Torkorp

That looks like good old fashioned fun. Informal trail riding with friends.

Hello. You should 1: clean your bike. 2: buy this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DT125LC-1982-87-Workshop-Motorcycle-Manuals/dp/1850104174/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1362776693&sr=8-11 Everything solved:) It looks like a LC MK1 from the swing arm, might be a MK2. Take a look in projects. And for the gauges, I used some very fine abrasive paper, then spray painted with clear coat. Looks fine.

A test drive on a field with my oldest son. Its about 0 degrees celsius and the engine runs way too lean with original 80 main jet. I have now changed to 90 jet and shes almost spot on.

Hm. Problem is suddenly gone before I got to measuring the coil. Guess I just have to wait and see if it happens again. It might be a loose connection after all then.

I'll check that out tomorrow. Thanks.

Let me make clear that I don't regard the 125 LC as a classic - yet. But the electrical system is 6V, and that counts for some classicness or what? The thing is: headlights work OK when I start the engine cold, and it shines like a 6V star at idle and during short revving the first 2 minutes. But then it goes black hole:(. This has happened for four days, and the bulbs and connections are fine. I have not began serious troubleshooting yet, but I suspect It might have something to do with the regulator. Maybe someone has had a similar issue with their 6Vs and knows where I should begin?

Finished!

Brakes adjusted, new chain tensioner block fitted. Fuel tank and plastics mounted. I use new nuts and bolt everywhere. I`m not finished with the seat yeat. I bought a seat cover from ebay, but I don`t have strong enough staple tools to attach the cover to the seat frame.

Adjusted and bleeded the oil pump. It was disengaged by the former owner, but I couldn't find anything wrong with it when I had the engine apart. After adjusting the stroke and fitting a clear oil line, everything works fine. It pumps oil in small increments, just as it should.

Front end mounted. I also finished the wiring and after a short hour of troubleshooting, all lights and even the horn seems to work OK. Changed front brake light switch and fitted a new ignition switch.

Finished the swing arm today. I used a nut and bolt to fit the new vinyl bushings. The bushings from the MX wasn`t quite long enough, so I split a third bushing to fit. I made sure that the grease nipples didn`t get closed off. The result: Swing arm ready to mount: And fit:

Finished the front forks today. All parts are thoroughly dismantled and cleaned. Oil and dust seals are renewed, and 304cc of 15W fork fluid is added to each fork.

Yes, thanks - It was the DT175/125MX that you pointed out I got the measures of. I should have made that clear. The 22 euro was for one collar( sleeve) and I came better off with a full kit including both bushings, spacers and dirt seals from the other vendor. The other, Danish company you linked to was very helpful, but couldn't provide the part.

A short update: New brake shoes, tacho cable, fork dust seals and oil seals arrived today. For the swing arm: Yamaha Norway claims 170GBP for sleeves and bushings. (!) But Dave at Yambits measured up a cheapish DT125MX kit for me, and I should just have to cut the sleeve in 2 parts to make it fit. Kit is ordered. Maybe some of you fine folks can suggest the best oil weight for the front fork? The Haynes manual says that 10W-30 engine oil is the preferred OEM oil quality, but points out that single grade fork oils with different weight can be used for personal adjustment. 30 years of added experience since the Haynes manual was written might point me in the direction of which oil grade to choose for best performance. Preferred use is 70% trail and 30% road. Driver weight 85 kg. I'm open for all suggestions.