Nightfirez

thought it might be easier to pop a pic up the only thing I can come up with is it is chain wear as the adjuster is quite far in

Hey all been a while finally got around to sorting out the inlet valve on the SR knowing it had badly mushroomed and kept shearing the adjusters had a ball trying to get the old valve out had to grind it down so it would pass through the guide no major drama really just an hour with a small file popped in a new adjuster new valve seal and obviously new valve nicely lapped in flushed out the top end oil path ways didn't find much gunk and gave the top end a once over cams have no sign of wear neither do the rocker arms thought right time to follow the manual and put it back together again no major drama shocker for me I know lol now one thing im not overly sure of I lined up all the markers and reinstalled the cam chain about half a dozen times the closest I can get them all to been perfectly lined up is to with in half a cam chain link's length im just wondering if that would be an acceptable tolerance ? as there is no real guide in the manual I have thanks in advance

it might work the same ... worth a go at least i cleaned a bunch of carb parts / entire carb by poping them in to an air tight container and filling it with carb cleaner untill all the parts were covered just left them in there soaking for a few days gave it a shake a good shake drained it left it to dry out and then sprayed more carb cleaner through as a test on a spare carb it came out pretty clean no tacky residue left in at least the only thing really after that to be of concern is loose weld bits inside and allyoxide

clean what you can get to you might be able to get away with spraying carb cleaner up the overflow pipe a few times only issue is you will never know how much crud is actualy in there

This is the state of the intake valve the out isnt much better this is the intake adjuster screw which are the parts im replaceing

DOH that might help wouldnt it i just bought replacement adjustment screws as to me the ends of these look a little mashed they arived today so just installing them now was really just wondering if i should need to do any of the other parts but it looks to me like just the end of the adjusters have taken a pounding with there been too much clearance gap since its stripped ill take some pics and post them might be easier

Hey ya My SR 125 has developed a Top end rattle so i striped it down to check the clearance and found this to be out of tolerance by about 2.5 / 3 mm with the amount of play there was at TDC any way i loosened off the lock nut and took out the adjuster to find on closer inspection there appeared to be chips missing out of it and it been hammered out of shape no biggie Ive ordered some new ones any way for the time been i adjusted the clearance back to with in spec put the bike back together and it was running sweet as a nut so i know ive solved the problem but possibly not found the root cause of it at the moment i am assuming that over time they have just worked loose or just due to the nature of the pressures the parts would be under a consent hammering action this would be semi normal wear and tear exaggerated by the extra gap while they were out of adjustment but i am wondering if i should replace the valve end parts Cotters ect they look OK to me but been honest im more of a 2T person than a 4T well with regards to working on them at least is there anything else i should look for

Yep they are a dream to work on So easy lol

done 2 spaces left

re bleed the front break on saturday and cleaned out the caliper / seals polished up the piston it now feels like a break rather than a sponge also decided to remove the mesh behind the foam just to double check in side the air box glad i did as i found the original tool kit in there so much for the muppet that did the original PDI when it came out of the crate poor things had that cloging the air box for 16 years lol re tweaked the carbs to compnesate pulls 55/60 with my lard ass on it so cant be too bad passed the mot saturday morning with 1 minor fault ... slightly loose rear indicator nut

I bought some carbs of eBay for £25 The choke on those wouldn't stay out either so I used the one on the bike which did From what I could figure out if you take them off under the rubber grommet there looks to be a circlip it's probably that been worn that causes the issue

quite chuffed put the carb on last night and it ran sweet as a nut shocked that i didnt have to adjust anything will probably do a plug chop to make sure but touch wood after a couple of hours fettleing last night its about ready for the mot just want to re bleed the front as im not 100% happy with it as it is but its serviceable

i could like DR pepper ?

very true drewpy

i was thinking along the lines of using the 180 cylender and head at the moment its more of a half arsed i wonder if this would fit lol i dont really see why it wouldnt as i dont belive that engine had many revisions over the years as for more projects i really must get the RGV back in once piece lol