pfcdaz

eureka!!! that is exactly how i figured it to be. bloody anoying that they didn't see fit to put anything in the haynes manual. i am pretty hopeful about the MOT, there is a slight leak in the left fork seal, but a bit of rag under the gaiter hid it sufficiently last time i put it through the mot, and i have fixed all the other things it failed on now!!! i have a new stanchion on the way to solve the leak issue, but i am waiting for a mate to cut it out of a warped lower fork leg and i need to get the mot done in the school holidays while i am off work. fingers crossed, and thanks again

cheers mate, i think i have figured it out now, the previous owner had connected the large spring from the pedal to the switch, and part of the switch was mssing. the way i have set it up now is with the spring going from the pedal to a hook point on a bracket built into the silencer, and a piece of wire connecting the switch arm to the pedal. would be interested to know if i have it right now, it seems to work, and makes sense in terms of the parts that are visible. MOT 9am tomorrow.......

i had similar problems with my YB and the only way i could get the seals out in the end was to heat up the lower stanchion and seal, then fill the whole leg with water to the very top, put the screw back in to create a seal, then with a piece of wood on the upper stanchion, smack it with a bloody great lump hammer. after a good few bloes, much sweat and swearing, the pressure of the hammer blow is transmitted through the water and pops the seal out in a gush of manky liquid. it will work if the seal is leaking due to the treatment you have already given it, but it is much messier and you will have to keep topping up the water. good luck

hi, i have one thing left to fix on my yb100 to get it through the mot, and it is proving to be a massive pain. the rear brake pedal does not return after it is pressed down, and this means that the brake light stays on, automatic MOT fail....doh! unfortunately, there is nothing in the haynes manual about the correct set up for the brake pedal/switch system, and i am not convinced that the springs and parts were attached as they should be, unfortunately i have no frame of reference. i would be hugely grateful and forever in the debt of anyone who could take a couple of snaps of the mechanism on their bike and post them on here, alternatively message me and i could provide an email address. cheers in advance Daz

try MSR motorcycles in scarborough, (on the net) he had a complete yb100 for breaking, thats where i got my new forks from. not sure if the engine is decent or still available, but worth a try.... i have the manual but it makes out that all you do is tap the fork seals in, which deosn't seem possible when it is in front of you witthout about 4 pairs of hands

can't help you with that i'm afraid although i will certainly bear it in mind if a similar thing starts to happen to mine. i am restoring a YB100 myself and if you have read any of my other posts you will see i am having a complete nightmare trying to get the forks in working order. when you did yours did you have to replace the fork seals? and if so, how in gods name did you get them back together again, as far as i can see you have to compress the fork to get the top bush in far enough to tap the oil seal down, but that means i can't get a bit of tube over the stanchion to tap it in with. any tips?

hving spent the last couple of weeks trying to get my forks to pieces i thought i would share the final solution with y'all in case anyone else has similar problems. the forks are off a 1984 yb100, and aledgedly seperate easily once you remove the spacer and circlip from above the oild seal, put the bottom end in a vice and give it a few sharp tugs. reality time....after managing to seperate the vice from the bench mounting we ralised we were not on to a winner, so as a last ditch tactic we tried something i had seen on a webste on the net, but not been convinced by. first step, heat the fork stanchion around the seal until the metal on the seal is red hot. we tried first without heat but got nowhere fast. once hot, fill the whole stanchion with water, let it rest for a few seconds and top up. it must be filled totall for this to work. screw the bolt into the top of the stanchion to seal it. at this point it should be impossible to compress the fork at all. now the fun part, put a bit of wood on top of the fork stanchion, get a friend to hold it on and also hold the stanchion, get a heavy mallet and hit the thing. the physics of it say that the force of the mallet is transfered through the water and against the back of the fork seal, pushing it out. and believe it or not it works. after a lot of hammering, and mm by mm movement eventually the seal will pop out in a rush of water. jobs a goodun. hope this may help someone with similar problems to me in future

one of the anoyances about the yb, there is no bolt at the bottom of any kind. i have managed to secure the use of a friends vice, so hopefully i will have more success pulling them apart with one end held securely.

not been able to get the stantions off, according to my haynes manual they should pull apart, but i am getting no joy at all.

finally got some forks from a breaker for my yb, but the oil seals are gone and need replacing. i have managed to remove the (rusty) circlip and spacer that sit on top of the oil seal, but the seal itself is recessed quite deep and it ain't budging. anyone got some good suggestions on how to get the piggin things out, cos i am close to losing my rag with it!!! cheers

kinda random, but i spent 2 days with an avo trying to get a spark on my yb100, gave up, suirted some WD40 in the ignition switch, through the gap where the key goes, and hey presto problem solved. not saying it will work, but its another place to squirt the magic spray if you are running out of ideas

check the bulbs, make sure they haven't blown (obvious i know) and check the earth wires, if you have a bad earth it may be causing your problem. sonds like some sort of short, get an avo meter, check if there is a current across the bulb, then work through the wires till you find the problem. very tedious and exactly what i had to do with mine. you could try cleaning all the connections with WD-40 that may help if you have a dirty conection somewhere.

with the engine running, everything should work without the battery tbh, on mine, the lights don't work at all if the engine is not running, and my battery is fairly new.

everything should run without the battery, thats not a problem, the batteries are pretty useless, only 6v on my yb when i bought it i found a few 12v bulbs instead of 6v ones, if someone has done similar to yours, that may explain why you need to rev it in order to get more power. are they aftermarket indicators? if so are they 12v indicators that have been put on by mistake. i have the workshop manual but not handy. check the indicator bulbs and post the details, i can check if they are the write ones as the wrong resistance will affect flashing speed (or so the local garage told me!) incidentally do you have any spare front forks for it, cos mine are knackered!

right then...on the plus side i have managed to repair the fork with a patch. seems to be holding up ok, however now i have a new problem. the previous owner has damaged the seat at the top of the lower leg where the fork seal goes, i think he has used pliers on it at some point and flattened what should be a perfectly circular seat. this means the oil seal won't fit properly. i am paranoid about wrecking the fork while trying to unbend the metal, and it is quite thick so not easy to do, any suggestions, i could really use the help, cos the local bike shop want £50+ to do the job for me.