KevtheRev

I'd be more worried about that baldy back tyre .

Whip the cover off and have a look , there are small cutaways in the clutch plain plates to reduce clutch noise . They may be mis-aligned , if not, check the basket and centre for notching . If the original cluthplates are in the bike they may have stuck together over time . They're easily replaced .

Hold on , before you do anything , check the condition of your fuel petcock at the tank to make sure it's not leaking and check the carb floats / float needle and seat as if any of these arent working it will allow fuel to reach the engine while the bike's not running .

You never mentioned a bigger piston , and I mentioned sand as you said you lived on the beach . I've seen new piston rings break because the bore wasn't honed properly after a re-bore . That'll cause backfiring and sticking too , usually accompanied by rattling and vibration . As for an electrical problem , what's your battery like ? If the reg/rec is fooked the battery won't charge and could affect running if it goes flat ., or a broken or shorting wire to the HT coil or points/CDI unit/ignition . Is your stator plate aligned properly (did you mark it's position before removal ?) . A bigger piston doesn't necessarily mean you need to increase the main jet size . Is the spark plug wet and/or sooty as a sticking choke or rich fuelling can also cause the symptoms you describe .

P.p.s. You don't have sand in the float bowl do you ?

P.s. Your best bet is to get a workshop manual (Haynes are good ) and get your carb back to standard settings . That'll be one off the list and a good starting point .

P.s. Your best bet is to get an workshop manual for a few bucks and make sure you've the carb back to standard setting , that'll be one off the list .

You wouldn't be a tooth out on the cam or anything like that would you ? Don't overtighten the exhaust bolts , better to get as new copper ring seal as they are only a few cents . Was the bike running well before , and did you replace the camchain ? I can't tell if you've done many miles after the rebuild but I'd check the top end for oil starvation esp if any rubbery instant gasket goo has been used . Don't panic , it could be a small electrical or fuelling problem and you'll just need to eliminate the suspects one by one in a methodical fashion . Best I can say on the info you gave . Fair dues for giving it a bash .

No as long as it's not kinked or pinched anywhere it should be okay . Always double check before going out on the road tho' .

Hi there Adam . A few well placed cable ties will tidy that up for you . I'd pull most of the slack up toward the top , kinda like a motocrosser . You can loosen the top banjo bolt to change the angle of the brakeline if needs be , but you'll have to bleed the brake after . You don't want that bowed out bit in the pic catching on someones tow hitch .

Me too !

They'll be alright , lol . You wouldn't happen to have a tank and a crank (or any other bits ) for an ageing old lady who's been round the track a few times , but would like to kick up her skirts for a while yet , would you ?

Just don't forget , old bikes ran on points ignition , new bikes don't . Nothing wrong with points by the way .

The HT coil would be the least of your worries as most will run at 6 or 12 v but the ECU and any other sensitive components may not . PS I'm no electrician but I'm sure anyone with more knowledge will tell you the same . I often had the same idea as you when using a 6v bike , crap lights etc but I think it's more trouble than it's worth . Unless of course you know an auto sparks who knows better than me .

You'll have to change your reg/rec , relays and bulbs . Will the generator handle a 12v battery ? I'd leave well enough alone buddy . There are nice digital speedos for bicycles which work well and need no connection to the bike's battery .

Just remember , until you know different , everybody else on the road is deaf , blind and stupid . Even if an accident is someone else's fault the motorcyclist is usually the one to come off worst so assume nothing and take nothing for granted . Motorcycling thrusts personal responsibility on you like nothing else . Who says bikers are irresponsible ? Not from where I'm sitting !

My bike however is an Irish reg'd bike .... And you wouldn't half know it ! Everything breakable has been broken/discarded and everything else finished in a nice farmyard Red Lead and tastefully contrasting JCB Yellow !!!!

The bike was actually a German import and whoever put it together knew what they were doing , it had a serious tune . Bro' blew it up flat out on the back roads one day and it lay in a box for years . The colour was battleship grey but Bro' changed it to the fetching R1/Candy Blue with metal flake we see today .

One o' those "Coulda been worse " situations . Drove as a despatcher for 20yrs before that without a penalty point .

You can still get all the mechanical stuff for 'em pretty easily , if a little expensively . I've one in the garage needs a crank and a tank . I won't be getting it as pretty as bro's but I'll make a useful bike out of it . I been off the road since I picked up a 4yr ban about 6yrs ago and I can't wait to get the bike running . Funds , as always are the limiting factor . I've a nice set of Allspeed stainless pipes from an air cooled 400 that were on bro's bike so I know they'll work well . Gonna put a race seat unit on and a digital speedo . I'll post up some pics of the neglected old girl soon .

Uh oh ! Those bubbles can be impossible to get rid of . Luckily it'll do no harm . If it was a bubble in the two stroke delivery pipe(s) , that would be a different thing altogether . Always use clear 2stroke delivery pipes so you can keep an eye on it . I'd follw Airhead's suggestion and get a black fuel line , that should get rid of 'em for you .

Cheers Slice , I'll keep that in mind .

Yeah , nice isn't it . Only took him 10yrs , lol .