finnerz89

Have you tried starting it with the fuel cap open?

Don't give him any ideas!

Velvet smoking jacket?

For sure the originals were much better, tuned more as well. Every model after them had varying methods of restrictions. Some had missing boost bottles, reed switches in the clocks, powervalve cables the wrong way round. One year even has a CDI so restrictive it retards the powervalve at something silly like 8500rpm. And then there were the baffles and sound insulation in the expansion pipes! More work involved in getting rid of all that lot

Earthing one cable to the frame? Sounds pretty easy to me.

It's not the most powerful no, however its definitely the easiest to derestrict. Once you've earthed the powervalve you're 95% there. Save a few kg's with an after market exhaust and that should really do it. But you're right about the CDI, that's the biggest restriction after that. And if you already have the big bore kit, I'd say it's definitely the next step if you're keeping the bike long term. Just get it dyno'd and mapped correctly

I just use copper slip Carlube Xcg500 Multi-Purpose Grease, Copper https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004HPER6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lWFHzbD7DTCAZ

Plus gas is a good penetrant. Or WD40. Another option is try and weld a nut onto the sheared bolt and use that to wind it out, but that depends if you have access to a welder

Good choice. Make sure you have some decent rubber on it - mine used to spin the back wheel all the time

Your choice will be very limited. I would recommend the Avon roadriders. I use them on my DT and they're fine Also shouldn't your front size be 120/70/17?

Heat the block around the bolt. Gently with a heat gun, no blowtorches! Then get a good set of mole grips on it and try and work it back and forth. Some good penetrating oil might also help. Patience is key here!

Thats the problem with them, they control everything. You get 3 base maps to start with when you buy one, but that doesn't they're going to work. Advance/retard ignition timing, power valve etc. You can increase the rev limit too. Dangerous if you don't have the facility to set it up

You think that was the cause John? Or was it running lean anyway? Like I said earlier it all comes down to how you program it, you'd need a Dyno really and a bike that's alright set up perfectly to give a good base to start from

Quite a few people swear by them on the DT forum. All well and good as long as you know what you're doing programming wise etc

Nothing like a big trip to give you confidence

Important question to ask is how regularly were the linkage and bearings serviced?

You'll be fine tommo! If my aprilia with 70k on it managed an average of 190 miles a day your bike can!

I know the feeling mate, but you have to remember that virtually anything you forget you can get abroad!

Mines doing the same, been like it a while now. Since the last forum update I think

Sounds like a plan

Booked the Friday off work earlier, so I can do the whole weekend this year!

Been there with different testers and headlight alignment. I ended up finding another garage like you had to.

Cheers for that mate, you can only view day 1 of the itinerary for free on the official site

I'll see what the weather's looking like closer to the time. I could always head to europe