KevtheRev

The XJ tank is quite similar . I was looking at a Z 400 tank the other day which could suit . I'm not too fussy about how original it looks . I think It might be less hassle to find a tank as there's no saying the old one will seal up . I wish my poor LC looked like my brother's . <a href="http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/bigkev777KevtheRev/media/Petes%20pics%2031-01-15%20025_zpsodgfgkbk.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag59/bigkev777KevtheRev/Petes%20pics%2031-01-15%20025_zpsodgfgkbk.jpg" border="0" alt="Bro&#039;s LC photo Petes pics 31-01-15 025_zpsodgfgkbk.jpg"/></a> <a href="http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/bigkev777KevtheRev/media/Petes%20pics%2031-01-15%20017_zps4slug5du.jpg.html"target="_blank"><img src="http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag59/bigkev777KevtheRev/Petes%20pics%2031-01-15%20017_zps4slug5du.jpg" border="0" alt="Bro&#039;s LC . photo Petes pics 31-01-15 017_zps4slug5du.jpg"/></a>

I was thinking of , getting the rust sorted , chemical metal along the seams , fibreglass and fill the exterior and then seal the interior with one of the fuel tank sealers you can get (there's a few out there ) . Any suggestions/advice/experiences would be appreciated . Otherwise I'll just have to see what I can pick up and adapt to fit .

Hi people , I took the tank from my old elsie and stripped back the old paint and filler to reveal a sorry old mess . It's got more dents than a golfball and so many holes in it that it could be used as a colander . It also has a huge flap cut in the underside where I suspect the tank was cut open to remove old broken filler caps ( these were the getaway machine of the '80's and thieves would simply smash the locked cap down into the tank with a hammer when they needed a refill ) and then brazed back together . Oh , and it's full of rust ! Now , my question is , has anyone managed to rescue a tank like this for reasonable money as new LC tanks ain't cheap , neither are second hand ones for that matter . Or does anyone know of a tank from a different bike which might suit ? Tanks in advance , Kev .

Make sure the HT leads have not been switched around ( by switching them around and trying it ) . On some parallel twins it makes no difference which way round they are fitted , not sure about your V-twin though . Give it a whack , you never know .

With a lot of the newer type spark plugs , once they are fouled they are bunched . There's no cleaning them and they just have to be replaced .

Don't use the throttle while using the cold start . When the bike fires allow it to idle (no revving ) until the temp needle comes up off cold . Turn the cold start off . Go easy until the engine is properly warmed up .

I was trying to rule out big end or main bearing trouble Blackhat ,

Can you feel the knock through the footpegs ?

Chinese crap , recycled condoms .

I got a chance to google a diagram of the XVS 650 rear wheel set up . As far as I can see the bike has the usual triangular rubber blocks seen on most bikes . So please ignore my earlier post ( unless you've a CG125 , lol ) . Never buy spurious cush drive rubbers as they are made of crap .

Hmm , I've never used that stuff on an LC head . If you do use it , will you use the gasket as well ? When using that stuff don't squeeze it on like toothpaste as I've seen people do when using it on clutch/magneto/waterpump covers , on a 4stroke it blocks the oilways very quickly and depending on which colour used can make your engine oil look very pretty as the lumps get chewed in the gears . Better to put a tiny bit on your finger and lightly coat the mating surface . If you spit on your finger first it works better ( ahem ) . A thin film's all you need . I'd rub the mating surface of the head on a piece of plate glass with some fine emery paper taped to it and try a new gasket first though . With your bike stripped already it's a 5 minute job . Nothing wrong with those bolts that a squirt of oil wont sort out .

Just been googling , as far as I can make out your bike has the same set up as the 350YPVS including the same servomotor so it should be easy enough to get info/parts .

No man , it should be opened by the servo (where the cables start , not the pv end ) , when the revs reach a certain point .

Did you check where the wires are soldered onto the ignition barrel , the solder can let go sometimes ?

Like I said man , I'm not sure about your bike , but if it's the same set up as a YPVS350/125 there's a little slot in the cable holder/pv pulley that you line up with a little hole in the metal casing ,( You have to remove the cover on the end of the PV where the cables go in ) , and hold it there with a drill bit or a nail . Then you adjust your cables as per owners manual . Hope that helps man ,

Hi there Hebob , I'm not sure what type of cush is on your bike but the guys above seem to think they are the triangular rubber blocks which do indeed come out easily . However from the info you give I'm thinking you may have the little barrel shaped ones similar to what's in a CG125 and they are a bugger to remove/replace . If I'm right the only way to remove them without special tools is to remove the inner metal tube from the cush drive bush and then take a narrow bladed drift or chisel to the outer ring . The idea is to bend the outermost metal sleeve of the bush in toward the centre , which should allow you to remove it . That's how I've always done it . BUT .... be very careful , as it is all too easy to crack the bush housing if you are not . Best of luck ! Whereabouts in Éire are you ?

Check that the cables are lubed and moving freely and that the powervalve is in the proper position before you adjust the cables . I'm not sure about your particular model but most Yam powervalves have a hole in the cable holder which has to be lined up with a similar hole in the metal of the powervalve casing prior to adjustment .

Stick the CB500 motor in there man , you'll never have to look at it again . Those things are bombproof ( just kidding , lol ).

Nice clean LC , I wish mine looked like that . Shouldn't there be an overflow tube on the expansion bottle ? Some of the newer type layered metal head gaskets seem to be almost impossible to seal properly .

For anyone who is trying to trace electrical problems without a multimeter , a battery and bulb can be put to good use for checking for broken wires etc . They can often break inside the insulation and can be hard to find .

Just check that your battery terminals are clean and tight before delving any further . I know wiggling the bars seemed to be leading to your problem but just check anyway .

Hi Ski , nice bike man . Who cares what the mileage reads .

Make sure the vent in the fuel cap is not plugged with dirt .

1. Place a large boot on your right foot . 2. Push down the kickstarter until you feel the compression build toward top dead centre . 3. Use the decompressor to get the piston just past TDC . 4. Kick the Bejesus out of it ! If it doesn't start go back to 2 and try again . You will get the hang of it . If you think the YZF is hard to start have a try with an XR650 . You'll be glad to get back on the YZF , lol .