nobbie1517

thanks for that i followed the link to the trailtech temp module. nice. its a little more compact than my K type on a copper ring plugged into a fluke meter strapped to the petrol tank i have been comparing my carb to one i ve just had delivered. advertised as a new mikuni £70 without the box. although the casting is good quality i fear it is a fakini ( no sh1t sherlock) but it does have a small tang on the floats that sits against one of the posts to restrict the distance the floats can drop drown mine doesnt. it looks like it may have had, so with carb bowl off and turned the right way up i can lower the floats enough that when you push them back it jams the float needle in the open position and i dont have the lower them too far. whether or not they would ever get to the postion in reality i dont know but im going to see if i can pop them into the mikuni, to sort the flooding. may be mine is intermitently jaming after a spell at high speed then freeing itself etc etc etc. thinking about i have on occations come to traffic lights and the idle has sat quite high and not settled back, but get to the next set and its ok i had tried to spray for leaks which made no difference, and it is a definate on/off type of fault if you know what i mean i,m sorry not to have any input on your problem, but as you can see i cant even sort my own out

i checked plug and although nice and blue its not as fat as id have thought, the plug is a NGK Iridium BR8EIX with a tiny electrode so ive bought a couple of NGK B8ES in case i have to do a plug chop airhead- you mentioned yours was overheating. are you going off the plug colour or are you measuring cyclinder head temp i have have a k type thermocouple and display (havnt used it yet ) just to help with setting up but i cant find any info on what temps to expect do you have any ideas

ha. lineker and jones.....excelent i think my bike at the time beinging would be fred davis and steve davis, different eras, both snooker players, both not so interesting.....(a little unfair i like steve realy) yes i fitted a new o ring under the coller (even bought a spare at that price. just in case i nipped it but all went together smoothly but that was only after seeing it on this forum. cos i had missed it on the drawings when i was ordering all the new seals and bearings etc the crank double lip seals were fitted with the cases warm and the way round that ty trails website suggests for those seals i have had delivered a couple of new bowl gaskets ( the other new one! is a little tired now. so this afternoon i will remove the carb and try to see whats happening with the float height and needle

what i should have said is that all my setting up was done with the weak float plunger allowing the level too high and the pilot mixture to be too rich for starting and slow running (but i dont know what difference a few mm of height would make)but as you say the tolerance is +/- 1.5mm anyway i now have the stiffer plunger in and even though the float height measures the same.the physical height applied by the petrol will be less if the level is lower in the pilot jet will that mean that my air screw settings will now be all wrong ( cos that was set to higher level allowed by the weak plunger) ah knackers what chance do you all stand .im confusing myself now

yes airhead sorry you beat my reply i have been re reading the post. im a little rusty on carb setup now adays too many EFI bikes i think

yes engine was totally stripped. all new seals and bearings.cylinder was in good shape. measured all the way down, but i put new piston and rings and small end in just cause it was down that far its got the standard pilot in 2.5 or 25 some thing like that sorry i cant remember , but the numbers matched what was in the haynes book when i checked the air scew- i followed the setup proceedure in mikuni pdf down load but some thing didnt tally with what it said i should see. i could turn the screw in to the point of stalling the engine but i could wind it almost all the way out past the point of where the bike seemed to run its best with little change to the sound of the engine but this may have been done with the fuel level too high. if that has any effect

I’m checking the height as per owner’s manual pictures Measuring from the gasket face top the top of the float whilst the tang is just touching the float valve (but not depressing it) There was a noticeable difference in the springiness between the little plunger on the old float jet (next to no resistance) and the new float jet (very stiff indeed) Don’t now how critical that is. I suppose it just acts like a little shock absorber Compression is good and seals are new so hopefully not leaking but I haven’t checked I will try without the air filter first for the starting issue and then look at the clip position for higher throttle opening Cynic re. Airhead has a 79. Minevis a year later and breathes a lot easier..heh heh....(read quicker ahem) What are the difference between the 79 and 80 models as far as engines go. Or shouldn’t I ask Thanks for the input

A little help please I have 1979 dt175 with a giannelli front and tail pipe Does anyone know if there should be any carb changes (pilot, needle, main jets etc) Or any air box mods. Mine came with standard jets and needle position (main jet I think 140 my Haynes doesn’t quote a size) but the air box had been drilled with six 12mm(ish) holes. The trouble I have is in starting It will start with no choke but only after kicking it enough times to shatter yer kidneys And that’s even in the cold weather we are having now, any hint of choke and the engine just dies All jets and holes are clean the issue I have it tends to overflow petrol when on the side stand so I turn the petcock off all the time now If the level is too high up into the bowel and pilot jet after flooding will that make it difficult to start. I just don’t know I am now on a new float seat and needle, and the side stand has been straighten back to its original shape so the bike isn’t leaning at any stupid angle and the float heights checked time and time again. Just what am I doing wrong? It also tends to run a little rough at lower throttle settings and seems to even out at about ½ throttle opening Sorry but I don’t know if these are separate issues or all interlinked

Cynic is right it would be way to close for mud plugging even if the wheel was at the end of the swinging arm, and there is very little side clearance As said eariler I fitted the AC10s to combat all the snow that was forcast and living off the beaten track in " the last of the summer wine county" they served me well. All be it for a short period Riding down the hills I passed three men with flat caps in a bath on wheels several times

Yes it did I thought I may have had to move the wheel further down the swinging arm (I’m on a new STD length chain so the wheel is as close into the arm as it will ever be) but I didn’t have to There was I slight rubbing I could hear on the chain guard when I spun the wheel. It was too dark at the time to see where. So I removed it Don’t like running without the guard, but days are getting lighter now so I will pop it back on and see if a little trimming of the guard will sort it

Yes I was trying to build a spare pair of wheels to fit the tires that came with the bike (still lots of tread) I had fitted Mich AC10s to the original wheels for all the to cope with the treacherous snow .!!!!! That lasted all of three days Couldn’t be bothered to swap back, so decided on a spare set wheels My option is ring central wheels for a quote for the STD 1.85 rim Use the 4.00 tyre and then back to STD 3.50 Like an old geezer who knew his onions once said why bother over tyring a bike just run as the manufacturer designed it Thanks for the help

It’s probably off by now But had the same prob with mine found that boiling water caused the heat to soak thro too much For particular stubborn bearings At work we use oxy/acet to heat up bearings (Not on motorcycles). Its flame produces a fast localized heat and we freeze the shafts down quickly So at home a quick high heat on the bearing race with a plumbers propane torch and straight away a quick spray on the shaft and behind the bearing as best as I could with plumbers freeze spray with a straw on the nozzle for better direction and off it popped (ish) with a little preload from some small electricians screwdrivers tapped in Bearing in mind (no pun intended) my crank was out of the case I already had a plumber’s torch and freezer spray can If you haven’t it would have cost more than a tenner to buy anyway But it’s just a thought for others that maybe stuck, and have these things in the shed

thanks busyeddie i should bloody well know all this but trying to rush and get things done i was only looking at the relationship between tyre and rim and not spoke length and hole angles due to drums etc and yer right Cynic there isnt a deal of room down there to start with. Another little nugget i over looked in my haste i will cancel my order. sit back have a brew and take my time. one option may be central wheel builders. i believe they can drill to suit but at what price i dont know thanks again chaps

Thanks for the welcome everybody and I am glad my photo wasn’t wasted (dammed good representation of Britain’s dental health care in the early days) I do actually resemble him If it’s not too presumptuous I have posted a question in the workshop section If anyone has any suggestions. It would be very much appreciated

Hello This is my first post on the forum so I apologise if it gets a little long winded. I recently bought a spare pair of wheels for the DT. The rims and spokes were shot, but the price was worth it just for the hubs I have paid for sm pro rims in black but they have told me they have stopped making the rear 18x1.85 and now only supply the 18x 2.15. I could cancel the order and buy else where but if the 2.15 is ok i will go with that one.(money and time is getting a little tight and the sm pro is a good price) My bike is a 1979 reg with a round tube swinging arm and has a 4.00x18 cats paw tyre fitted to a 18x1.85 rim and is alright for clearance Does anyone know if I would encounter any problems fitting the wider 2.15 rim but still with the 4.00 wide tyre I have searched for preferred rim sizes for a 4.00 tyre but I tend to get bogged down I can go one size either side of the tyre manufactures preferred rim size without altering the tyre profile too much for the type of use I require but its the clearance on the DT I’m unsure of Hope some one can help Cheers Nobbie

Yes I had a dung beetle, maggot, but I had just passed my test and a “friend “!!!! Sold it to me I hit the side of a van on my 3rd outing quite severely, but unfortunately the insurance repaired it and I had to ride it a little longer the dt is up and running ( wish I had taken more pics now ) but is looking a little worse after all the snow and salt, but got it to use, so there you go I don’t think it is running quite right though so I maybe posting a few questions on the other part of the forum Hopefully some one may help thanks for the welcome

Hello everyone After buying a 1979 dt175 on eBay to use for winter I found myself getting a little carried away with it. Instead of the usual new bits to make it road worthy. I have spent (and am still spending) a deal of time and money on a full nut and bolt rebuild frame powder coated, engine rebuild (except big end)etc,etc,etc, whilst trying to convince my wife that bikes really are cheap to run Needless to say I have gleaned a great deal of info from this forum. There are some pretty knowledgeable guys out there especially in the dt175 area So hopefully by registering I may be of some assistance to some one else. Oh and be able to post my own questions I have been riding bikes for over 34 years with a brief 4 year bash in clubman’s road racing (expensive but good fun) Previous bikes include TS125, TS185ER, CX500, Z1100R1 Eddie lawson rep, GSX1100, RG250mk3, RGV250, and YZF750R, KLX250S and I have loved them all including the CX Current bikes are a husaberg FX450 road legal, super moto wheels but still using motocross engine map (really good fun) and the DT175 (getting there) Thanks for your time