Torkorp

That looks like good old fashioned fun. Informal trail riding with friends.

Hello. You should 1: clean your bike. 2: buy this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DT125LC-1982-87-Workshop-Motorcycle-Manuals/dp/1850104174/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1362776693&sr=8-11 Everything solved:) It looks like a LC MK1 from the swing arm, might be a MK2. Take a look in projects. And for the gauges, I used some very fine abrasive paper, then spray painted with clear coat. Looks fine.

A test drive on a field with my oldest son. Its about 0 degrees celsius and the engine runs way too lean with original 80 main jet. I have now changed to 90 jet and shes almost spot on.

Hm. Problem is suddenly gone before I got to measuring the coil. Guess I just have to wait and see if it happens again. It might be a loose connection after all then.

I'll check that out tomorrow. Thanks.

Let me make clear that I don't regard the 125 LC as a classic - yet. But the electrical system is 6V, and that counts for some classicness or what? The thing is: headlights work OK when I start the engine cold, and it shines like a 6V star at idle and during short revving the first 2 minutes. But then it goes black hole:(. This has happened for four days, and the bulbs and connections are fine. I have not began serious troubleshooting yet, but I suspect It might have something to do with the regulator. Maybe someone has had a similar issue with their 6Vs and knows where I should begin?

Finished!

Brakes adjusted, new chain tensioner block fitted. Fuel tank and plastics mounted. I use new nuts and bolt everywhere. I`m not finished with the seat yeat. I bought a seat cover from ebay, but I don`t have strong enough staple tools to attach the cover to the seat frame.

Adjusted and bleeded the oil pump. It was disengaged by the former owner, but I couldn't find anything wrong with it when I had the engine apart. After adjusting the stroke and fitting a clear oil line, everything works fine. It pumps oil in small increments, just as it should.

Front end mounted. I also finished the wiring and after a short hour of troubleshooting, all lights and even the horn seems to work OK. Changed front brake light switch and fitted a new ignition switch.

Finished the swing arm today. I used a nut and bolt to fit the new vinyl bushings. The bushings from the MX wasn`t quite long enough, so I split a third bushing to fit. I made sure that the grease nipples didn`t get closed off. The result: Swing arm ready to mount: And fit:

Finished the front forks today. All parts are thoroughly dismantled and cleaned. Oil and dust seals are renewed, and 304cc of 15W fork fluid is added to each fork.

Yes, thanks - It was the DT175/125MX that you pointed out I got the measures of. I should have made that clear. The 22 euro was for one collar( sleeve) and I came better off with a full kit including both bushings, spacers and dirt seals from the other vendor. The other, Danish company you linked to was very helpful, but couldn't provide the part.

A short update: New brake shoes, tacho cable, fork dust seals and oil seals arrived today. For the swing arm: Yamaha Norway claims 170GBP for sleeves and bushings. (!) But Dave at Yambits measured up a cheapish DT125MX kit for me, and I should just have to cut the sleeve in 2 parts to make it fit. Kit is ordered. Maybe some of you fine folks can suggest the best oil weight for the front fork? The Haynes manual says that 10W-30 engine oil is the preferred OEM oil quality, but points out that single grade fork oils with different weight can be used for personal adjustment. 30 years of added experience since the Haynes manual was written might point me in the direction of which oil grade to choose for best performance. Preferred use is 70% trail and 30% road. Driver weight 85 kg. I'm open for all suggestions.

Fuel Tank finished. Aerosol spray paint+ clear coating. White Vinyl on the sides and top of the tank, as it it more resistant against schratches. New battery and gearlever. All wires lubricated.

The pivot bolt runs through two sleeves that are surronded by vinyl bushes in the swing arm. Between the two swing arm sleeves, the bolt goes through a smaller diameter bushing in the engine. The length of the two sleeves is 69 mm, outer diameter 17 mm, inner diameter 12 mm.

OK. So wrapping a 2 dimensional plane over a 3 dimensional fuel tank makes absolutely no sense . The only way I managed to get a smooth surface was through an improvized Mercator projection. Cylindrical with lots of cliffs and valleys. I give up!! Spray paint is next. That said: all the plastics looks very good though. I'll cut some black vinyl for the black parts of the side cover. Small curved areas is very manageable for an amateur, so a wrapping expert would probably fix a fuel tank wrapping too. Cleaned all electrical contacs and changed some corroded ones. Fitted new handlebars and the repainted and straightened exhaust. I also change all bolts with new flat head hexbolts. I sent a mail too the Danish company about the swing arm bushings and sleeves. Thanks, Airhead. The sleeves are 17.5 mm diameter. Do anyone know if this is the same size as the older DTs? In that case, I could buy a kit and split the long sleeve into 2 shorter ones.

Wrapped the plastics with vinyl today. I used 3M 1080 series White glossy quality. Learned how to do it by watching some youtube videos - the trick is to use a hair dryer when stretching the vinyl over, and work in small increments. I´m rather satisfied with the result, will try the fuel tank tomorrow. I really can`t find a swing arm repair kit for the early LC. All I´ve found so far is the bushings, but I need the sleeves too - the old ones are too rusty for my taste. If anyone has suggestions for where to look, I appreciate it.

Thanks . Yes it is a remarkably good bike for restoring. It has probably never been used as a field bike, maybe just a commuter.

Fuel tank straightened out and primed. I think I`ll try to wrap it with 3M 1080 white gloss instead of spraying it. Thats the plan for all the plastics anyway. It`s a white and red DT by the way. Rear frame almost ready. The bushings and slides has to be changed - it might be a challenge to find a swing arm repair kit for the DT LC MK1. So far I´ve just found for the more vintage DTs. Theres a new handle bar there - the old one was bent badly.

There is no use trying to source parts for old bikes in Norway. Way too small market. I use ebay.co.uk as my main source when it comes to Yamaha two strokes, with Germany as a good number two. I have two favorite sellers that usually has what is needed. The over all costs in Norway is so high that even when shipping and the occasional taxes are paid, the prices are pretty good. Here is the engine back in the frame. Frame is sanded and painted. There was just a few spots of corrosion easily primed. No welding necessary.

Hi. I'm new to this forum, and would like to share ( and recieve:) ) some experience while restoring an old DT 125. Interesting enough; more and more of the cool bikes and cars from my youth, seem to have become vintage almost overnight. In january I found a 1983 DT 125 LC with most parts still in place, and decided to start what I call a 75% restore. That means get everything in good workin order, change everything thats worn out and get a decent, not showroom finish. Engine had low compression, so I did a Nr. 2 overbore, changed piston and tok the engine apart for examination. Pretty much everything had acceptable tolerances ( that puzzled me), but I changed the main bearings and all gaskets/ seals. So far, all main frame parts has been removed, and I've gathered some new parts from ebay.

Hi everyone. This is my first post, so I'd just stop by and introduce myself. Aged 45, married, three kids, and motorcycles as one of my hobbies since childhood. I've just started a 75% restoration of a DT 125 LC MK1, and would like to ask for some advice around some parts that I just cant find. I'll put up some pictures, and maybe a build thread after some initial lurking around. So - I'm off to the search button, and looking for relevant posts.