KevtheRev

Did you price new stanchions (chrome tubes ) ? They can be repaired up to a point , but if they are creased or split they are scrap . You could try to get a half decent second hand set and have 'em rolled and rechromed but it all takes time . Best o' luck .

You'll have to search for the missing link , something that you've forgotten to reconnect . Did you move the generator stator or coils ?

Make sure you bed in new brakes by using them very gently for a coupla hundred miles .

No bother !

It is normal to have a drop of gunk in the airbox drain tube , hence the stopper . Also , some bikes have a crankcase breather which on modern bikes is routed into the airbox so any vapours can be burnt by the engine . If there's a lot of oil , I'd take the sound advice given above .

That makes a lot of sense Cynic . I never ran into that problem with any of my DT's , thankfully .

It might fit on the bike , but a carb with too big a bore for the bikes state of tune may not draw enough air to lift the fuel from the needle jet . If the bike is running well I'd leave it alone . Unless you want lots of worms jumping out of the can you've opened .

Ah yeah , your bike is definitely haunted . Seriously though , check the cable routing ,(you've probably done this already ) . Then check all the gaskets and rubbers between the airbox and cylinder inlet , as it sounds to me as if the bike is scavenging air from somewhere causing the engine to race . If it was 40 yrs ago I'd have advised you to check the inside of the cylinder head for carbon deposits which heat up and cause a condition called "pre ignition" , where the red hot carbon fires the fuel charge prematurely . I haven't seen that one in a long time due to modern fuels and two stroke oils being cleaner . Also check your ignition switch wiring as the bike should've stopped when you switched it off . Best of luck !

Right , just saw your second post , ignore the above , lol .

Hi there , adjusting the spring tension adjusts pre-load only ( i.e. to suit riders / luggage of different weights ) . Some shocks also have adjustment for damping and rebound damping , and some also have adjustment for high and low speed damping . These adjustments are usually made by turning an adjuster screw ( intervals measured by "clicks" in or out ) , which can be at different locations on the shock body . Without knowing exactly which shock you have it's impossible to be more specific . Usually Hagon shocks come with an advice / instruction sheet , failing that you should give them a ring .

Sound !

And you'll be hung out like a bedraggled Superman in the rain .

You'll need longer brake lines too , and possibly wiring for the switchgear as well . Bars like that will also change the feel of the steering quite a lot .

I love the smell of Silkolene Two Stroke oil early in the morning .

Why/How , were they removed ? Was the exhaust butchered ? Are they replaceable baffles ? It's hard to give advice without knowing the problem .

Depends on the gearing . You'll find that the power runs out a good bit before the redline , even if it does get louder .

Oh well , I drove around for years on my CB500 courier hack , with one of those bicycle speedo's that use a little magnet stuck to the wheel , cost a fiver , worked a treat , except in the dark , lol.

Alright man , bro' says the scitsu type will work on a 6v bike , BUT , they're expensive , and could cost more than going with the original set up . He said they're very good quality tho' and have great after sales service , and if you sell the bike you could keep the clock . You might find something a bit cheaper that works on the same principle , i.e . doesn't connect into the loom , unlike the one above . Best of luck .

Gotcha , as far as I know they(the scitsu type ) have an internal battery which must be charged and they don't connect into the bike's electrics as such . You might be still able to use one . I'll ask the bro' .

Does he still have that rack lying around somewhere ? I think Laura will be in the market . Nothing worse than a loose rattly top box .

Alright man , it's always a good idea to make sure the electrics are good before you go messing with the carbs . But , I think if this was an electrical problem you would have unburnt fuel coming from the exhaust . Cleaning the carb isn't a big job but there are lots of small parts and delicate adjustments . Take note of the positions of air screw , throttle stop etc , by counting the turns in until gently seated and place them in the same positions on reassembly . It would be best to have a diagram and the specifications at hand if you're not familiar with the job . Gaskets can be made , but they're small and fiddly to cut out and are quite cheap to buy (I think) , and the aerosol carb cleaners work well as do those small ultrasonic cleaners people use for cleaning jewellery . Check the condition of the float valve needle and seat for wear and replace them if necessary (save you trouble later ) . Don't forget to banish any rust or debris from the fuel system or you could find yourself becoming an expert on carb cleaning . It might be a good idea to overhaul the other carb while you're there , but do one at a time so as not to mix up the parts . Best o' luck !

They work very well . I'd go for a good quality one . My brother had a "Scitsu/Scitzu" ? unit on his race bike , never gave any trouble .

Sounds to me like there is rust in the carburettor on the side that's not firing . From the description you gave that would be my first guess .

Well I never , I never heard of that method before . I use the same method as DT above .

Hi there , it's not that hard either way , but the helicoil inserts mean you dont have to drill away so much metal , and are harder wearing . You'll definitely find a video on utube showing how to fit a thread insert . Fair play for wanting to learn about your bike .