KevtheRev

Up to you buddy , harder ones will bite better but will wear the discs more quickly though .

Get one of those little bottles of touch up paint for cars that looks like a bottle of nail varnish , they have a little brush on the cap , from a motor factors . Quickes and easiest and will stop future rust .

The noise from the gearbox could be due to a worn bearing getting ready to bail out , which could lock up the engine . Or you could have worn or chipped teeth on the 3rd gear pinion (cog) , which could also fail and lock the engine and/or break the crankcase . I hate to be the bearer of bad news but safety is paramount . You wouldn't have to be in 3rd gear for either of these scenarios . To fix the gearbox is a full stripdown unless the crankcase splits horizontally , in which case you may be able to turn the engine upside down and get at it that way .( I'm not familiar with the TDM 850 ) . The quickest and cheapest is to replace the whole engine with a good second hand one if you can find one . Maybe a rough one with a decent engine which you could try before handing over any cash . Best of luck man !

Avon Gripsters were a great road tyre for on/off road bikes . If they still make 'em .

Top feckin' job me oul' flower !!

It sounds to me from your description that the bike may have a flatspot in the fuelling caused by the replacement air filters . If there is a shop near you which can do a dynojet test for reasonable money I'd get them to check it for you .

Check your fuel cap vent isn't blocked which can cause similar problems , it'll be one off the checklist anyway .

The bike is not run in fully yet , get some mileage on it and see how the gears feel . A chain that is too loose/ tight will affect shifting and can be dangerous .

Hi H , you may have to remove the clocks to get at the bulb . Check your clutch cable adjustment and also your chain adjustment , make sure it's lubed and properly tensioned . Both can affect your gearchange , and check your gear lever is not loose on the shaft .

Oh , careful , rule No.1 - Dont hurt yourself ! Well done , the wounds will heal .

Hey , well done man , fair play for not giving up . I blew up my first bike , also a DT, through fitting a K+N filter and pipe . I'd never heard of jets ! Ignorance isn't always bliss . Happy scrambling , she looks great with the mucky rear tyre .

I've been there a few times myself ,

Make sure you take note of which way up the old seals are fitted before you remove them .

Have you tried a new spark plug and cleaning the air filter ? Was the exhaust on the bike when your bro' had it ?

Just use the impact gun first and you may not need the hi-tech factory spec broomhandle .

Lol , yeah , those big jumps'll do that . Do you know how to seperate the sliders from the tubes ?

Sound . Seals are gone , are they ?

Hi there , these can be a bit tricky as the damper rod inside the fork spins with the bolt as you turn it . Sometimes you can crack 'em loose with an impact screwdriver with the right bit for the allen head bolt . Failing that , a broomhandle or similar with a taper shaved into it . Push the broomhandle down the fork until it wedges tightly into the top of the damper rod . You should then be able to loosen the retaining bolt . Why are you taking them apart ?

It sounds to me like the bike is scavenging air somewhere . Check your carb inlet rubbers for cracks and make sure the airbox is sealed properly .

Well done , it's a nice feeling when you sort it yourself .

Try running it with the filler cap off to see if the fuel tank breather is blocked and go over the carb again to check the float height and float valve/seat for wear . Best o' luck .

W.T.F. !!! I'd bin that and get me a 2 wheeler ! 2 wheels good ! 3 wheels bad ! ( unless you've reason to want 'em of course ) . Maybe the rest of the thing looks better ?

Well done . Keep your chain in good order or it will happen again .

Nice job man ! You don't fancy giving my LC a rub o' the rag do you ? lol .

Where do we get these "placebos" , are they expensive ?