KevtheRev

I usually drill a small "keyway" , in between the shaft and the lever and use a nail as a key . Never slip again .

Before you buy a new engine , just check if your gearlever is tight on the shaft as a loose one can cause similar symptoms .

Use it up , I did for yrs with no ill effects . Scottoilers are the business .

Thanks guys , this bike , while mostly complete , has been a basket case for years . I've newly reconditioned barrels and new pistons ready but have to get a crankshaft and a fuel tank . Does anybody make a fibreglass or plastic tank for these as good second hand ones seem to be as rare as hobby horse's shite ?

Hmm , maybe I'll keep the battery . I got a Giuliari seat off a mate and I think if I get one of the gel batteries I can hide it under the seat hump .

Hi people , Does anyone have experience of running an LC with no battery ? I'd only need to run front and rear lights . I read somewhere years ago that this can be done by fitting a resistor between the battery leads , but I can't find any info . Cheers .

Does anyone make a disc lock which can be plugged into the mains ? Just a thought . A bloke I knew , who lived in a high crime area , ran wires from his HT coils to the handlebars where he stripped off the insulation and wrapped the copper around the grips like lockwire . He'd flip a hidden switch to "arm" his anti theft device , lol .

Will the bike pass the mot if you remove the kill switch altogether for the test ? (Assuming the ignition works ).

What part of the bike do you align the lazer with ?

Yep , that's them , I never bothered to jack up the front ,

Good advice above , but my guess is a sticky or badly routed cable , due do the fact that you have this problem on turning the bars . When you are fitting your new cable , oil it well and it'll last years ( make a little funnel from the corner of a plastic bag , pop the cable through the pointy bit and tape it to the cable , put a little oil in your funnel and hang the cable upright somewhere until oil drips from the lower end ) . While you're there check the condition of the carb inlet rubber , if it's cracked or perished it can leak air into the mix causing the engine to race . Best of luck .

Alright man , a crankcase splitting tool is not essential , a flywheel puller is but they're quite cheap and you'll have it forever . The only other tricky bit is locking the clutch , but you'll make up a clutch locking tool easy enough if you don't want to buy one . Being honest I have put engines like this back together without splitting them but I wouldn't do it now as it only takes a tiny metal shaving to shred a seal or ruin a crank , meaning you'll have to split it anyway . The Haynes manual is a great guide , the gear cluster can be kept as an assembly with no need to dismantle it . Take your time on dis-assembly and you'll have a good idea how it goes back together . Good advice from all above . This way , when you get it back together you won't have any niggling worries about your engine and nobody with a brain would like to give advice that could cause a failure and maybe serious injuries if you are on the bike when it fails . And just think how good that celebratory beer will taste when you get it back together . Best of luck !!

Hi there , those old monoshocks are pretty tough . If you want to jack it up ( for offroad only ) . Remove the shock from the frame and you'll see the "eye" where the shock mounting bolt goes through . The eye end is threaded onto the shock and can be screwed off . The spacers that were available were just like a long hexagonal nut with a threaded portion on one end matching the original thread on the shock . The spacer screws on in place of the eye , the eye then screws back onto the spacer . If you know anyone in a machine shop it would be very easy to make one up . Cynic was correct in saying this causes the chain to rub the swingarm , you need to have the swingarm chain roller and the spring loaded chain tensioner in good nick and the chain given a little slack . Having said all that I don't know if there's any practical advantage . We used to do it " ' cos it looked cool " lol , and it does . Ah , to be 17 again .

Does the bike have the standard air filter fitted ? If I was you I'd split the cases and if the big end feels ok after a clean I'd fit new main bearings and seals (after cleaning the cases ) . Best of luck .

Don't be afraid to connect the leads and see if the bike will start . If not , switch the leads . If it starts it's right .

You can use a suitable replacement bolt . I always like to use Allen headed bolts for engine covers . Just be aware , if you overtighten bolts on something like this you run the risk of bending the part you're bolting on , making it harder to get a leak free seal , Try to tighten the bolts evenly when doing 'em up .

It's always easier to find neutral from 2nd gear than from 1st , I've found . Also make sure there is no play at the gearlever , as play here will always ensure sloppy gearchanges .

Sound !

Don't blow the dust off ! , Better to use the hoover .

I'd say either the hose is perished , or the stub where the hose goes on has been bent oval by a wallop off something . That's my best guess from your info .

Bingo !!

Sound advice above . If the chain has some mileage on it check to see if it has a "tight spot" . If you spin the back wheel with the bike on the mainstand (minding your fingers , or anyone's helping you ) , and watch the chain you'll see it tighten and slacken . Adjust it at the tightest part . If it's very bad a new chain and sprockets is best and will make your bike feel much improved . If the sprocket teeth are very sharp or hooked , they're well knackered .

Ah , time for good old trial and error on the mystery speedo wires . If they were cut the colours should still match up , no ? What's not working ? Haynes manuals are the message , local libraries here have'em and you can get them to order them in if they don't have the right one . Pity they don't have your year , although maybe there would be a lot of stuff in common with your bike ? Try to get a second hand manual as a guide , but don't take it as gospel .Best o' luck and fair play , you'll get there .

Did you price new stanchions (chrome tubes ) ? They can be repaired up to a point , but if they are creased or split they are scrap . You could try to get a half decent second hand set and have 'em rolled and rechromed but it all takes time . Best o' luck .

You'll have to search for the missing link , something that you've forgotten to reconnect . Did you move the generator stator or coils ?