mcferreira100

I had the same thing with a non genuine set of mirrors for my XT500. Sometimes it seems the pirate manufacturers don`t realise Yamaha have opposite threads for the mirrors. So left side screwed right on..right side didn`t. I returned them and got another set.

Pic of the collection. Lots of work to do. Need to decide which DT must go. At least they all running fairly well.

Ok..thanks Airhead

You have me there..I haven`t noticed anything loose or falling off when removing the cover..wonder if the washer was there to begin with? Something I will keep in mind next time. Anything I should be aware of regarding replacing the friction plates and the spring?

Never knew the 350..not crazy about their shape. Think it only came after the my teenage years which is probably why I`m only really interested in the 77-81 era. The newer bikes don`t do much for me..I`ve seen the new XT250 classified as a girl`s bike somewhere (that would never have been said about the original). One thing that`s also got me thinking is the RD350LC. Might even consider swopping my GSR600 for one of those famous pocket rockets (fancy a 350 doing 200km/h). I remember the 2 bikes that really stand out from that time was XT500 and RD350.

Maybe its time I attempted my first clutch overhaul. Damn tired of taking that cover off..kickstart..etc..then praying I have no leaks. Yamaha would have done well to have a separate clutch cover on there for these adjustments.

So do you think replace clutch pack..or is there any more adjustments I can check?

Yes made sure it has about 10mm play at the lever. Its a brand new cable..replaced it so i could eliminate that.

Been searching for awhile but all of them are always too far away (not that there are many around). At last one came up in Cape Town so I snapped it up today as the guy had eight potential buyers. The bike was stored for 10 years. She is running fairly good and idling but has a miss under throttle as revs go past 5000. He had the carb done by someone but maybe there`s still an issue there. Dent on right side of tank and showing some rust inside. Electrics work ok. Front mudguard not original and rear one looking ready to fall apart. Plenty work on this one to get rid of rust and weathering. Anyway will strive to get her looking good within my budget. Happy to have pretty much complete collection together with the XT500 and 2xDT175`s.

Adjusted arm in line with the pip but it still seems to be slipping. I think new clutch plates required here.

How important is the return spring on the actuating arm? Mine is broken and loose so do I need to replace it?

OK I see the pip. Adjustment is a bit out towards forward of the bike. Strange thing is, the other bike with the good clutch is even more out in the other direction. I`ve checked out a video which shows the play on the gear lever also gives an indication of clutch adjustment. Lever on the bad clutch very loose and on the good clutch very tight..so seems that`s also telling me something.

Airhead did you see my PM?

My sentiments exactly.

I`m over the moon..fitted carb back on the bike..no more overfilling..bike runs lekka..even idles. Will see if it lasts.

Didnt ask him but I will expect as this is a carb specialist he would have used something that will work.

Took the carb to a specialist..after some blowing and sucking tests he found the brass tube in the pic to have a leak somewhere...no wonder bowl overfilling. He put some epoxy on it and assures me there`s my problem cured. I`ll be sure when I test it on the bike. WIll make sure epoxy sets first.

Yep..can only go in one way really..wrong way round does not look right.

Set float height to 24mm..carb overfills..set to 25mm..carb gets no fuel. Surely this new float valve is faulty.

This carb still chucking fuel out overflow. New float valve installed and no change. Fiddled with tang to adjust floats..got overfilling stopped, but then bike was getting no fuel and would not start. Moved tang back a touch then bike starts but fuel coming out overflow again. Took carb to a friend of mine who suggested the float valve from Yambits is faulty. The pin on the needle sems to have too much tension on it so floats won`t be able to close it. Can this be?..when if i bend the tang way down the fuel is stopped completely. I even tried putting the old float valve back in but still overfills. Any suggestions? Should I fiddle the tang more with new float valve installed? If its set to spec though (21mm), it persists in overfilling.

That would explain it. Will check the bulbs.

It worked but the light looked dull. Swopped a tail bulb from my XT (left wiring as is) and now its perfect. So can it be bulbs causing these issues?

Tail light was working all along then yesterday suddenly nothing..brake light still worked. Swore a bit as I wanted to get the bike MOT`d today. Changed the bulb and still same story. Stripped off bracket to check wiring and everything looked ok. Here`s the kicker..so swopped the 3 wires around going into tail light bracket and now it works. I`m confused??? Anyway it got the bike thru the test and she`s 100% road legal.

Actually I did nothing to it. Just with some riding around the problem disappeared.

Yeah I agree, especially 2strokes are not easy to tune and I don`t have enough experience..I should stick to 4stroke bikes. I tried airhead`s test spraying Q20 on the crank seal on the magneto side but don`t seem to note much difference...but the idling is so erratic its difficult to tell. Would both seals need to be changed or can just the magneto side be done?