mcferreira100

B8ES

While I ponder what to do with my engine woes I`ll continue stripping. Lower swingarm pivot to some heavy coaxing to get out. Wasn't much pivoting going on here. One brake spring broken..just fell out which explains the noises I heard when spinning rear wheel.

Bike was stolen and recovered so who knows what the buggers got up to. She was running too lean looking at the plug.

Would like to get some more advice here. Piston melted a hole and some bits went in the crankcase. Was advised I should be able to get away without splitting the engine..just put in engine cleaner turning the crank then turn engine upside down. Repeat process until rotation is smooth. Then use a hair dryer to dry out crankcase. Also the cylinder already bored out 2mm oversize. Luckily it still looks fairly ok so been advised to go over it with some water paper. Apparantly even a light hone could ruin it.

Damn..bolt broke off when removing reeds Spotted the thrust washer I was warned against can fall into casing 3 bikes ago. Fell out this time.

Barrel off..looks like quite bit of crap in there. Have a feeling this engine should be split and cleaned properly.

Been looking for a classic four stroke long distance runner for awhile now. Keen on the 750four as it is famed for pretty much being the very first superbike. Want something with a kickstart for those days when the battery decided to take the day off. Also like this as it has electronic ignition and better brakes..and I don`t really want something with ignition points that wear out. This one come up for sale here for around 1350pounds. Opinions on this bike?

Oh need to get barrel off but don`t have but my sockets too big to get in there.

Wish for some minus temps sometimes..averaging 28-30C here. Well head is off and quite obvious whats happened here (this guy mentioned he had cheap piston installed recently). Question is where are all the melted bits gone..out exhaust or into crankcase. Lots of melted bits lying around in exhaust port and in some in combustion chamber. Gaskets still looking fairly good. I`m told gravity will have taken over after compression loss and bits will probably have ended up in crankcase. It was suggested to fill crankcase with fuel and turn engine upside down to get it out. Some scoring visible on bore..can this be honed out?

Progress so far..pretty much stripped. Got engine out today..will remove head and barrel tomorrow to see what lurks underneath.

Ive noticed my RD350 when stood few days when I start it only runs on one cylinder briefly..then the other cyl starts backfiring and eventually runs. I have previously had a problem with the bike cutting out on uphill run until I cleaned the fuel cap of a lot of crap..then it was ok. I still suspect fuel cap as it closes very tight..this afterrelining the tank. So tried today after she stood awhile to start it with the cap off. Started better on both cylinders. So I suspect the cap too tight causing suction/breather problems into carbs (funny enough the first carb under the tank is the problem child). The cap also makes a significant gas release noise after a ride. Can it be the fuel cap?

Oh and frame and engine numbers match. Unlike the RD unfortunately. So can I take it this was the first monoshock?

Nice outside but gets too damn hot in summer..that workshop like an oven. Yep you`re right..I neglected to mention I was told this bike came from Germany. The very first registration number on the documents is German. Any idea what model this is Airhead..B..D..E..A. What`s the nomenclature behind the 175?

Seat has been recovered.

The bike was stolen awhile ago and recovered. Some damage to front mudguard. Looks like I need a lever again. Rear sprocket looks a bit dodgy..think will have to replace. Tank looks very nice inside..might not even do inline fuel filter here. Although cap has no breather pipe..these bikes did have breathers on the fuel cap I think. Coupla pics of the work area for Airhead`s benefit. Some road bike rear brake lever on here. Headlight in good shape. Rear tyre is knackered. Front looks OK. Weird taillight and indicator bracket..was this standard? Oil feed pipe to carb looks very thin..and its in two parts. Sidestand bent. Some extra bits I got with the bike. Dunno what bike this exhaust is off. Some other bits including new sidecover rubbers, mirrors, levers and a cylinder gasket.

So its arrived..will start stripping next week. I always seem to end up with knackered sidestands..she almost wants to fall over and sidestand springs back up soon as weight is off. Had the same with the RD. Scored a GIVI storage unit with this bike. Think I will fit it to the XL185 as that goes to shops mostly. Clocks still look great for their age..and I`m told they work. Tripmeter action is fine. Tank and sidecovers have been resprayed with new decals. One job I don`t have to worry about.

Think you`ve seen pics of my work area on other restorations. Will post sum more pics of the bike now that its here. Pretty cool to own a 78..79..and 80 model. What is this though..175D or E or something else?

Call me crazy but my 3rd DT is on the way...arrives tomorrow. Has no compression. Will see what happening once motor is out.

Bought it..its arriving tmorow. Got him down to ZAR6700..or around 670 dollars. It has absolutely no compression..just rest foot on kickstart and down it goes. Maybe both rings broken. WIll have to see.

Does look good..and I think its one of the best looking DT`s in the range with the shorter front mudguard and tank design..prefer this model to the 80 models. Also the older..the better for investment.

Thought so as my 79 has the newer clocks. Uh..its ZAR9500 which works out to 951 Can dollars. But I`m sure I can get him down a bit.

Meant to say its advertised as an 81 model, but I think its closer to around 78. All electrics working..original keys..just needs new rings..or so the ad says.

Having a look tomorrow at one of the older DT`s..not sure yet what year this is but its got the old style clocks. Actually really like the styling on this one. Didn`t really want another DT as I have 2 already, but cant pass up an oldie like this.

Always wondered after I was told one should always idle a 2stroke carb dry to prevent gunging up the float valve and jets, unless its used often. If fuel is left in there surely it keeps everything lubricated, but once dry that is when float valves etc. start becoming stuck? Same question for 4strokes. Would like to hear opinions on this.

I was thinking to change sprocket sizes will probably be a good idea..not too interested in high top end.