Jump to content

feliks

Free
  • Posts

    923
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by feliks

  1. Gotcha - the manual gave a few warnings about that too. Not a bad parts list! Should I be buying Yamaha gaskets then? I was going to get the whole gasket kit for $170 - but I'm not going to use like half of them so that may be pointless.... if the Yamaha stuff is better and won't cost a crapload I'll go with them. What do you suggest?
  2. Sweet, so I can just bring the whole bottom end in and they should be able to fix that hole up?
  3. Thanks man! Like you said getting it apart is easy.... it's getting it back together that'll be fun. Glad I have help here! #2 is the cylinder with the leak (so in the pic of the engine its the 2nd from the right). You can see some oil blow out at the top of the pic behind the cylinder, where the bolt can't tighten down. Cylinder housing is coming off next....
  4. I've seen it happen to one other fighter (on TV) - man that's gotta hurt.
  5. It does come off as one piece, valves and all....sweet! Learning is fun. Got the cylinder head off...now I can see the cylinders. The walls look like mirrors, no scratches or pitting at all from what I can see...however the piston heads are dirty as fuck! I still need to take the cylinder housing off....is that what it's called? What's the correct terminology here? Here's some progress pictures and a shot of cyl 1,2,3 & 4. IMG_5711 by feliks.ca, on Flickr IMG_5710 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl1 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl2 by feliks.ca, on Flickr cyl3 by feliks.ca, on Flickr This isn't a scratch it was just a piece of something the fell in there when I snapped the pic. cyl4 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
  6. Oh shitttttt. Silva broke his own leg kicking Weidman in the knee.....fuck. Silva's probably done now forever...too bad...he was a great fighter.
  7. Stupid question.... valves and the top end stays together and comes off as one piece, right? As long as I don't need to remove the valves...or am I crazy.
  8. Silva and Weidman is about to start.... Rousey beat Tate by armbar...surprise surprise.
  9. Woo got it! Trick was to leave the exhaust side cam caps on and remove the intake side first, otherwise there's no tension to be able to remove cams with the sprocket on. This worked perfectly! Thanks for the tip Flip! Maybe someone else using google one day will come across this thread and it'll help em out. Got one out, but UFC is on right now...so on hold until between fights. IMG_5709 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
  10. 10-4! Just didn't want to turn it if I was going to break something...
  11. Or you mean what way is the picture?? haha.... Front is down.
  12. yeah how else can you look at the crank? lol upside down? still be clockwise right?
  13. covers open and it's at TDC....puled the front tensioner out (big long ass piece) and the back one out (just the spring thing on the outside) - is there more?
  14. Yeah that's what I'm thinking, but at least the bottom end doesn't need to come apart right? As for the cams... how the hell do I get them out now? The book said to remove the sprockets but Flip said I didn't need to....seems like they're in there really tight even though I removed the tensioner on the back and the front.... Any ideas?? IMG_5702 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
  15. Success! Once the frame rails were out it was no problem! Even got my wife to help me take it out!!!! LOL!!!! I call that a success in itself. IMG_2353 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Now... here's the stripped bolt hole (this is for DT who wanted to see how far apart I should take the engine for the machinist) IMG_2351 by feliks.ca, on Flickr IMG_2349 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
  16. So according to my haynes manual, I have to remove the frame down tubes from the engine, and then remove the engine, I can't remove them as once piece.
  17. Ok, next question! Why won't the engine drop out? I've removed all bolts that would be holding it in...but it just seems stuck. Tried to pull and pry hard enough without breaking anything....but it doesn't seem to move past a couple of inches. I tried sliding the back forward first and down, then the front out...front out first, then back...nothing! Do I need to remove these bolts for some reason? I can't see why I would because they're attached to the frame that drops anyway....any advice?? IMG_5699 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
  18. Welcome! Darkness and cold never stopped me....but then again I live in Canada so in the winter that's more often than not....
  19. Excellent analysis. I had no turn entry point, I just tried to turn, which led to a number of Survival Reactions!
  20. Ah! Cool good to know! Why do I always start a project and then halfway through not have the right tool... where is my 12mm socket?!? Do I even have one?? NO. Why would I have a 12mm....the only one I need right now.... haha
  21. Oh, there's a nut that it spins onto? Well... you learn something new every day.... I have a feeling I'm going to learn a lot in the next few weeks!
  22. What large nut are you talking about? I disconnected the two fittings near the oil cooler and it came apart pretty easy. Yup wires are all disconnected now, just need to unbolt the frame and drop it down!
  23. It was the top two! Ok got everything ready for the engine to drop....took about 2 hours total. Not bad for a rookie! Sprocket on: IMG_5693 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Sprocket off! IMG_5694 by feliks.ca, on Flickr Now just need to disconnect the frame part and let her down, then get it up on the bench for inspection tomorrow. IMG_5696 by feliks.ca, on Flickr
×
×
  • Create New...