mickwill1978

is there any pics or does anyone know where the valve should be set for all round power,mine is fully open if I take off the exhaust and look up the exhaust port or feel the valve is flush.is this correct because I am only really benefitting from the valve when the rpm,s hit 6,to 7 thousand rpm,s I would like more bottom end I am now running standard rear sprocket and a 15 tooth on the front for a bit more grunt on bottom end but the valve still dosent want to play till after 6 thousand rpm,ime assuming its in the wrong position,any help much appreciated cheers mick,i also binned it 2 weeks since 2 broken ribs broken finger and a broken collar bone and knocked my shoulder outa place oops,the bike suffered nothing more than popping the fork seals,stong bikes bruised ego lol.also I cannot get my hand round this boost bottle it wont run with it on it performs terrible and coughs and splutters

thanks calum122,the reed switch behind the clocks was already taped up and moved away from the clocks it red lines so am sure its not that may have to have the valve back out and readjust its in the fully open position I cant see or feel any of the valve if I look up the exhaust port but I have read this only gives power on high revs.this in my case seems true my valve dosent come in till about 6 to 7 thousand rpm

sorry for the late response yes it was allready clean ken.seems to be electrical I can take the valve cover off and watch the pulleys work once I ride it with the bike being under load and give it a handful the valve stops working.i can stop turn off ignition turn it straight back on the valve performs its cycle and then it works again.its now doing this all the time,cheers

cheers ken had the valve out,clean as a whistle.

hi guys ime having similar problems it seems electrical after a an handfull off revs the bikes valve stops working i pull up turn of ignition listen to the valve di]o its cycle fire her back up and off she goes again,when i set the valve i took off the exhaust and set it to fully open i.e turned on ignition let the valve do its cycle looked up the port and could see the valve was in its fully open position.is this right?any help would be much appreciated as theres no power till 6000 rpm then wallop off she goes cheers mick

yes thats the one cheers ken apparently they tape them up or bung them and reatach it,having problems with valve now its as if when the bike revs past a certain rpm it kills the valve.i have to stop turn off ignition restart it hey presto works again,its as if valves sticking arghhhhh.

cheers ken still seem to be having bother with the expansion chamber that comes off the side of the airbox,from what ive read on here it seems like u tape it up i.e block it then shove it back on to the rubber tube off the airbox,ive done this and it runs terrible,may try it again and adjust the air screw cheers,deffo back to standard gearing saturday.when i detatch the expansion chamber i have to have the air screw fully out for it to run sweet so maybe blocking the chamber up and reatatching i may have to wind the air screw allway back in

cheers airhead,think i,ll just try the gearing bit more bottom end and a k&n filter as its still running standard airbox

also i have found some info about the cdi unit restricting the valve,ime just printing it out it involves removing and cutting into an earthing a wire ime assumeing this is what this german thread floating about is regarding will try n upload the pic and details later ime certainly going to try it this weekend with the original gearing back on all being well,cheers mick

reed switch had been removed allready just taped up and tucked away beside the clocks,power valve is now fully open checked this by turning on ignition and watching it do its cycle and it sets fully open,a mechanic friend of mine adjusted this to fully open ,did this with exhaust off and looking up port.full dep 240 main jet seems to run better with the expansion chamber off that comes off the side of the airbox,ive been told to tape this up and re atatch it as its some sort of resctrictor,done that and it still runs better with it off.1st to 4th it is quite quick but dies as i said in 5th and 6th.a few of you got it in one its had a 520 chain sprocket conversion.phoned a yam dealers this morning standard front sprocket should have 16 teeth,and rear 57 teeth.my rear has 55 teeth and not sure on the front obviously its been upgeared hence struggling in higher gears.also its a much heavier chain standard pitch is 428.ime still sure theres more to be had not sure about this airbox expansion chamber and ive read somewhere on here theres a peice of rubber on the carb that can be cut bigger,happy riding mick

still cant find this reed switch no idea what colour it is or anything,thats all it can be now as it does 70mph in 4th gear then dies in 5th and 6th cheers,any help would be greatley appreciated ive looked on all the links and cant find out what colour this wire is and wether i cut it or move it,cheers

hi mines an 03 dtr 125 valve is fully open upjetted n carb set up,anyone know what this rees switch wire looks like colour etc as from 1st to 4th its mental 70 mph in 4th gear and then 5th and 6th it drops outa valve and dies so i think it could be this ilustrious wire ,any help much appreciated cheers

anyone know what this wire behind the clocks looks like or what colour it is mines an 03 it has a full dep just had exhaust off and looked up the port turned on ignition and can see about ten mill of the valve as it sets so am sure it could be opened a tad more.the valve seems to want to kick in around 7000rpm but then just coughs and splutters tried everything its a nightmare ,cheers

cheers everyone much appreciated

cheers