madrevs

All adjusted will take it for a spin tomoro and see if its made a difference. Is it usual for the left cable adjuster to be set alot further out than the right one.as thats the only way I could get the hole to line up

Will try that tomorrow its not out by alot but I presume its got quite fine tolerances.hopefully I will see an improvement

I also checked the powervalve was in the right position today.after turning ignition on the powervalve is sitting about half a cm away from keyway could this cause same symptoms

Checked the wiring out last night and the blue and red wire that goes from the clocks is connected tried pulling the fuse but made no difference

Checked the wiring out last night and the blue and red wire that goes from the clocks is connected tried pulling the fuse but made no difference

ok will try that.after a bit of googling seems the reed switch is a magnetic switch.found this on a site A Reed Switch consists of two ferromagnetic blades (generally composed of iron and nickel) hermetically sealed in a glass tube. The blades overlap internally in the glass capsule with a gap between them, and make contact with each other when in the presence of a suitable magnetic field. The contact area on both blades is plated or sputtered with a very hard metal, usually Rhodium or Ruthenium. These very hard metals give rise to the potential of very long life times if the contacts are not switched with heavy loads. The gas in the capsule usually consists of Nitrogen or some equivalent inert gas. Some Reed Switches, to increase their ability to switch and standoff high voltages, have an internal vacuum. The reed blades act as magnetic flux conductors when exposed to an external magnetic field from either a permanent magnet or an electromagnetic coil. Poles of opposite polarity are created and the contacts close when the magnetic force exceeds the spring force of the reed blades. As the external magnetic field is reduced so that the force between the reeds is less than the restoring force of the reed blades, the contacts open. reading that it seems the circuit needs to be closed(fuse in) for it to not retard the ignition.am i reading it right.also do u know where the red?blue wire goes as mine doesnt seem connected further down the loom.sorry for all the questions but everytime i touch automotive electrics things seem to go wrong lol

Have tried with a different account if u click the link u should be able too see it now

http://m.flickr.com/lightbox?id=11234570376

How do u do that then

http://imageshack.us/mobile/gallery.php Heres a better picture sorry its a link cant work out how to do it

Sorry for the bad pic didnt have time to take the clocks off again http://imageshack.com/i/0httrej

Thanks airhead its odd though cos further down the loom theres a blue/red wire not connected to anything.if someone has replaced the switch with a fuse does this mean its restricted or derestricted

Ok thanks thought it was abit silly after I done it but couldnt delete afterwards

Yeh definetly a diy job dont know why it would be added though the two wires that it joins arent even the same colour am a bit worried someones removed the reed switch in back of speedo and used a fuse to connect the two wires together.do u think this is the case

Both wires come out of clocks and look like they go back in to clocks