mcferreira100

Suppose I`m used to VTR1000 and GSR600 power..they come up just by redlining in 1st. No shifting weight or pulling on handlebars. Haven`t tried rolling off and opening throttle yet.

Just want to do around a 200km cruise now and then for the day. I was also wondering about the Goldwing..also CBX1000 or CB750F. I like them but none have kickstarts..so need to go older models.

I need a long distance runner in the collection as I don`t think the RD350 is right for that job. I prefer all my bikes having kickstarts as they stand quite a bit (try ride different one every day). Prefer to go for a Honda like CB550 or 750 four. Any suggestions what could make a comfortable and reliable long distance four stroke classic cruiser?

After rebuilding my stock standard Elsie I was a little disappointed it just won`t power wheelie thru the powerband no matter how much I ring its neck. Not comfortable with it as I prefer doing power wheelies (find them easier to control), but thought I would try slip the clutch in first to see what happens. WHOAAA..must say it surprized me how quick she reared up. Need sum more practice...

Was getting really bad..showing 3000rpm at 60mph so opened it up.The bracket the cable screws into was completely loose and spinning around..amazing it worked at all..something inside must be broken. So made up a bracket on the outside to keep things in place. Working ok now.

Had similar experience on my GPZ550 back in 81. Corner tightened up horribly on me..this in the middle of the night and with coupla pints in me. There was pavements both sides and I actually mounted the pavement with the bike still at an angle. Must have been at just the right angle as the front wheel stayed in line and I made it over. Result was two bent rims and a mild heart failure. Learnt a lesson that nite..it never happened again.

Ok finally got round to some investigation here..found one connection off by the tailight which got them working. But with indicators I fitted another flasher which has got them sorta working..although bulbs very dim and they not flashing..just staying on. So I gather bad earth somewhere?

Cant afford to ride it too much..just too damn heavy on juice and 2stroke. This bike for people with jobs. Also used to ride crap out of my MR50 but I have a lot of money in this bike and I don`t know them...so maybe a little paranoid bout it. No worries guys..not fiddling anything on it anymore. Just need to finish painting tank etc.

Also the reason I`m concerned is with running it in and not knowing what the revs are doing I`ve probably been redlining it without knowing it.

Thanks for that DT50..why u got no comment on how the plug looks on my other thread? (surely u happy I finally did a plug chop)

Been meaning to sort out the rear light and no indicators working. Neutral light and headlight working fine so I`m wondering about flasher unit for indicators and the loom to tailight looks dodgy (hanging under rear mudguard perilously close to the tyre. Any ideas how to go about sorting it out..electrics not my cup of tea.

So asked couple of people with Elsies now who now really have me thinking my rev counter running 1000-1500 rpm too slow. Seen this fix on the aircooled RD site. Will get better the more you use it ,yes uses a magnet no damage will result in its use what happens is grease sticks between the bell and the rotor, normally happens when they have been left upside down for long periods. Soak a bit of rag with white spirit and stuff it up a pilot light hole and leave it for a few days, re soaking it when required. The vapour softens the grease, it worked on one of mine.

Ok back to 3rd notch on throttle needles and I would say its pretty close to best according to DT`s pic.

Done 670km on new engine so far..so listening to Cynic..I would say its pretty much run in. Ran it around 6000rpm (not sure with this rev counter)for few km and switched off. Checked with another LC owner who has same size sprockets..he runs at 5500rpm when I`m at 4000 at 60mph...weird. Thanks for this pic DirtyDT. Looking at this chart looks almost oil fouled (no.2)..or maybe cold & rich (no.7)..but far from best. Will try middle notch on needle and check again.

Thought I would try something and set throttle needle 1clip up from bottom..ie:rich. This is how how plug looks..too much on the rich side..would think I must go back to middle clip. Also notice plug caps sitting pretty loose on the plugs. Almost no force needed to pull them off.

Will do the plug chop as per Dirty DT`s version..if it ever stops raining here.

Would a standard bike rev like that though..you not maybe referring to one with modified pistons, jetting, exhausts, porting and so on?

Some pretty good gymnastics here. http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/this-is-the-luckiest-biker-youll-see-today-2014-08-20

Makes sense as it seems to run out of puff after 7000..which if rev counter is slow..would mean its actually at 8000. Would hate to change needle setting back to middle setting as the bike is running a lot better. As I said the 3500rpm flat spot is all but gone..and I ride around that rev range most of the time in traffic.

Where`s the rest of this?..would really like to see how this bike came out.

At 62mph its running 4000rpm in 6th gear.

Clip is on 2nd notch from the top..ie: leaner mix. Yea 4th slot is running pretty rich. Must say I don`t intend to go racing or anything like that and I tend to ride like an old man (this bike not actually suited to my riding style). Just ringing its neck now and then during run in and thereafter just to clear its throat. I would like to know as I`ve been told the rev counter is slow due to standing so long..could anyone with and RD let me know what revs their bikes are doing at say 62mph? Will give me an idea what this rev counter is doing. Could be thinking I`m at 7000rpm when I`m actually at 8000 (I could have been in the red already without knowing it).

Well an interesting day with highs and lows. Set the throttle needles one notch up for leaner mix. Started bike and it was making weird sucking noise and backfiring out one exhaust (almost sounded like something wrong with reed on one side). Took it slowly down the road but noise persisted. Wondered if I put slide in wrong (I`ve heard this can happen). Checked slide was ok but then noticed pipe between carbs was off..my bad. Problem sorted. The flat spot is better on the new needle setting. I set airscrews back to 1.5 turns out straight after reassembly and went another 1/4 turn out after a run. Flat spot is virtually gone. I do notice though that after 7000rpm it seems to bog down a little when I would think it should pull even stronger.

I googled this procedure to do a plug chop. 1. Get new spark plug(s), but don't put them in yet. 2. Warm up motor to operating temp on old plugs. 3. Install new plugs. 4. Accelerate through all gears to top gear with throttle pinned. 5. When you hit the top of the top gear, hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch. 6. Remove the spark plug(s) and ride home on the old plug(s). 7. Hold the new plug in a vise and use a hacksaw to cut the threads away from the center electrode. 8. You should see a brown 2mm "smoke ring" at the base of the white center electrode if the main jets are dialed in perfect. 9. if the smoke ring is darker than chocolate brown or taller than 2mm, you're rich on the mains, but if it revs clean to full throttle, you can leave it there and be on the rich side. 10. If the smoke ring is smaller than 2mm or lighter than chocolate brown, you're lean on the mains, go up a size and try again.

Jeez.. relax DT50..u having bad day or what? If u don`t feel like commenting anymore just ignore the post. For your information I havent actually fiddled with anything except that airscrew..done 500km now and it hasn't blown up yet(if these bikes will always have a 3500rpm flat spot then its running fine..not going to cut perfectly good plugs to pieces). Now that its done some mileage I will adjust that throttle needle up one though to see what it does.