KevtheRev

Here's the story . A friend of mine was pootling around on an absolute dog of a Super Tenere . He never checked it for oil . The other day it shit a plank . I was kind of glad because it wasn't the most roadworthy machine I've ever seen by a long long shot . Matey (bit mechanically challenged), said it started making funny noises so he continued on at 70mph until the bike refused to put up with it any more and gave up the ghost . (Here's where I come in ) He got it vanned home (first mistake , I thought), and asked me for a diagnosis . I turned the key and pushed the button and she fired up . HOLY SHIT !! What a racket , knocking , banging , and the screeching of .....something . From the noise I thought the bike had dropped a valve so I whipped off the head and lo and behold , not a bother on them . Hmmm !!? .So anyone had a similar experience ? Any suggestions as to what finished her off ? When I drained the oil there was about 1 1/2 ltres in it . I reckon it's the crank or the mains .

if the allen key fits well and the head on the bolt is in good nick , try using a metal tube slipped over the end of the allen key to gain more leverage . If there's a nut on the other side loosen it first .

The trickiest bit is getting the damper rod retaining bolts out (the ones in the bottom of the fork leg ) . Take care not to butcher them or you'll have to drill 'em out . Not the end of the world , but messy none the less . I (carefully ) held the fork leg in a bench vise and used an impact screwdriver with an Allen fitting to loosen 'em . I was lucky as the forks had a flat surface to grip , where the mudguard bolts in . An assistant is a help . Once you remove the fork clamps and bearing rollers from the frame you'll see there are cutaways inside the steering tube which will allow you to drift out the old bearing races . Try to keep 'em square in the tube as you drift 'em out . Tapered needle bearings are an improvement on the standard balls and much easier to fit . You can use the old bearing races or a suitably sized (old) socket to drift in the new ones . As for the bearing which goes on the bottom clamp , it's best pushed on with a metal tube of the right diameter . I hope that helps , if you get stuck let us know . Best of luck !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TE-FOURCHE-INFERIEUR-YAMAHA-350-RDLC-RD-350-LC-RD350LC-31K-1983-1985-/351198158307?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_71&hash=item51c50a9de3 Not sure if these are the right ones , could be off an LC , looks like that olive green finish .

How did you get on John ? I did new tapered headrace bearings , fork seals and chain and sprockets and rear tyre replacement in an afternoon on my CG125 .

Is your choke sticking ? Just a guess .

I thought you said it was air cooled !! Lol , don't drink the water .

Strip and clean the brake ,( new seals are very inexpensive), The piston may clean up ok , but if it's corroded or pitted replace it , again , not too expensive . And grease the slider pins when you rebuild it . I don't like braided hose for rear brakes as it can make the brake action very sharp . I do think they make a great improvement for front brakes though (I had a set on an NC30 , the brakes would nail the thing to the road ) . While you have the brake disassembled just check the pedal action to rule out any problems at that end .

I used a digital bicycle speedo from Halfords (10 bucks ) for years on my CB500 . It worked perfectly but was a bit dodgy at night as it had no backlight , lol .

Alright man , I'm sure you could swap fairings but not without a lot of messing about . Have you checked for Tyga bodywork or pattern race fairing ?

Words of wisdom above . I made that mistake , junked the airbox/battery holder . I had to have a holder made up , and then the bike seized through running lean .

Feck !! That's good value . If you put two sets on I'd say you'd have to bungee yourself onto the saddle .

Maybe it's banjaxed , lol . Or the flatslides could be a bit turbulent for it . Does the TDR have a vacuum operated fuel tap ? Maybe you'd get a steadier vacuum there? I wonder are there any vacuum-less drip feed oilers available that might suit ??

Ha Ha Haaaaa!!! , I'll be ordering two , 'cos my Elsie's a twin !

Hope you get it sorted mate . Btw , you dont need a jack to adjust/lube your chain . All you need is an adjustable spanner that'll fit the spindle nut and a 10/12 mm open spanner for the adjusters . Shouldn't cost more than a fiver for both . My last word on this , - SCOTTOILER .

A 125 can ruin a chain and sprockets in a few hours depending on the cackhandedness or inattention of the person fitting it .

Whoever invented those crappy exhaust bandages should be mummified in the bloody things . I think they were designed to last just long enough to fool a prospective buyer !!

I think you could be right . Take the exhaust off and shine a light in there .

All nice bikes , I'd love an IT 490 , with lights and a reg .

Anyone ever bump start a small two stroke backwards ? It works , although I don't know how the autolube pump would react .

Ah ! Well , there's your problem , lol .

I had that with a Honda Benley years ago , gearbox eventually ate itself due to a failed bearing . Double check the brakes esp the brake locator on the rear .

Great job man , those are a lovely little bike . I'd flog the Honda !

Ah gotcha , apologies , I forgot you might get the odd scrote reading on here . Point taken .

There is a black and white wire from the cdi , or there should be . If.......kill switch position . (Mod edit, Cynic) That kind of info wants to be in a pm. Know what i mean.