaul , back to standard everything and you'll be at the right starting place to work from . Full carb refurbishment are avatlable . You'll get new jets , needle , float valve needle etc . Best way to go .

Be careful when removing the top bolt !! The spring exerts quite a bit of force and the bolt/cap will spring up as it comes free . Try holding a rag over the top to catch the cap as you loosen the final thread .

Sometimes you can get lucky with an impact driver and they'll loosen off , not always though .

I always used (new) car engine oil in my scottoiler , much cheaper than scottoil .