aunty

take out and inspect the pads if one has come off its backing or is starting to.. you could be in trouble! also check fluid levels and possibly bleed the feckers. worst comes worst change fluids,

turn bike on, start it, rev it up and while its mid revs turn the bike off from the key. now put your ear near the servo motor for the exup valve and try turning the ingnition on (without starting the bike) if you don't hear it don't panic too much... chances are its fine, because if its stuck your bike won't wana rev past 6000 revs with out sounding like a cat in a broken blender. i know, i have been through this poo myself!!

You should be able to find the fuel inlet from there then, let me know if it finaly runs ok mate.

Dude replace it imediately! if its stiff, every time it goes round the sproket at eighther end it will be creating a lot of friction, in an 80 mile trip, the chances are, it will be eighther wearing its self loose (say good bye to the side of you calf muscle when it lets go!) or its will eventualy weaken the metal with its constant cycle of heating and cooling....then break. i've seen first hand what damage a chain can do when it lets go on a motocrosser at about 40 mile an hour, what speed do you do ?!? I know its a jip to pay for a new chain, but better that than new boots and possible surgery!! sorry to be the bearer of this news... don't shoot the messenger!

Sounds most likely a fueling problem, if it has been stood a while, change the fuel, then you may need to clean the carburators out paying specail attention to the pilot jet (a cheap second hand haynes manual off ebay should help you do this) then make sure the float hieghts are all correct. Then there maybe a little fuel filter in the fuel pipe, where the fuel pipe connects to the carburaters- this some times can get semi blocked so pull it out, clean it then put it back. if all this fails try removing the petrol pump, joining the fuel tank strait to the carburetors and running it then (make sure the tank is FULL when you do this, so gravity will do its thing) this is beacaue some times the fuel pumps run for a bit then they just stop! this is a cdi unit problem usualy and its very doubtfull that this is whats going on. Hope this helps in some way

easiest way is to drill through the 8mm holes with a 10mm drill ! as for the bulb, plug it in to the wiring loom then slide it to where you think it should go, then try to figure out what you can do from there. mybe make a template from cardboard, then you can try making something a bit more sturdy from there.

I would start by cheacking the head races (the bearings that hold the steering head to the chassis) sit on the bike at a stand still and turn the bars slowy side to side if you can feel a slight notch when the steering passes the strait ahead position, then you need to change them strait away. then quickly check your handle bars rare in the correct position and are equal with each other, if they're ok make sure some one hasn't tried to drop the forks through the yokes to sharpen the steering (best get a manual for the corect measurement procces here). if all else fails get a new set of MATCHING tyres, preferably with a nice rounded even profile. hope this of some help. (p.s. i know it a bit lame but check your tyre pressure too, some times the simplest things are over looked by all of us at times)

Try a new cdi unit, get a cheap one off ebay for about £40.

i've finaly put some picys up of my long term project, there on the gallery page if anyones bored and fancies a look. tell us what you recon?! thanks, Dave.

Hi there thought some one may find this vaguely interesting. its my YZR 4/7 Its a 1990 FZR400RR with a YZF750R engine in it. it has a GSXR 400 RRSP rear shock (fullt adjustable) with home made linkages, FZR400RRSP head stock with forks (fully adjustable), Home made rear sets- made with help of original setup. R1 rear standard can for MOT, it Has Stage 3 Dyno Jet, K&N filters and a mild Gas flow. The original engine placement was done by a bike shop called Streetfighter (now closed down thanks fully), basicaly they made a complete balls up of it!! After the frame cracking for about the 3rd time, the Engine was taken out, re-aligned and any week points on the frame were welded up and heavily braced from behind the frame rails (see photos). The electrics are essentaily a dogs dinner mix of 400 to 750 joining, most things are similar, but a few things took a LONG while to finaly sort out. it all fits now though and is a PLEASURE to ride!! i raced it for a while in the 1300 open race series, won few cups and came second in the championship twice in a row.... not too bad against R1's and GSXR1000's !! she's finaly been put back out to pasture on the open road as of today!! woooot (if anyone has any questions or owt, i would be more than happy to reply!) Cheers, Dave.